Is AS installing multi stage chargers in newer trailers?

[DTOURS]

Well it arrived to day...well this evening....gonna tackle the install tomorrow and read, review and read again the instructions. So out with the parallex 7355 and in with the 4655 VL. 😊

Randy said I don't have to change the board cause I have the Wizard Pendant. So should go pretty fast. Not sure where I plug the pendant in since the stock board won't have the plug in socket unless I plug it in some where's else. No instructions for that part. Maybe I just missed it...I'll review the instructions again. Yahoo.

[DTOURS]

Hmm...pix in instructions does not appear to be the same as my set up. My board has 15 dc fuse slots, with only 12 being used. the new board PD4655vl has 12. I was told I didn't have to change board if I bought the Wizard Pendant, which I did. But I don't see a plug in for the pendant on the Parallex 7355 board...nor do I see where I plug the 4 wire (white, black, red and yellow) into on the Parallex board. If I install the PD4655VL there is only one 4 pin plug just under the Wizard button on the PD board. Kinda
confused here. Called Randy as BC, waiting and waiting on his return call.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

[DTOURS]

OK, also discovered the OEM Parallex 7355 dc board mounts with 2 screws 2 inches apart. The PD4655 board mounting holes are 5 inches apart. Any insights....?

[DTOURS]

Embarrassed...it appears I am over thinking this. Randy confirmed I don't need to change out the board. The 4 strand wire (black,white,yellow, red) is only used if your changing boards and the Wizard plugs into the converter not the board....jeez louise....gonna go have another cup of coffee. Looks like I am back on track. Sorry for the panic...about all I know about electronic I learned from movies..."don't cut the blue wire"....BOOM! LOL😎

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by tjdonahoe

Right on...I like my stock one, no problems, batteries take a small amount of water every summer.....and are 5 years old..?.

Well, count your blessings there; many of us have had issues caused by the stock converters overcharging the batteries. Unfortunate but reality. My 2014 went thru a set of Interstate batteries in 2 months while leaving it plugged in during summer months, when not in use. Batteries developed bad cells and also boiled out water in at least one cell I noticed, before Interstate replaced. Next 2 years, no issues...lucky me??

With new my 2017 28'model and my friends 2017 23' models this summer, both had same issue within first 2 months; we both ended up replacing the converters after replacing the batteries, with AS technical support urging us to make the switch to be safe. No problems since.

Uncle Bob insists the OEM converters were "multi-stage"; the AS dealers I talked with including factory, called them "single stage" converters. Technically, Uncle Bob is correct as the specs say they were 3 stage converters; confusion I think is caused by the way those older converters operate; they are full on at 13.6V when plugged in and they did not have a "drop down" smart-sensor technology, that puts it in to "tender mode" sensing your battery state, like the newer units offer from Boondocker or Parallel Dynamics, and others offer. This also includes the new WFCO model's AS is installing in the 2018's. If the old converters were OK, why did they switch, you might ask...

After digesting a lot of great information, and learning quite a bit here on the forum, talking with the "experts" from the AS dealers and factory on this topic, I am happy I made the switch. The battery temperature sensor would be a good addition, but I am fine with the Boondocker converter I installed; all is working fine. Here is a picture of the install I posted earlier, if you were interested; if you need more detailed photos, let me know.

[DTOURS]

OK, here we go...i thought I had a Parallex 7355 based on my AS owners manual. So I ordered a PD4655VL. I actuall have a Parallex 5355. So does anyone know if my PD4655VL will still work? I've wired it up according to the instructions for an up grade on a Parallex 7355.

Haven't turned on the juice yet....thinking about putting the PD4655VL in the Parallex box so I have something to mount my DC fuse block to. I left a msg for Randy at BC, but its Saturday...so will have to wait tell Monday for his response...anyone out there in the know? Thanks

[chugchug]

What converters are they supposed to have in the new 2018? My 25FB 2018 came with WFCO 8955 (which is not on their website anymore). The spec says they are 3 stage, but all I see is 13.6V. I would think it is defective, but then so many people report seeing the same problem.

My solution is to install solar and then never to plug-in when the trailer is not in use. We usually boondock.

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by chugchug

What converters are they supposed to have in the new 2018? My 25FB 2018 came with WFCO 8955 (which is not on their website anymore). The spec says they are 3 stage, but all I see is 13.6V. I would think it is defective, but then so many people report seeing the same problem.

My solution is to install solar and then never to plug-in when the trailer is not in use. We usually boondock.

That is likely all you will ever see. I've argued with them for a few years and get nowhere. They have the OEM market believing they will boost but haven't been able to convince me, at least where I can duplicate it. My phone rings off the hook all day about them. It's just the way it is. They are the cheapest on the market so I understand why Airstream made the move but kinda seems like out of the pot and into the fire to me.

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by chugchug

... but all I see is 13.6V. I would think it is defective, but then so many people report seeing the same problem. ...

That is the voltage that the converter (not the charger) is putting out to the DC circuits of the trailer when on shore power. When hooked up you can run the trailer DC items with the 'Use/Store' switch in 'Store' and no current will flow to the batteries, but your volt meter will still show 13.6 volts. When not hooked up the voltmeter will show you your house battery SOC (State of Charge). 12.6+ volts is fully charged.

[glcmranger]

Suggest reading up on the Forum threads on the PD 4655v installations. There is a picture posted on where to plug in the pendent.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Here we go yet again ...

Stage One: Current limited charge (30 or 50A depending on model)

Stage Two: Voltage limited charge at 13.6 to 13.7V

Stage Three: Voltage limited charge at 13.2 V

That's how they count the stages, that's how they get to "multi stage". The conversion from stage two to stage three requires 48 hours at zero drain (< 1A ??? ) from the battery.

So is it multi stage? Sure it is. Does it work as advertised ? Take it below 1/2A for a week and see what happens.

It's not a multi stage vs single stage issue. The issue is elsewhere .....

Bob

[ronderful]

Give up Bob. As my grandmother would say you can't get blood from a turnip. Sounds wise if don't think about it too hard.

[james.mileur]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Here we go yet again ...

Stage One: Current limited charge (30 or 50A depending on model)

Stage Two: Voltage limited charge at 13.6 to 13.7V

Stage Three: Voltage limited charge at 13.2 V

That's how they count the stages, that's how they get to "multi stage". The conversion from stage two to stage three requires 48 hours at zero drain (< 1A ??? ) from the battery.

So is it multi stage? Sure it is. Does it work as advertised ? Take it below 1/2A for a week and see what happens.

It's not a multi stage vs single stage issue. The issue is elsewhere .....

Bob

I often wonder if possibly an occasional defective boiled battery is blamed on the charger and when both are changed, the charger gets blamed?

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by DTOURS

OK, here we go...i thought I had a Parallex 7355 based on my AS owners manual. So I ordered a PD4655VL. I actuall have a Parallex 5355. So does anyone know if my PD4655VL will still work? I've wired it up according to the instructions for an up grade on a Parallex 7355.

Haven't turned on the juice yet....thinking about putting the PD4655VL in the Parallex box so I have something to mount my DC fuse block to. I left a msg for Randy at BC, but its Saturday...so will have to wait tell Monday for his response...anyone out there in the know? Thanks

While I got the Boondocker from these folks, I was looking at your new PD7355VL on their website.
http://www.bestconverter.com/PD-4655...l#.WluMRGeWzIU

Looks to me like the specs are fine. It looks like they have a chassis (shown in picture) for it; not sure if it will work in the AS mounting area?

I modified the original chassis from the Paralex in my unit, to fit my Boondocker replacement, as shown in my pictures above. You may want to see if your will fit inside that footprint and try the same, so your mounting holes will line up. Since your not going to use the old converter anyway, I would drill out the top cover "weld joints" like I did, remove the circuit board inside, and mount your new Parallel Dynamics inside if it is smaller, like my Boondocker was. I did modify/enlarge the air hole where the fan was mounted with a portable saber saw(very easy cut), just for more air circulation as my Boondocker fan was positioned in same area facing that hole. Remember to take pictures along the way and share...Randy will also post if you send to them.

[james.mileur]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

That's how they count the stages, that's how they get to "multi stage". The conversion from stage two to stage three requires 48 hours at zero drain (< 1A ??? ) from the battery.

So is it multi stage? Sure it is. Does it work as advertised ? Take it below 1/2A for a week and see what happens.

Bob

Will parasitic loads be that low?

Where's a good strip chart recorder\printer when you need one?

[ronderful]

I bet there is an app for that. 😃

[ronderful]

I intend to install a Bogart Engineering monitor along with the solar controller so I can more effectively monitor state of charge of the AGM house batteries. There is no substitute for understanding state of charge. You can not spend enough money on "upgrades" to substitute for it. But human nature being what it is people want an easy fix and something or someone to blame for their ignorance.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by james.mileur

I often wonder if possibly an occasional defective boiled battery is blamed on the charger and when both are changed, the charger gets blamed?

Sure! Over the past few years, as this topic comes up ALOT, I have talked with both AS service guys and Interstate regarding dead batteries. new Battery can boil out pretty quickly leading to dead cells if converter/charger is not capable of reading state and going into tender mode. I was surprised how quickly this can happen, and to me, this explains why my/your shinny new AS works fine for a few days, then you leave plugged in, and the battery will not charge past 12.4 nor will it maintain charge very long when just using lighting in your AS. The new AS's have the WFCO models in them as of 2018'. It is still only a 3 stage converter. Here is the 4 stage sequence controlled by the "smart charge" technology included in the Parallel Dynamics and Boondocker converters, many of us have switched to:
1) BOOST Mode 14.4 Volts - Rapidly brings RV battery up to 90% of full charge.

2) NORMAL Mode 13.6 Volts - Safely completes the charge.

3) STORAGE Mode 13.2 Volts - Maintains charge with minimal gassing or water loss.

4) DESULFATION Mode 14.4 Volts every 21 hours for a period of 15 minutes to prevent battery stratification.
More importantly, below is what the smart charging technology can do for you so you can leave plugged in and not worry about monitoring your battery's all the time...unless you enjoy watching your batteries.

The Charge Wizard is a microprocessor-controlled device designed to operate with all Inteli-Power Converters. It constantly monitors the RV battery, then automatically adjusts the converter output voltage based on its charge status. The Charge Wizard has four (4) operating Modes (BOOST, NORMAL, STORAGE AND DESULFATION/EQUALIZE). Each Mode is automatically selected by the microprocessor and ensures a fast yet safe recharge for your RV batteries.

Just a disclaimer....I don't work for any of these guys, I don't care if you switch or not. Just sharing my limited education over the years with my experience...Uncle Bob and others surely have their own expert opinions, which I respect and also learn from....time to time... :-)

[ronderful]

Does it tell you when you discharged the battery bank to the point of damaging them permanently? Does it keep you from inadvertently undercharging or over charging them because of battery temperature? (the answer is no) I repeat : knowing state of charge is absolutely essential.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by ronderful

Does it tell you when you discharged the battery bank to the point of damaging them permanently? Does it keep you from inadvertently undercharging or over charging them because of battery temperature? (the answer is no) I repeat : knowing state of charge is absolutely essential.

I am assuming your reply is directed at my post? Guess you're not comfortable with letting the newer technology manage and maintain your batteries. That's fine. Adding a battery temperature gauge is not a bad idea, from listening to Uncle Bob and others on the value of that extra device and added expense. But I think the newer 4 stage converters offer a great replacement option. Ifeel a lot better knowing my new 4 stage converter has the smart charging technology built in to properly maintain my batteries when properly serviced with water. You can stay awake at night and think of all kinds of things that will go wrong, but I am sleeping fine now that I have switched out the converter and have new batteries.

PS-I also check the air pressure in my tires each trip!