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Old 11-14-2008, 12:48 PM   #1
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Intel not charging battery

I put in a new 30 amp intell converter in my 73 overlander. I wired it to the univolt fuse planel . It works great except that when I am using electicity when boon docking the battery is not charging. The battery is my second one in 6 months. I can charge the battery with a car battery charger. the converter is not letting me charge the battery. I wired it from the different diagrams and examples from this forum. I am not very knowledgabel about electricity so reading and understanding this type of science confuses me. Boondocking I really do not need the battery but I will be dry camping.

Brian
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Old 11-14-2008, 02:37 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
I put in a new 30 amp intell converter in my 73 overlander. I wired it to the univolt fuse planel . It works great except that when I am using electicity when boon docking the battery is not charging. The battery is my second one in 6 months. I can charge the battery with a car battery charger. the converter is not letting me charge the battery. I wired it from the different diagrams and examples from this forum. I am not very knowledgabel about electricity so reading and understanding this type of science confuses me. Boondocking I really do not need the battery but I will be dry camping.

Brian
Brain, I'd like to help you, but quite honestly, your statements don't make sence to me.

Quote:
It works great except that when I am using electicity when boon docking the battery is not charging.
Normally, there is not AC power available while boondocking, and so the battery does not charge when boondocking.

Quote:
Boondocking I really do not need the battery but I will be dry camping.
Boondocking, or dry camping is when you do need the battery.

I would suggest one simple test to determine if your converter is wired in properly and working....with the AC cord plugged into shore power, put a volt meter accross the terminals of the battery and see what voltage you have. If the converter is wired in properly, the battery is somewhat charged, and the converter is working, you should have 13.8 volts DC, or more, at the battery. If the voltage is 12.6, or less, the converter is either not working, or not wired in properly. Do this test with all lights and appliances off.
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:05 PM   #3
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SteveH...you're right on there about testing to see if the converter/charger is working properly...

I like to advise people to get a cheap digital volt/multimeter - they are less than $10 at harbor Freight, etc - a handy tool for checking out electrical gremlins...

Anyway, with the AC power to the trailer OFF, check the DC voltage directly at the battery terminals. Note the reading on the meter.

Plug in the AC power to the trailer, assure that the circuit breaker for the AC circuit that powers the converter/charger is ON and it's powered up if there is a switch on the unit itself.

Recheck the voltage directly at the battery terminals to see if the DC voltage is elevated to recharge levels, as you have mentioned above to about 13.8 volts - which then indicates the converter/charger is working properly.

If the voltage remains the same as in the first reading, you don't have DC continuity from the Converter/Charger to the batteries...you'll have to trace the entire circuit starting at the Converter/charger, through the fuse distribution panel, to the wires to the batteries themselves, through any other disconnect plugs, etc...you can use your new multimeter to check the voltage at each step along the way till you find the OPEN in the circuit.

Also...the older AS's have large fuses for both the POS and NEG leads from the batteries into the fuse distribution panel - remove the fuses to see if they are still good - of course if the trailer is not hooked to AC power, and one of the fuses is bad, there would not be any 12 volt stuff working in the trailer...

Brian, it sounds like you need someone knowledgeable in RV electronics to take a look at your installation...you might have other issues in your older AS...good luck.
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:34 PM   #4
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Brian, good advise so far from the guys. If you want, I can come take a look at it. The only hitch is that it will be Thanksgiving week before I can get up there.

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Old 11-15-2008, 05:19 AM   #5
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Jim

That would be great if you could come up to Loganville. Lets plan on the christmas holidays. I will be with my family over thanksgiving. I would like to have the opportunity to check out your overlander.

I am hopefully going to take my trailer to Stone Mountain today. I am watching the weather.

Brian
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Old 11-15-2008, 05:22 AM   #6
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Guys:

You are correct when you say it does not make sense. Electricity is something I do not understand except it can kill you if you are not careful. I will try your suggestions.

I guess I don't understand all the terms for camping. I think it would be neat if somebody would put a RV camping quiz on the forums for fun. I don't think I would pass the first time.

Brian
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Old 11-15-2008, 03:00 PM   #7
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Brian,
Good advice above, especially having a voltmeter. They are cheap for what you need on the 12 side.
I usually start at the source (your converter) but it really doesn't matter as long as you eventually get there. The nominal output is 13.6 but there is a manufacture .3 volt tolerance. If you see a significant difference between the converter and battery, it could be that its charging and they won't match until you get to about 80% charge. This of course assumes you are plugged into shore power.
I would disconnect the battery and place the volt meter right on the Pos and Neg output lugs of the converter. They usually either work or don't so I doubt you will see anything other than 13.6 or 0 with the battery disconnected.
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Old 11-17-2008, 01:56 PM   #8
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Brian, does the battery charge when the trailer is plugged in?
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Old 11-18-2008, 11:55 AM   #9
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No it does not. I am going to take one of the suggestions above and take off the battery terminals. plug in the converter and see if I am getting the amps coming through the positive cable.

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Old 11-18-2008, 12:14 PM   #10
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Brian,
If you're getting volts, you're getting amps. The reason I bring that up is because the amps could vary from 30 down to virtually nothing depending on the state of charge of your battery so don't be alarmed if you don't see 30 amps. As long as you see 13.6 volts with the battery disconnected, its working.
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Old 11-22-2008, 03:48 PM   #11
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I am very greatful for Jim who took time out of his day to over to my house and check my electical. He is Jim and Susan a few threads above this one. Jim found a short in my AC which will not allow me to have electricity to the outside recepticle. Not a bit deal I don't need it. He also found out that I do not have power going to my scare light ( I will work on that one).

There is a light on my radio that never goes off and might be the culprit for battery drainage. I have a question and that is when I installed the new Intel converter I only had two wires ( + - ). I connected them with no problem. univolt had three wires and one of those wires went to the AC power up connection for the fuse panel to indicate AC was hooked up. I never attached the gray wire back to the fuse panel post because their was not a wire coming out of the Intel to connect to the other side. I have read just leave it off and tape up the end. Is what I read correct?

I never realized that light was there until the gray wire touched the side of my intel power reciptical I installed and lit the light up on the pane. I move the wire off of the receptical and it went off.

Lothlorian

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