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07-18-2006, 10:16 AM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1974 23' Safari
Richmond
, Missouri
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 6
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Installing an Intellipower 9200
Help! I have a 74 Land Yacht. My Univolt died so I removed it (somebody said that was the hard part) and am now the proud owner of an Intelipower 9200 which is sitting on my breakfast bar. Can anyone tell me in really simple terms how to install it? I was hoping it would be pretty obvious, but for my skills (or lack of) it itsn't. I kept the old univolt and fuse panel intact till I received its replacement, so I still have everything, I just don't know what to do with it. Thanks for reading!
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07-18-2006, 10:28 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1973 23' Safari
1977 23' Safari
2018 25' Flying Cloud
Palmer Lake
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,092
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Piece of cake.
You'll find it's only a two-wire installation. Some of the old Univolts had a third wire that powered a "shore power connected" light. You can replace that function with a small 12V wall transformer typically used for portable electronic gear--I'm sure you've seen same and probably have several just lying around.
OK, 9200. Just run a wire (#10 works fine, you don't need 00 automobile starter wire--if you have a 60 map converter, you might want to use #8) from the positive to the fuze block positive and ditto for negative. The fuzing logic should be exactly the same as it was for the Univolt and should still be hooked up on your existing fuze block or as in-lead fuzes (sometimes found in the battery leads). You should still get the same indications on your control panel for volts and amps.
If your battery is still hooked up, you can double check the positive terminal for the fuze block with a voltmeter or trace the connection to the battery terminal and back to the battery. The positives are connected in parallel.
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07-18-2006, 10:49 AM
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#3
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 29348
Can anyone tell me in really simple terms how to install it?
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Slide the unit into place, and connect the wires.
Okay, maybe that was too simple... It will need to be plugged into 120 volts, that is easy, just plug it in. Then, you should have the outputs, they will need to be hooked into your old fuse panel so it can charge the battery, and power the 12v items in your coach. That is a little harder, but not too bad. The only thing that is tough is hooking something up so the charge indicator light will work.But, the good news is several people have tackled that problem here on the forums, and a search for "charge indicator" should net you the answer to that as well. IIRC, you hooked up a transformer to the second outlet where you plug in the intellipower, and used the transformer to power the light on the monitor panel.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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07-18-2006, 01:21 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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You need to also attach a ground wire from the Intelipower chassis to the Airstream frame or body. This is separate from the negative 12V ground wire.
Did you not recieve an installation booklet with your unit?
Here is the chassis ground:
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07-18-2006, 03:28 PM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
1974 23' Safari
Richmond
, Missouri
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 6
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Still confused on 9200 installation
Thanks for your speedy replies, but I'm still confused. I don't have any place to "plug it in." I'm capable of puting on a female electrical plug, but I'm not sure which wires to use. There are three wires coming out of a hose looking thing that I am assuming is the other end of the electrical plug-in that comes out of the rear bumper. One is bare copper. I'm assuming that is the ground wire. Is that where I "plug it in?"
Also, there are three connections on the back of my fuse panel. The top one has one wire running back to the old univolt. I can handle that one, but how do I know if it is + or -? They are not labeled. Then almost directly below that connection is another one that has two wires attatached to it and they both go to the same place on one of the fins of the univolt. Can I make them one wire? And how do I know + or -? There is a third connection level with the second and it has a single wire attatched to the fins also. It is a smaller connection and a smaller diameter wire, so I'm assuming it's the ground that you told me about.
I really appreciate any and all help. I'm not ready to give up, with everyone's help I know I can do this. Thanks again! And yeah, I did not get an installation booklet.
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07-18-2006, 03:48 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1973 23' Safari
1977 23' Safari
2018 25' Flying Cloud
Palmer Lake
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,092
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your 9200 didn't come with a male cord and plug for 110V? There ought to be a female (regular house receptical) 110V wall socket right near where your univolt was sitting.
From your description, you've got too many wires "connected to the fins" of your Univolt. Are you sure they are electrically connected, or are they just passing through a hole in the cooling fins and are really conneced inside the univolt case?
The way to tell if the terminal on your fuze block is plus is trace the positive battery wire and its connection to the fuze block. You should find a main screw terminal on the fuze block that is empty and is connected to paths that connect to that positive wire from the battery. Same for the negative.
Can you post a photo of your fuze block?
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07-18-2006, 06:41 PM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member
1974 23' Safari
Richmond
, Missouri
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 6
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Still confused on 9200 install
I'm not smart enuf to install the 9200 and you're asking me to send pictures?
I'll try. My 9200 did come with a male plug, but there is no female receptacle anywhere near the location of the previously installed univolt. I have looked again since your last note. It ain't there. I disconnected a lot wires when I removed the univolt, but I didn't unplug anything. But I think I have that part figured out. I can install a female plug for it and I think I know which wires to use. I am going to try and send 2 pictures of the back of my fuse panel and the "fins" on my old univolt. The wires from what I now believe is the negative plug are definitely soldered to the fins. I hope the pics go through. Even if they don't, you have already helped me. Thanks.
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07-18-2006, 06:55 PM
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#8
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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The univolt in my '71 was also hardwired on the AC side. When I replaced it with my Statpower, it had a hard wire connection for the AC so it was a wash.
For you just get a metal single outlet box from a hardware store and an outlet and cover plate. Mount the box in a convinent place and wire up the outlet. Now you have a dedicated box for your new intellipower.
The output of your intellipower will be a red 12vdc+ lead and and black ground. The 12v+ wire should go to the fuse panel (if is was not built into the univolt like mine was. If it was see this link). Just look for the common connection of all the fuses. In other words, all of the fuses will be connected electrically together on one side, thats the power feed. The other side of the fuses will go to the different circuits in the trailer.
The black wire from the intellipower will go to the common ground. In an airstream these are usually white wires. They should already be bundled to a common point. Look for a screw or bolt with all the wires running to the chassis. Tie the ground wire from the intellipower there.
The ouput of the intellipower should be fused, probably around 40 amps. And the output of the battery should be fused about 40 amps. If your using the original fuse panel that should already be taken care of.
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05-19-2007, 08:43 AM
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#9
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Naysayer
1968 24' Tradewind
Russellville
, earth
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
The univolt in my '71 was also hardwired on the AC side. ..........
For you just get a metal single outlet box from a hardware store and an outlet and cover plate. Mount the box in a convinent place and wire up the outlet. Now you have a dedicated box for your new intellipower.
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I have the same issue and I want to be certian I have this straight. Do I need some special RV grade outlet box? Can I just add a plug at the end of the line I am cutting without adding a box?
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05-19-2007, 10:56 PM
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#10
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen Disarray
I have the same issue and I want to be certian I have this straight. Do I need some special RV grade outlet box? Can I just add a plug at the end of the line I am cutting without adding a box?
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If you mean a connector like you would use to repair an extension cord or something, I don't see why it would not work. Just make sure its properly grounded.
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05-20-2007, 07:37 AM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
1978 31' Excella 500
Santa Maria
, California
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen Disarray
I have the same issue and I want to be certian I have this straight. Do I need some special RV grade outlet box? Can I just add a plug at the end of the line I am cutting without adding a box?
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Rodney
I am assuming that the 110v line that the univolt was connected to is solid core wire. If so, I would not attach a female extension cord plug to it. (if it is multi strand wire, it’s probably OK) If it is solid core, I would buy a duplex box (metal or plastic, I don’t know what the RV code requires), a good duplex receptacle (cheep ones, the plug will fall out) and a cover plate. Mount the box close to where your converter is, keeping in mind that you may want to have access to the second receptacle . Remember, for AC wiring, Black to Brass, White to Silver and Ground to Green. Good luck on your installation.
“Mac”
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05-20-2007, 07:42 AM
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#12
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Naysayer
1968 24' Tradewind
Russellville
, earth
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7xp
Rodney
I am assuming that the 110v line that the univolt was connected to is solid core wire. If so, I would not attach a female extension cord plug to it. (if it is multi strand wire, it’s probably OK) If it is solid core, I would buy a duplex box (metal or plastic, I don’t know what the RV code requires), a good duplex receptacle (cheep ones, the plug will fall out) and a cover plate. Mount the box close to where your converter is, keeping in mind that you may want to have access to the second receptacle . Remember, for AC wiring, Black to Brass, White to Silver and Ground to Green. Good luck on your installation.
“Mac”
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Wish I had seen this yesterday before I added a plug....
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05-20-2007, 03:55 PM
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#13
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen Disarray
Wish I had seen this yesterday before I added a plug....
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Well... that is what I said on post 8 from last year...
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05-20-2007, 05:00 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Currently Looking...
Great Lake State
, .
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 29348
I'm not smart enuf to install the 9200 and you're asking me to send pictures?
I'll try. My 9200 did come with a male plug, but there is no female receptacle anywhere near the location of the previously installed univolt. I have looked again since your last note. It ain't there. I disconnected a lot wires when I removed the univolt, but I didn't unplug anything. But I think I have that part figured out. I can install a female plug for it and I think I know which wires to use. I am going to try and send 2 pictures of the back of my fuse panel and the "fins" on my old univolt. The wires from what I now believe is the negative plug are definitely soldered to the fins. I hope the pics go through. Even if they don't, you have already helped me. Thanks.
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This is how I installed my Intelli-power 9245 45 amp into a 65 Caravel, hope it helps....... http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...mps-26482.html
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06-17-2007, 06:40 PM
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#15
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Arlington Hts
, Illinois
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 37
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Another old Univolt
I previously replaced a Univolt with an Intellipower in a '74 Overlander with no problems, but things seem less clear now that I plan to do the same thing in my 1964 Globetrotter (see attached pic) despite having read everything I can find, including the manual.
Can someone tell me which side is the 12V and which is 120, the "sides" being the wires that go into the wall and the wires that go to the spaghetti behind the shore power switch?
The manual refers to 12V and 17V circuits, but I don't know what might use or have used 17V...the ceiling vent fan maybe?
There are two additional disconnected wires that disappear into the wall. Might these be the former 17V leads?
Thanks,
...Ray
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06-17-2007, 09:09 PM
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#16
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koltys
The manual refers to 12V and 17V circuits, but I don't know what might use or have used 17V...the ceiling vent fan maybe?
There are two additional disconnected wires that disappear into the wall. Might these be the former 17V leads?
Thanks,
...Ray
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Way back when, shore power was sometimes referred to as 117 volts. So, you could have 12 volt and 117 volt, AFAIK there is no 17 volt needed or supplied.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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06-17-2007, 09:48 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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I think you are right about the ceiling fans. The fans ran off an ac tap on the old converters that put out 17Vac.
RMS of 17Vac = 12Vdc.
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