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Old 10-11-2014, 08:45 PM   #15
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Why is this 555 converter like seemingly 4x heavier? I guess the box in part - did the 60 unit deck mount with box to enclose seem less heavy? If so why - generally curious

Noticed that this 555 box is sealed up with like rivets or something - no way to take it out of that box hardly it seems - I wonder how much dust accumulates in there with the fan blowing air in there


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Old 10-12-2014, 06:31 AM   #16
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The unit I removed weighed in at 4.4 kg or about 9 lbs 11 oz. with short wire leads still attached. The shipping weight on the new unit is 7 lbs. I have no idea why the old one is heavier, but the box is larger, has brackets on each side used to mount it to the cabinet, and has the mounting points for the fuse block.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:25 AM   #17
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I picked up some materials - channeling as a base for the unit and the flashing type piece as my board mount (not as nice looking but will do fine
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Almost done



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Old 10-12-2014, 01:05 PM   #18
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I have not yet attached all to the floor yet and am thinking about some kinda tacky 3m type a deal I could use to secure everything that I could fairly easily remove when needed

It may be really annoying to get back in there to secure the back parts to the floor - still contemplating that...

Not to all thinking about doing this you will need various tools to do this

A drill - bits - a hack saw - screw drivers, nut drivers perhaps - tape measure - pencil....

Note also that this pm4b-55 unit if you go that route - it has two holes to drill I to the floor ready on the one side of the unit - but not on other side - there is a metal ran on other side that I used to put a screw through bit no place for the other - no biggie - I plan on a similar 3m product for that 4th open point if attachment (if that makes sense) to secure it.

Note - I'm not super super handy but this ain't so bad - I'm almost there


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Old 10-12-2014, 01:09 PM   #19
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The green ground wire is the shortest wire - all the others appear to be plenty long for the install

Green wire on this unit is doable but wish it was longer to give greater flexibility - guess that would be easy to extend....


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Old 10-14-2014, 12:03 AM   #20
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It is the shortest and will be longer on the next run. All of the others should be plenty long. I've already told our manufacture it needs to be longer but extending it is fine and simple enough to do. Actually is should reach but not much slack I know. Let me know if it didn't. Easy fix.
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Old 10-14-2014, 05:32 AM   #21
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Mine is done - I think - I indeed up using 3m double sided tape to secure it to the floor - these can be removed as well by pulling a tab and stretching them

I still need to get out there and see how it will hold but it looks like it will do the job fine and was much easier to secure than screwing down at 4 corners which seemed near impossible


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Old 10-14-2014, 09:28 PM   #22
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Installing a 4-stage converter/charger in your new Airstream

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Mine is done - I think - I indeed up using 3m double sided tape to secure it to the floor - these can be removed as well by pulling a tab and stretching them

I still need to get out there and see how it will hold but it looks like it will do the job fine and was much easier to secure than screwing down at 4 corners which seemed near impossible


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Did you install a 4 stage converter / charger?

Never mind I found the thread.


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Old 10-14-2014, 09:33 PM   #23
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Did you install a 4 stage converter / charger?

Never mind I found the thread.


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Yes - a powermax boondocker to replace my parallax
555 unit




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Old 10-18-2014, 07:04 AM   #24
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Randy,
On your Lexan bracket, first I assume you used Lexan for the insulative properties? Second, did you heat and bend the Lexan yourself or did you have someone do that for you?

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Old 10-18-2014, 10:34 AM   #25
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Randy,
On your Lexan bracket, first I assume you used Lexan for the insulative properties? Second, did you heat and bend the Lexan yourself or did you have someone do that for you?

Rich
Hi Rich,
Actually that was Msmoto that did that installation on her 555 and she chose to use Lexan to mount the fuse board to. There is nothing wrong with that and I think I mentioned above or on one of the other threads they you can also use a piece of sheet metal bent in an L shape. Some have even used a piece of wood or even mounted it direct to the side of the converter.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:24 AM   #26
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Re: Lexan bending. Heated with a Wagner HT3500 heat gun set at 950 degrees using a flare tip, both sides while Lexan is held in wooden vice jaws. It is important to heat slowly moving the gun all the time. If heated too fast it will bubble, not what one wants. I estimate it takes about a minute to heat switching back and forth on each side, the the Lexan can be seen to become "blurry" and it bends easily. Remove all heat, hold in place until cool....maybe 30 seconds.


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Old 11-12-2014, 10:45 PM   #27
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Has anyone replaced the entire Parallax system with something else that is better? Since the 7300 series as an example causes all these problems and many are moving to a Progressive Dynamics converter, as an example, what would be the pros/cons of switching to something like the Inteli-Power Mighty Mini Power Center from that company? I just saw that one after a google search not knowing if it is necessarily better. The wire feed to the existing distribution box appears to have some slack so it should be just like replacing the circuit box in a house, just priced higher.
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:22 PM   #28
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That would actually be better if you want a whole new panel but it will be smaller and you will need to do some cabinetry work. There are units that have the same cut-out that you have that are 3 or 4 stage that would be a better option.
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