Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-06-2019, 10:01 PM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
1973 27' Overlander
EVERYWHERE , California
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 5
I need help! (picture included)

I have a 73' airstream this is my current setup. Shore power does not charge the battery. I bought new a deep cycle marine battery. My inside lights worked for a while until I realized the battery wasn't being charged. Long story short, are both of these replaceable by one device? I also have a couple solar panels I'd like to make more use of. I'm a total newb and I feel lost when I start researching. You guys have helped me before so I'd figure to throw this out. Thank you in advance. See pictures Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20190507_191144.jpg
Views:	50
Size:	218.8 KB
ID:	342670
__________________

S1CKQU3D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2019, 10:18 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
2012 Avenue Coach
Corpus Christi , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 1,115
Someone will be along who can advise you on how to troubleshoot or offer replacement suggestions. All I can say is be very careful around those electrical components. Always disconnect from 120 volt power source. And even your battery when dealing with the inverter. Be safe, those wires can be dangerous.


Good luck.
__________________

rowiebowie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2019, 11:50 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
wulfraat's Avatar
 
2017 30' International
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,956
Images: 1
Your converter / charger is likely toast. They die, it happens.

You probably need a new one - itís that silver box with the red sticker on the right.
wulfraat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2019, 08:52 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
Belegedhel's Avatar
 
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,576
I would recommend getting out your volt-ohm meter and doing a little troubleshooting before just buying new parts. You are going to have to figure out how this stuff is put together if you intend to replace it anyway, so you might as well start buy drawing yourself a map.

For starters, figure out what you are looking at. You probably have a converter, which takes the 110V AC and changes it into DC current and charges your battery. Are these solar panels you mention already installed on the trailer, or a future project? If already installed, you probably also have a separate device that takes the energy from your solar system and feeds it into your battery. You could also have an inverter (less common), that changes the 12V from your battery back into 110V AC for using household appliances when "off the grid."

But to troubleshoot the very basic "my batteries are not being charged by the converter" issue, you would first wnat to put your meter on the incoming AC line from shore power. If you find 110 V AC there, then go to the connection to the converter (it may just plug into an outlet, or be hardwired to your fuse box), make sure you have 110V AC going to the converter. If so, check the output of the converter (should be 12-14V DC), and then check the leads that go to the battery to make sure you have the same 12-14V DC there. I see a fuse panel in your picture, use the Ohm function on the meter to check continuity on each fuse. Similarly, you might have in-line fuses between the converter and the battery. If you are not getting the voltage you should at the battery, then check the fuses--it could be as simple as a blown fuse.

If the Converter is getting 110V AC, but is not putting out any DC to the battery, then it is likely shot, but make sure there are no on-board fuses on the converter as well.

Now, if you conclude that the converter isn't working, you should figure out what is going on with your solar charge controller (if the panels are already installed on your trailer). If you decide to replace both, then there are modern combined devices that integrate the converter and solar charge controller all into one unit. BestConverter.com is usually a good resource.

Good luck!
Belegedhel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2019, 09:17 AM   #5
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 7,749
Hi

1973 was a *long* time ago. Your trailer may have had a number of owners. Who knows what they did and why they did it. First step is to figure out what wires go where. Battery disconnect switches are a *very* common add on. Who knows where one (or more than one) might have been placed.

The battery hooks to a number of things in the trailer:

1) The break away switch and brakes. This *is* an important thing.

2) The interior lighting and devices (fridge ....) in the trailer

3) The charge wire from the 7 pin connector that goes to the tow vehicle.

4) The inverter (if one has been installed).

5) The converter / charger

Each hookup needs to be verified / traced out / checked. Sorry about that. There just is no way to "trust" things after this many years.

The same process applies to the 120V wiring, but that's a different topic.

Once you have checked where things go, you can reasonably start replacing batteries and seeing if the converter charger still works. They are unlikely to hang in for more than a decade or two. Yours is likely dead. Even if it's not dead, it probably has issues. Time for a replacement.

Solar is a separate issue from the converter / charger. It has its own wiring and its own controller. Sizing everything so it all works together is key. First step is to decide how crazy you want to go ( = is $10,000 a reasonable budget). You can go very large (or very small) with solar.

If all this is getting a bit to overwhelming, find an RV shop and let them go over it for you.

Bob
uncle_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2019, 11:10 AM   #6
New Member
 
1973 Argosy 26
Greeley , Colorado
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 2
I have 1973 Airstream Argosy and just replaced my univolt with the following. It was fairly easy.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	A94A975E-68DB-40D0-904E-A4CA11ACE750.jpg
Views:	25
Size:	143.0 KB
ID:	342689   Click image for larger version

Name:	F3F29E7D-B42E-4368-BF71-61D69632E1EF.jpeg
Views:	19
Size:	256.3 KB
ID:	342690  

EE73Argosy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2019, 10:31 PM   #7
1 Rivet Member
 
1973 27' Overlander
EVERYWHERE , California
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 5
Does this replace the fuse board and the battery charger?
S1CKQU3D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2019, 10:34 PM   #8
1 Rivet Member
 
1973 27' Overlander
EVERYWHERE , California
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 5
First of all I want to say thank you to all of you Its nice to know there's good people out there trying to help each other. Once again I'm a bit lost so I appreciate everyones patience.
S1CKQU3D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2019, 06:16 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,826
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by S1CKQU3D View Post
Does this replace the fuse board and the battery charger?
It replaces the old converter (Univolt).
It does not replace the fuse block. Which is a separate item that may be located in the old converter.
IMHO you should replace the old converter and upgrade the fuse block to a modern blade type.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2019, 07:14 AM   #10
Rivet Master
 
TouringDan's Avatar

 
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg , Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,356
I need help! (picture included)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
It replaces the old converter (Univolt).
It does not replace the fuse block. Which is a separate item that may be located in the old converter.
IMHO you should replace the old converter and upgrade the fuse block to a modern blade type.


I agree with TG Twinkie. Replace your converter so you donít fry your new battery and replace your fuse block.

Since you have solar panels you are half way there. Get yourself a Victron bluetooth solar controller. Itís not hard to hook up.

DanClick image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4094.jpg
Views:	31
Size:	296.1 KB
ID:	342746
TouringDan is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2019, 07:31 AM   #11
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 7,749
Hi

Any time you start dealing with an older trailer, you need to step back a bit.

1) What are your objectives? ( tiny house, go camping a lot, full rebuild ....) What you do will depend a lot on what your goals are.

2) What sort of shape is the *whole* trailer in? Are the floors ok? Has the frame rusted out? Are the axles and brakes in good shape? ........

3) What is your budget? Do you have a lot of time to do all of this DIY? Do you have enough money in the bank to cover what it all will cost?

Back off and make sure that putting *anything* more in makes sense before you start doing this and that.

=====

If you are gong the DIY route on this, there will be a *lot* to learn. Tech's go to school for years to learn some of this stuff. Your RV has a lot of systems in it and they each have a certain body of knowledge associated with them. YouTube is a wonderful way to catch up on this and that. It still does take time to do so. Be *very* sure you are up to speed on the tech involved before you start any part of the project.

Not everybody knows everything. In some cases part of what gets done may be jobbed out to a tech. There's nothing at all wrong with that. It's just part of the budget.

=====

Electrical safety is a big deal. You very much do not want to start a fire in an RV. Getting up to speed on how wiring is done at low voltage ( the 12V side) and how it is done at high voltage (the 120V side) is important. Getting it wrong is not a good idea.

=====

So, step back, take inventory of what's there. List out all that needs to be fixed. Make up a plan of what you are going to do. Think on the plan for a bit. Once you are happy with the entire plan, *then* start rewiring things. It will cost less and be faster if you do it that way.

The alternative is to do a little, patch a little, buy this and buy that. Each step along the way, you likely will rip out part of what you did in the last step. Some of what you bought last time will go on the scrap heap. I've done a lot of projects that way .... do as I say, not as I do

Bob
uncle_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2019, 12:05 PM   #12
1 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Houston , Texas
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 5
Ditto

Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
hi

any time you start dealing with an older trailer, you need to step back a bit.

1) what are your objectives? ( tiny house, go camping a lot, full rebuild ....) what you do will depend a lot on what your goals are.

2) what sort of shape is the *whole* trailer in? Are the floors ok? Has the frame rusted out? Are the axles and brakes in good shape? ........

3) what is your budget? Do you have a lot of time to do all of this diy? Do you have enough money in the bank to cover what it all will cost?

Back off and make sure that putting *anything* more in makes sense before you start doing this and that.

=====

if you are gong the diy route on this, there will be a *lot* to learn. Tech's go to school for years to learn some of this stuff. Your rv has a lot of systems in it and they each have a certain body of knowledge associated with them. Youtube is a wonderful way to catch up on this and that. It still does take time to do so. Be *very* sure you are up to speed on the tech involved before you start any part of the project.

Not everybody knows everything. In some cases part of what gets done may be jobbed out to a tech. There's nothing at all wrong with that. It's just part of the budget.

=====

electrical safety is a big deal. You very much do not want to start a fire in an rv. Getting up to speed on how wiring is done at low voltage ( the 12v side) and how it is done at high voltage (the 120v side) is important. Getting it wrong is not a good idea.

=====

so, step back, take inventory of what's there. List out all that needs to be fixed. Make up a plan of what you are going to do. Think on the plan for a bit. Once you are happy with the entire plan, *then* start rewiring things. It will cost less and be faster if you do it that way.

The alternative is to do a little, patch a little, buy this and buy that. Each step along the way, you likely will rip out part of what you did in the last step. Some of what you bought last time will go on the scrap heap. I've done a lot of projects that way .... Do as i say, not as i do

bob
+1!
__________________

Carbon footp is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Can I tie into me batteries from here? (Picture included) veg hed Generators & Solar Power 5 06-04-2018 07:57 PM
Help needed. Need picture of under sink plumbing. 1972 Sovereign. nickclifford Sinks, Showers & Toilets 4 12-12-2017 06:49 PM
City water pop-off valve? (drips included) empresley Fresh Water Systems 15 02-10-2008 06:12 PM
Two plumbing dillemas, pictures included wacnstac Plumbing - Systems & Fixtures 23 04-14-2006 03:41 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:05 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
×