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Old 01-28-2014, 11:29 PM   #1
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How to know when OLD fuses are done?

Aside from the obvious of something not working inside, how does one know when these old fuses are done (broke/blown) as you can't see into them.
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:33 PM   #2
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Put an ohm meter or continuity tester across it. If you have infinite resistance the fuse is toast. (and not the tasty kind).
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:41 PM   #3
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Thanks Dave will give that a try. And then what are these still available or is this a mute point and should it just be changed out to modern?
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:26 AM   #4
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There still Available

You can still find them. Small hometown hardware, or even ebay.
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:04 AM   #5
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I'm sure it was assumed but remove the fuse to check with an ohm meter. Also they can be checked in place with a test light or volt meter. With the power on there should be the same voltage present on both ends of the fuse. These fuses are also available at Home Depot and Lowes.
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:49 AM   #6
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Thanks Dave will give that a try. And then what are these still available or is this a mute point and should it just be changed out to modern?
It should not go unsaid that they need to be removed before testing for continuity with an ohm meter.
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:52 AM   #7
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If you do not have any of the testers. Which you should. If you have a good ear and it popped it has a sandy noise when you shake it. This is a OLD electrican way of a quick test. They are still ava. at most any big bog hardware stores. You should always have extras so pick up several when in there.
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:23 AM   #8
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While it's true about 'if it's not broke don't fix it", spend a couple bucks and replace them. Technology has improved since the 60's.
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:40 AM   #9
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Thanks everyone for your answers. Post a question late at night and have your answers early in the morning.
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:48 AM   #10
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While an ohm meter will find most blown fuses. It will not find one that has slowly cooked and melted the fuse link. But left a carbon trail.
Testing a fuse under a load is a better test. While not always a convenient method.
Periodic replacement is an inexpensive option. Along with keeping the fuse clips and barrels clean. Lose connections of the wires at the fuse holder creates heat and will cause the clips to become weak.
Upgrading to the more modern type fuse holder is another option.
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:19 PM   #11
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Thanks Dave will give that a try. And then what are these still available or is this a mute point and should it just be changed out to modern?
Those are standard 30 amp cartridge fuses, still in widespread use, and available at any home center or hardware store. They are inexpensive and reliable. If problems arise it may make sense to polish the contact surfaces on the fuse and fuseholder with some emery cloth or 400 grit sandpaper. Identical replacement fuseholders are available from Grainger and electrical distributors and some home centers.

The wires that go through the aluminum slot at the top of the picture should have some sort of protection against being cut by the aluminum.
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:29 PM   #12
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Replace with glass fuses ($.25 a piece)and you'll never again wonder if they are blown or slow arced.
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