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Old 03-15-2016, 07:55 PM   #15
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The selection of the disconnect switch has no bearing on the use for a Battery Tinder. The Tinder would connect directly to the batteries even when the switch is in the disconnect position. Here's an example of one that would work.
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:50 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by beachbouy View Post
What is recommend as a good battery disconnect switch that can be used with a solar battery tinder?
Doesn't the AS have a battery disconnect switch already installed inside the door?
Mine does.
See above schematic for attaching a battery minder.
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Old 03-15-2016, 09:34 PM   #17
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Yes, but there are still a couple of loads that do not pass through the battery disconnect switch. The automatic jack, the propane detector and the braking system come to mind. When everything is working correctly only the propane detector at 70 mA is fairly significant if you're leaving the trailer unattended and without power for an extended period or time. A manual disconnect switch directly at the battery removes all concerns.
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Old 03-15-2016, 09:47 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by beachbouy View Post
What is recommend as a good battery disconnect switch that can be used with a solar battery tinder?
Guest makes several good quality battery disconnect switches.
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Old 03-15-2016, 09:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
Doesn't the AS have a battery disconnect switch already installed inside the door?

Mine does.

See above schematic for attaching a battery minder.

While stored without external power, a battery disconnect switch or solar charger... Dead in less than a week.
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:52 PM   #20
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The several posts above are consistent with my experience and setup:
1. The $5 disconnect switch (I bought mine at NAPA) simply disconnects your batteries from ALL possible phantom drains (brakes, LPG Detector, Powerjack, radio presets, etc.). (2) The solar panel and charger connect DIRECTLY to your battery terminal BEFORE the disconnect switch). Thus, Charging occurs AND no phantom drain occurs.
You cap can probably get by if you simply use the battery disconnect switch. But, as I am concerned about freezing temps this month after dewinterizing, I have my thermostat set to 40F. This may use battery power (if the LPG furnace come on). So I want to recharge daily with the solar panel. I do NOT disconnect the batteries in this instance because they must power the Furnace ignition and blower fan. The solar recharges the batteries the following day. This is a modest cost solution (under $170).
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:12 AM   #21
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Photo of disconnect switch and solar BatteryMinder connections.
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:21 AM   #22
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So why not simply disconnect a lead on the battery to disconnect? What does a battery minder do differently, safer, or better? I too store mine in a storage lot, but take the battery out for long term and top it off at home with a battery charger when needed.
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:55 AM   #23
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So why not simply disconnect a lead on the battery to disconnect? What does a battery minder do differently, safer, or better? I too store mine in a storage lot, but take the battery out for long term and top it off at home with a battery charger when needed.
This is just my opinion, but being able to leave the batteries in the battery box, instead of taking them out and bringing them home, is less work, especially if you have to do it with any frequency. I think the battery disconnect switch is just a convenience - it's not that hard to just disconnect/connect the negative battery cable. The solar battery minder keeps them charged, and helps you avoid battery sulfation for free once you have it.
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