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Old 04-19-2014, 04:51 PM   #15
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I don't know for sure about the negative fuse as it is unusual in my experience to fuse both sides of the battery, but if left in it probably should be the same size as the positive, I.e. 50 amp.

I don't know if you have one near you but west marine and others sell terminal blocks and standoffs that can take multiple big wires. If it were me, and you can't get two #6 wires in the lugs on the fuse panel, I'd get something to use as a junction and run the pd wire, the battery wire, and the fuse panel wires to there.

Examples:

Get two of the four stud versions of this:
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS BusBar 150A | West Marine

Or two of the two stud versions of this:
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS PowerBar 600A | West Marine

Either of these is overkill for your 50 amp system but it gives you an idea of what to look for.

You might could use one of the 3/8 stud versions of this:
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS Dual PowerPost Cable Connectors | West Marine

In any case you will need to crimp lugs on the wires to connect to the terminals.

You really need to go up to #6, regardless, imnsho.

Al
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Old 04-19-2014, 05:28 PM   #16
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Just got back from the electrical supply place.

found 2 blocks to connect 6 ga wires correctly.

Heres what I have:

I dont have a fuse on my battery positive cable,I only have that big 30A fuse on the negative battery cable.Does this fuse need to be bigger than 30A ?
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Old 04-19-2014, 06:19 PM   #17
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I'd replace the30
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Old 04-19-2014, 06:24 PM   #18
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Sorry early send. I'd replace the 30 with a 50. Big you were to put a fuse in the positive it should be close to the battery, at least the plus sir leaving the battery should not pass anything that might chafe it before the fuse. But any short current leaving the plus has to return via the minus so the fuse you have should do it.
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Old 04-19-2014, 06:24 PM   #19
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Big = but if.
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Old 04-21-2014, 04:39 PM   #20
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thanks Al and Missy !
I appreciate the help.
I couldn't find a 50A fuse holder anywhere,so I went to an RV parts place and they had 40A fuses,so I used that in the original holder and now have the neg battery lead fused with a 40A.

Heres what my set-up look like: I haven't tried it yet....
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Old 04-22-2014, 12:10 PM   #21
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That looks good to me. The 40 amp fuse covers the battery only, the 50 covers the trailer circuits.
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2002 Classic 30 Slideout
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:06 PM   #22
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Follow Up:

Hi Guys
I plugged her in 4 days ago and all is well.
I want to thank all who helped !
I really appreciate it.
Just to Follow up:I hope someone who has a 1972ish Airstream can benefit in the future from this thread,as I had a hard time finding anything specific to what I wanted to do which was to upgrade the original blue Univolt charger to a modern Progressive Dynamics 9245 45Amp Charger into a 1972 Ambassador using the original Fuse Block from the Univolt
Heres a pic of where I relocated it to,allowing easy access to the fuses.I may update the fuse block in the future,but its working fine now.
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Old 04-29-2014, 09:06 PM   #23
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A word of caution.
I would not mount the heavy terminal blocks directly on to wood. If the blocks get hot (from a bad connection) it could cause a fire.
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Old 04-29-2014, 09:13 PM   #24
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thanks for the tip !
What do think about adding a piece of Formica plastic laminate under them ?
that would work wouldn't it? Or aluminum?they are aluminum so....
? ? ?
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airline View Post
Hi Guys
I plugged her in 4 days ago and all is well.
I want to thank all who helped !
I really appreciate it.
Just to Follow up:I hope someone who has a 1972ish Airstream can benefit in the future from this thread,as I had a hard time finding anything specific to what I wanted to do which was to upgrade the original blue Univolt charger to a modern Progressive Dynamics 9245 45Amp Charger into a 1972 Ambassador using the original Fuse Block from the Univolt
Heres a pic of where I relocated it to,allowing easy access to the fuses.I may update the fuse block in the future,but its working fine now.
Thanks for the thread. I'm about to do this same exact thing to my '75 overlander. this should really help!
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Old 04-30-2014, 11:22 PM   #26
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Obviously it would require 2 separate pieces of aluminum. I would mount them on stand off's (legs) to prevent any heat transfer to the plywood.
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Old 07-26-2014, 01:32 PM   #27
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I have a 9260 lined up for my '69 Tradewind. Good insights, Thank-you, all.
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Old 07-26-2014, 03:24 PM   #28
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I just did this conversion in a 72 Overlander. The original fuse panel can develop corrosion problems that I describe in the post below. Hope this might give you some ideas on mains "breakers," and fuse block approach. I also always fuse the ground and positive sides to the battery if it's more than 12" from the main bus connections.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...co-122059.html
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