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Old 04-22-2014, 11:10 AM   #21
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That looks good to me. The 40 amp fuse covers the battery only, the 50 covers the trailer circuits.
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:06 PM   #22
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Follow Up:

Hi Guys
I plugged her in 4 days ago and all is well.
I want to thank all who helped !
I really appreciate it.
Just to Follow up:I hope someone who has a 1972ish Airstream can benefit in the future from this thread,as I had a hard time finding anything specific to what I wanted to do which was to upgrade the original blue Univolt charger to a modern Progressive Dynamics 9245 45Amp Charger into a 1972 Ambassador using the original Fuse Block from the Univolt
Heres a pic of where I relocated it to,allowing easy access to the fuses.I may update the fuse block in the future,but its working fine now.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:06 PM   #23
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A word of caution.
I would not mount the heavy terminal blocks directly on to wood. If the blocks get hot (from a bad connection) it could cause a fire.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:13 PM   #24
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thanks for the tip !
What do think about adding a piece of Formica plastic laminate under them ?
that would work wouldn't it? Or aluminum?they are aluminum so....
? ? ?
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:49 PM   #25
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airline View Post
Hi Guys
I plugged her in 4 days ago and all is well.
I want to thank all who helped !
I really appreciate it.
Just to Follow up:I hope someone who has a 1972ish Airstream can benefit in the future from this thread,as I had a hard time finding anything specific to what I wanted to do which was to upgrade the original blue Univolt charger to a modern Progressive Dynamics 9245 45Amp Charger into a 1972 Ambassador using the original Fuse Block from the Univolt
Heres a pic of where I relocated it to,allowing easy access to the fuses.I may update the fuse block in the future,but its working fine now.
Thanks for the thread. I'm about to do this same exact thing to my '75 overlander. this should really help!
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:22 PM   #26
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Obviously it would require 2 separate pieces of aluminum. I would mount them on stand off's (legs) to prevent any heat transfer to the plywood.
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Old 07-26-2014, 12:32 PM   #27
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I have a 9260 lined up for my '69 Tradewind. Good insights, Thank-you, all.
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Old 07-26-2014, 02:24 PM   #28
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I just did this conversion in a 72 Overlander. The original fuse panel can develop corrosion problems that I describe in the post below. Hope this might give you some ideas on mains "breakers," and fuse block approach. I also always fuse the ground and positive sides to the battery if it's more than 12" from the main bus connections.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...co-122059.html
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Old 07-26-2014, 03:56 PM   #29
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Get the whole panel

I changed my 34' Avion triple axle over to 50amp last year. I also used Progressive Dynamics.

Take a look at this. This is what I did. They sell a completely new panel in which you throw out ALL the old stuff and go brand new.

Ultimate All-in-One 240V, 50 Amp AC/DC Power Distribution Panel

Rather than trying to mix and match the new with the old, I just redid it all. The new unit works slick as a whistle. Their "Charge Wizard" thing really does the batteries good.

I realize it's probably too late for you now, but this is a nice solution.

Best of luck,
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Old 01-09-2015, 03:33 PM   #30
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I know this thread is a little bit old but I'll try anyway.

I think I'm going to do this to my '71 Sovereign. I bought the Boondocker and the Parallax FB9 fuse box but I'm having a difficult time hooking up the blue wire. Somewhere on here it said to hook it up to the negative, then I saw hook it up to the positive. It's probably something simple but I would like the ammeter to work and it won't with the Parallax.

When I took the fuse panel off my Univolt IV, the grey wire fuse connector had a wire out of the backside that went deep into the Univolt somewhere. It looks like the Univolt changed in 1972 because mine is a little bit different.

So the question is:

Airline- Where did you attach the other end of the grey wire connection to? If I wired it like yours, I would have a 6" piece of wire out the back of the fuse panel?

Thanks.
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Old 01-09-2015, 04:11 PM   #31
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You need a shunt for the ammeter to work. The Univolts had such a shunt. It looks like a copper bar or plate with connection points on it 2 for the larger wire, 2 for the smaller wire.
The shunt is wired in series with either the negative or positive battery wire. Usually the negative side. The ammeter connects to the smaller screws and is polarity sensitive.
The ammeter detects the very minor voltage drop across the copper bar. Then reads it out in amps. The larger the load the greater the reading on the ammeter.


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Old 01-09-2015, 04:28 PM   #32
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Thanks, I got the ammeter part. The problem is really the blue wire. I don't know where it's supposed to attach to on the Parallax. Positive, negative, a fuse? I attached it to a fuse this morning and it popped. No wonder because the fuse in the Parallax is a 20A and I think the blue wire needs a 40A. I can put a 40A inline fuse but I still don't know where it goes to. The service manual says it goes to the stereo, the front ceiling fan and the tow vehicle.

Here is a picture of my Univolt fuse panel without fuses, front and back. You can see on the picture of the back, there's a wire. That wire went into the guts of the Univolt. Now that I have a Boondocker, I don't know where to wire it to. Or maybe I can't use it and I get no power light?



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Old 01-09-2015, 06:38 PM   #33
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Measure the voltage on the wire in question. Referenced to common/ground. It appears to be connected to the buss on the Univolt. If you read 12 or more volts, it could be used for the power on light. Turn off the converter and see if it goes to zero volts. If so, it should work for the power on light.


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