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Old 03-27-2011, 06:53 PM   #15
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My univolt is much newer (1982) but the black wire in question supplies a "univolt on" indicator light. Perhaps you have such an indicator that is currently dark? Jeff
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Old 03-27-2011, 07:45 PM   #16
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I would not cut the wires and just connect them the way you think they should be. You need to make sure what each wire is designated to do. Otherwise you could damage the wiring, not to mention the devices connected to them. If you damage wiring behind the interior skin of the trailer you will have major problems.
I agree with wasagachris on the size of the black wire; it should be at least a #10 and preferably #8 because of the length.
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I would not cut the wires and just connect them the way you think they should be. You need to make sure what each wire is designated to do. Otherwise you could damage the wiring, not to mention the devices connected to them. If you damage wiring behind the interior skin of the trailer you will have major problems.
I agree with wasagachris on the size of the black wire; it should be at least a #10 and preferably #8 because of the length.
Got ya - won't connect anything until I see what they do. Will open up the univolt tomorrow to determine what each wire is connected to. Thanks,
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Old 03-27-2011, 11:04 PM   #18
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if jbib has it right you might find the answer here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ing-65867.html
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Old 03-27-2011, 11:06 PM   #19
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Tim

Since the black wire in the garden hose is connected to the same terminal as the red wire, I would think that it is 12 volt and would also be connected to the same terminal (positive) on the univolt.

Here is the wiring diagram out of my 1966 owners manual for a 22ft. I can't see where it helps any, but it may help somebody else to chime in to help you solve your problem.

Dan
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:27 AM   #20
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Dan, Thanks for your input. The garden hose black wire goes all the way out to the 7 way in the front of the trailer. It is not the same black wire that comes from the univolt. As soon as it warms up at bit (only 8 degrees now) I will open it up to try to determine what the black wire is.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:59 AM   #21
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i have a 64, and the only black wire I had was up to the battery checker, and it was a much smaller wire. To me it looked like they oversized just about every wire. The stranded wires were almost all #10, and the 2 sets of solid wire looks like they were run to my lights where I had both 12v and 110 running to most of my lights. I basically just hooked all white to neutral and then mapped each of the colors to something in the trailer. Flipped on switches one by one to find out what they went to.
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:19 PM   #22
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I just discovered that the extra black wire from my univolt goes to the battery checker. I'm pretty sure I understand how things get attached. I will post again after I get it done. Thanks to all for the help.
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:26 PM   #23
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Later Univolts also have a couple of wires on them that provide a shunt, and can be used to read the battery, and the tank gauges.

It's worth taking that stuff off your Univolt, if it's still there.

I don't think this applies to the '60s models, though...
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Old 03-29-2011, 01:52 PM   #24
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I did get it in. Thanks to all that posted info. The hardest part was getting the old one out. I installed a 110 box for the PD 6245 to plug into and then the rest was very easy. All the reds and blues went to positive and the whites along with the phantom black went to negative. Check out before and after pics.
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:33 PM   #25
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Looking good!

What did you fasten the new voltage converter to? Did you build a little base for it, or...?
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:44 PM   #26
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I screwed it to the floor just like the old one.
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:48 PM   #27
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Ahhh, great idea!
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