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Old 11-22-2011, 03:19 PM   #1
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Help! New Battery Still no power?

I am looking for some help. I unfortunately have not been able to use my AS since July 4th.
It has been stored at a friends house with AC power plugged in. He unpluged the AS by accident with the roof vent fan going and the battery ran down. I plugged back in and all systems worked.
I recently pick up AS and found battery dead when I unplugged. I took battery to Sears for testing it was there top of the line Platinum battery with 1150 CA. They said they tested it and it was bad I puchased a new one unfortunately $300. I took it home to AS and hooked it up..Went in the checked meter. It listed battery charge as only fair. I thouht that was strange but plugged into AC power and assumed it would go to full charge overnight. Today when I unplugged and check battery charge meter it show totally dead. Took battery to Sears they checked and tested good. I reinstalted still nothing.
All systems work when plugged in but nothing on battery power.
I took an ohm meter and I am getting power to circuit board in closet but not to lights or anything else.
I don't know if this helps but I also could not get the tongue jack to work even when umbilical cord was connected to tow vehicle but would work when AS plugged to AC power.
AS is 1973 Sovereign 31ft.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice.
Andy
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:44 PM   #2
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Hello Andy,
From the sound of your symptoms, I would guess that you have a blown fuse or a short somewhere in the wiring between the battery and the 12V fuse panel. I'm not sure of your current configuration, but use your voltmeter to check continuity of all the fuses including the in line fuse on the battery negative post to ground. Hope this helps!
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:15 PM   #3
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Andy,

What about the converter, OEM or has it been up-graded?

Bob
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:28 PM   #4
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Converter is OEM.
Lance where is the inline fuse on the battery negative post to ground located? I am not familar with that and unfortunately not very knowledgable about electric systems at all.
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:45 PM   #5
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Andy,
The negative fuse should be in a holder screwed to the wooden support that the Univolt is fastened to. It is a little hard to see in this pic, but it is next to the Blue Univolt in the lower right hand corner of this pic where you see the heavy guage black wire.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...4&d=1304467371
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:52 PM   #6
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Here is a better picture of the converter and fuse panel.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...3&d=1305382192
The negative (black) wire from the battery comes up through the floor and connects to the fuse holder on the outboard side of the blue fuse panel.
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:27 PM   #7
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You might want to check the wire connections to the fuse holder as they can be loose or even worse stripped threads due to over zealous tightening. My negative holder was mounted on the inside wall just to the left of the access door. One of the leads was loose and even though the fuse tested good, power was spotty until I figured it out. Finally soldered the darn thing and it works fine. Also you might want to think about replacing the OEM univolt (HUMMMMMMM) with a modern three stage converter. A lot quieter and better for your batteries long life......Phil.
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:28 PM   #8
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I am not at home now but will view the photo on a real computer later tonight.
Thanks again for all the help!
Andy
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:34 PM   #9
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Picture of fuse

This is a picture of the battery fuse on my trailer. The fuse is located on the shelf where the red wire turns to black.



My trailer is a 1976 31' middle bath.

If this fuse is blown, there is no battery charge or discharge.
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:58 PM   #10
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Thank you everyone. My system appears to have been modified slightly by former owner. There is a black large Gage wire running from back of fuse box to nowhere, I had hoped that it was left over from earlier repair because there is ALOT of that in my AS but I think maybe it has come lose and is the culprit. I will post photos tonight or tomorrow when I can get home.
Thank you again every one for your time and help. Airforums members are the greatest!
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:03 PM   #11
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It looks like a blade style in a round holder.
Whats rating?
30-50a rounds or fusible link worth a try.

Bob
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:10 AM   #12
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Here are some pics. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:55 AM   #13
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First thing I do is take all that tape off and see what it's hiding. Next I get the OEM electrical schematic, test all connections and fuses, and rebuild the system to specs where needed. By looking at the pictures I'd guess there's an open ground. But it looks cobbled up and that's a feature that seems to pick discouraging times to fail again.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:06 AM   #14
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AustinAir,
From what you describe, there could be 3 problems. The converter/charger isn't charging or has a bad fuse, the new battery got too discharged, and went bad (again), or there is a current drain that exceeds the charger's capacity.
My suggestion for testing would be:
First, make sure ALL the screw connctions are tight, and turn off all lights, fans, furnaces, fridge, etc. (You don't want something on, while testing). Make sure you know how to safely test electrical circuits!!!!!
2nd- disconnect all the PO fuse holders they added. You don't know what they go to yet, and it's not part of the charging circuit. You can reconnect them later. Make sure all the fuses are the right rating. Was that a picture of a blade fuse in the fuse holder? REPLACE it with the proper SLOW-BLOW fuse (30 or 40 AMps, probably) A fast blow automotive fuse won't work. If that's the charging cisruit, that's the bad fuse!! (Just make sure you're starting out with all the wiring connections and fuses in good order.)
3rd- with a VOLT (not OHM) meter in the 12 volt DC range, test across each and every fuse. If the fuses are good, you will get ZERO volts. If a fuse is blown, you'll see 12 volts across the fuse if there's a load still connected somewhere.
4th- test from each fuse, both sides, to negative. You should see positive 12 volts at every fuse (I don't think there are any switched circuits on your unit...anyone?). If you see 12 volts on ONE side, but NOT the other, the fuse is blown.
5th- With AC still on, test across the battery terminals. Should be about 13-1/2 volts. Your charger is working properly.
6th- With AC off, test across the battery terminals. Should be above 12 volts. Your battery is propbably holding a charge. Test this again in an hour, see if the voltage drops. If it drops, the battery's weak. If not, it's OK.
7th- If steps 5 & 6 check out OK, then disconnect the converter (I assume you still have the old Univolt?) from the 12 volt dc fuse block. Place the volt meter in series with the battery to the positive terminal. (Remove the battery fuse and connect the meter) You shouldn't get any volt above 1 volt. If you do, re-test with a test light. If the test light turns on, you have something connected that's draining the battery or there's a short in some wiring.
I suspect the fridge drained the battery last year, and when you put in the new battery, the automotive fuse in the charging circuit blew. Charge the battery with a battery charger outside of the AS, replace the fuse with proper rating fuse, and you probably will be fine.
An electrical supply house, or Inland RV will ahve the right fuse. Radio Shack probably doesn't carry the right fuse. (DON'T bypass the fuse 'cuz you don't have one!)
Then, let us know what you find.
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