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Old 06-09-2009, 05:59 PM   #15
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1971 31' Sovereign
weiser , Idaho
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Originally Posted by DPeakMD View Post
Was your truck's engine on? Some manufacturers kill the circuit to the plug in order to prevent draining the starting battery on the tow vehicle. Just a thought...

The univolt should alone not working should not have an effect on the 12V system when plugged into a tow vehicle--I'm pretty sure even without a trailer battery. Make sure the battery terminal leads don't accidently touch one another, though! If they did, then everything was shorted and you'll need new fuses in your truck as well.

There are a couple of possibilities: The fuse mentioned above is still a possibility for why the interior circuits are not working. However, the jack would still be powered from the tow vehicle connection directly. That does not use a separate fuse, but rather a circuit breaker. It is located along with another circuit-breaker near where the umbilical comes in the front of the trailer that interrupts the charge line.

Good luck.
Yep my truck's engine was on. Nothing. I did check my turn signals and they worked so power is obviously getting through somewhere.

I also checked all the fuses on the univolt and they are all good, but I'm not getting any DC power at the fuses when checked with a meter.

I'm not seeing a circuit breaker on the front by the umbilical. Is it on the tongue or the chassis?
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:12 PM   #16
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I also checked all the fuses on the univolt and they are all good, but I'm not getting any DC power at the fuses when checked with a meter.
Make sure you are checking the fuse holder where it comes from the univolt. If you are holding your test probe on the end of the fuse, the corrosion I menioned earlier will prevent a reading. Adios,John
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:21 PM   #17
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Make sure you are checking the fuse holder where it comes from the univolt. If you are holding your test probe on the end of the fuse, the corrosion I menioned earlier will prevent a reading. Adios,John
Ok, the fuse holder to the right of the univolt is corroded so I pulled the fuse to clean it all up and promptly dropped the friggin fuse down below the tub where I'm sure it will remain until the end of time. Gonna try to get a new one tonight if there are any stores open, of course getting the right fuse may be tough because the one I needed to identify the type is ungettable.

Naturally getting my big mitts in to where all this stuff is is damn near impossible. Are there any other fuses outside the univolt that I need to check?

Thanks
Rick
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:22 PM   #18
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My 1967 Tradewind only has 2 12v 30 amp glass fuses in a box beside the univolt. In that same box I also have 3 12v circuit breakers that caused me all sorts of intermitant problems till I replaced them. Since you have no 12v at all that is why I suspect corrosion on the fuse ends. Adios John
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:42 PM   #19
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To get the fuse you dropped, use a long magnet such as mechanics have and probe down there with it. You might find it. Since you'll be at an auto parts store to look for a new fuse, you can get the magnet then. The magnet will help you in the future and to confirm you bought the correct fuse.

My jack is powered directly by the batteries and without batteries, my jack likely wouldn't work.

You state the turn signals worked—which ones—truck or trailer?

Have you checked the contacts on the trailer plug at the back of the truck? Is this the right plug for the trailer? There have been different plugs in different eras.

Without a trailer battery, I think because things aren't the way they are supposed to be, things may act crazy. Trailer wiring is strange enough without challenging the electron gods.

Gene
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:12 AM   #20
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1971 31' Sovereign
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My 1967 Tradewind only has 2 12v 30 amp glass fuses in a box beside the univolt. In that same box I also have 3 12v circuit breakers that caused me all sorts of intermitant problems till I replaced them. Since you have no 12v at all that is why I suspect corrosion on the fuse ends. Adios John
My '71 sovereign just seems to have the one 40 amp (? since I dropped the bastard after getting a quick look at it) beside the univolt. I'm not seeing any 12 volt breakers anywhere though. Tried to buy a new fuse at the local hardware store and NAPA with no luck. I may try the RV repair in the next town tomorrow. The fuse holder was really corroded and mostly hidden by the insulation on the shroud around the univolt, so I'm really hoping this is the extent of the problem.

Next problem is likely to be the plumbing, but one thing at a time.
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:18 AM   #21
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1971 31' Sovereign
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Originally Posted by CrawfordGene View Post
To get the fuse you dropped, use a long magnet such as mechanics have and probe down there with it. You might find it. Since you'll be at an auto parts store to look for a new fuse, you can get the magnet then. The magnet will help you in the future and to confirm you bought the correct fuse.

My jack is powered directly by the batteries and without batteries, my jack likely wouldn't work.

You state the turn signals worked—which ones—truck or trailer?

Have you checked the contacts on the trailer plug at the back of the truck? Is this the right plug for the trailer? There have been different plugs in different eras.

Without a trailer battery, I think because things aren't the way they are supposed to be, things may act crazy. Trailer wiring is strange enough without challenging the electron gods.

Gene

Tried the magnet idea, no go, the buggers well and truly gone.

My jack worked fine without the battery for years as long as I was connected to the truck.

Turn signals worked on the trailer just fine, weird.

Yep, cleaned the contacts, the plug is the same as I've always used on this trailer, and I've towed other trailers with this truck with no electrical issues.

If I have to buy a battery I will, just hesitant because the cost of getting this thing roadable again is mounting.
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