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08-09-2017, 09:48 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
2015 25' FB International
San Ramon
, California
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 50
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Have I screwed up my converter?
So in trying to save a couple hundred dollars on purchasing 300 feet of extension cord, I used a friends spider box (kind of like an industrial power bar) that he uses on occasion to do construction work. Seemed like a great idea.
That was until I plugged into the 30A plug to start charging my AS. The A/C started working, then cut out after a few seconds. In the process of trying to work out the situation, I realized that the spider box plug I used was 220 instead of 110.
We changed the plug to a single phase, thereby knocking it down to 110, but it still wasn't working right. My converter kept running when it was plugged in.
That was yesterday.
Today, I think that the whole converter isn't working.
How can I check to see what has happened?
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08-10-2017, 01:46 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W
, New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 7,402
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Sorry to hear that. I think I've read in these forums that 220 can damage a lot in your trailer - you may want to test all your electronics. As for the converter itself, I'm no electrician but there's a YouTube video that might answer your question here:
https://youtu.be/IoF3iAnjSmY
Good luck!
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08-10-2017, 03:58 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Mantua
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,062
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Does your air con work now? You may have cooked a lot of the system. As has been said, check all electrical items out.
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08-10-2017, 05:01 AM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member
2000 30' Excella
Toledo
, Ohio
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 493
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I just installed a new converter in mine one test you might do is disconnect the + battery lead and with a voltmeter check from - to + and it should read more than 12 volts like 13.6 or a little higher . Usually 220 volts kills the converter and microwave
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08-10-2017, 05:07 AM
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#5
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
.
, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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With 220, you may have destroyed the:
120v part of the fridge, if it was on.
air conditioner
television(s)
converter
120v part of the water heater
microwave
blue ray player
anything else plugged in to an outlet.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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08-10-2017, 05:10 AM
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#6
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2017 FC 28 Twin
Plymouth
, Indiana
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 88
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Actually seen this happen first hand individual plugged into the same 220 outlet in a spyder thinking it was 110 30A Not toasted all electronics in the unit, my suggestion time to upgrade your converter as yours is most likely toast, the A/C needs to be throughly checked might have toasted the capacitors and board,microwave tv's any electronics plugged in
__________________
2017 FC 28 w/ Shocker hitch
2014 RAM 3500 4x4 mega cab drw
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08-10-2017, 01:13 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2019 30' Classic
Canfield
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,559
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Would the converter protect the rest of the electronics from the surge? I thought it would kick off just as it did? If anything it is time to upgrade to a stage 4 converter and then see what works.
__________________
"At some point, throwing money at the problem *is* the right answer", Uncle Bob
x\x/x\x/x\x/x\x/x\101970\x/x\x/x\x/x\x/x\x/x\/x\x/x\x/x
Tom & Doty
2019 Airstream Classic 30 Twin
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08-10-2017, 01:27 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2013 31' Classic
billings
, Montana
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,577
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This post is like hooking city water to the black tank flush with the valve closed.....
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08-10-2017, 01:30 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
2016 28' International
2015 28' International
2013 28' International
Las Vegas
, Nevada
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 234
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Sorry to hear of your oops! 1st check the (2) 30A green fuses on the front of the converter itself, if they are blown try replacing them, if they blow out immediately the converter is blown.
You can get the upgraded parallax converter that AS currently uses on Amazon now, although everybody else will tell you to get another one like a boondocks or whatever.
Not much else will be affected as I have this issue quite often during large commercial lug power events, don't feel too bad, there is a lot of us that have done this!
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08-10-2017, 01:53 PM
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#10
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turk123
Would the converter protect the rest of the electronics from the surge? I thought it would kick off just as it did? If anything it is time to upgrade to a stage 4 converter and then see what works.
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Hi
No the converter would not have protected any of the "supposed to be 120V" stuff from the over voltage. A surge is at most a second or two. Over voltage is a situation that lasts longer than that.
Even if the converter is ok right now, it probably will not be at some point in the near future. Just replace it with a good one. Get a temperature probe for the battery while you are at it.
Some (but not all) electronic gear actually is ok with 220V. You would have to look at the labels to work out which gear that is. Electrical gear (compressors, motors, heaters) is often not as forgiving of significant duration exposure. How long is significant? That depends on a lot of things, some of which not at all easy to find out (saw the motor in half and look at the following details ....).
Bob
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08-10-2017, 06:13 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalidas
So in trying to save a couple hundred dollars on purchasing 300 feet of extension cord, I used a friends spider box (kind of like an industrial power bar) that he uses on occasion to do construction work. Seemed like a great idea.
That was until I plugged into the 30A plug to start charging my AS. The A/C started working, then cut out after a few seconds. In the process of trying to work out the situation, I realized that the spider box plug I used was 220 instead of 110.
We changed the plug to a single phase, thereby knocking it down to 110, but it still wasn't working right. My converter kept running when it was plugged in.
That was yesterday.
Today, I think that the whole converter isn't working.
How can I check to see what has happened?
|
How did you get it to connect a 220V plug has a configuration of one verticle and one horizontal female in the plug and connector, also how did you plug the cord into 220V as it has the same on that end as well, as well does your converter have an under voltage circuit or have you checked the voltage at the connection, 300 ft of cable has a huge voltage drop, I would suspect that you are only getting 90 to 100 volts at that distance
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09-13-2017, 04:02 PM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
2015 25' FB International
San Ramon
, California
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 50
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Update on the converter
Hello Everyone,
Wanted to say thank you to everyone for your help.
Updating the situation.
I replaced the converter with a Parallax RU55. Had quite a time getting the old one out. The little hex screws must have been torqued in by a gorilla. Striped one so bad I needed vice grips to get it out.
Seems to be working perfectly. Though the front plate doesn't line up quite perfectly. Will be getting back in touch with Parallax.
Anyway, the new issue is that I am pretty sure that I blew out the refrigerator control board. Luckily, that is the only thing that seems to not be working.
I am trying to find a replacement, but am unable to find the anyone offering the actual control board with the same number. Does it have to be the exact match?
Anyone have the same problem?
Thanks
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