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Old 03-01-2013, 06:20 PM   #1
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2012 25' FB Flying Cloud
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Flying Cloud Battery Box

Hi,
I have a 2012 Flying Cloud 25 FB. I want to change my 2 Group 24 factory batteries to 2 Trojan T105 6 volt. I do not want to get in a debate over 6 volt vs 12 volts and understand the wiring differences. I have made this change on a boat and my previous trailer.
My question is about modifying the battery box. I need 1.5 inches more clearance under the lid of the existing battery box. The front outside storage door on the coach opens from the top and hinges down over the battery box. When this door is open it clears the battery box by about 1 inch and is 1/2 inch from the latch on the battery box lid. If I raise the battery box lid 1.5 inches every time I open the storage compartment door it will rest on the top of the battery box lid and will probably become dented or damaged.
About the only solution I see on this is have the battery box cut free and re welded 1.5 inches lower.
Has any one else dealt with this?
Thanks
Phil
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:23 PM   #2
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We have a 16' Airstream and one of the first things I did was modify the factory battery setup. I posted about it here. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f345...ons-89021.html

I tend to jump in to projects with both feet but that is me....

I assume you will wire the batteries together to give 12volts?

Bruce
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:29 PM   #3
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Hi Bruce,
Thanks for your reply. I looked at your link and you did a nice job on your battery box. My 25 FB is different in that i have a storage compartment door on the front of the trailer that opens and hinges down over the top of the battery box. That door creates a situation where the battery box has to be down between the frame rails.
Phil
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:35 PM   #4
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I believe there is a plastic tray the sits at the bottom of the battery box (which is between the frame rails)...the tray can be removed to give you a little more depth...but I don't know if that would give you the space you need. You might want to check this out. I know some have replaced their two Group 24s with two Group 27s and this was part of the solution.
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:58 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info, TBRich. Just this morning I was looking in the battery box as best I could around the batteries and sensed their might be some thing under the batteries. I will look into this further.
Phil
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:37 PM   #6
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Scaler113...could you send a picture of the storage compartment you mention? Thanks.
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:22 PM   #7
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NO 13,
Here are pictures of the storage compartment/battery box area.
Phil
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:42 PM   #8
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Thanks...do you have the twin beds, or was the compartment something new for the later 2012 build dates? My storage is from the curb side.
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:47 PM   #9
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We have twin beds.
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:56 PM   #10
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Ah, now with the photos the problem you talked about is clear. I would suggest you consider lowering the bottom of the battery box rather than moving it down. That is remove the bottom of the box to make it deeper. This will take some efforts for sure but will probably be your best bet.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:08 PM   #11
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Just a thought...remove the battery box latch and replace with a length of thin adhesive magnetic strip to stay closed...might gain about an inch of clearance...but you would have to cover up the hole some how.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:40 PM   #12
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Thanks to you all for the ideas. I will be checking out what may be a tray in the bottom of the present box and by removing this gain some depth and in combination with this go to two group 27 batteries. Or as one suggestion suggested remove the bottom of the box and reattach it to make the box several inches deeper.
I probably will not do this right now since I am reluctant to make changes in the electrical system while the trailer is under warranty. When I do make changes they will probably include a 3 or 4 stage converter charger, trimetric amp hour meter and a manual transfer switch.
Phil
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No. 13 View Post
Just a thought...remove the battery box latch and replace with a length of thin adhesive magnetic strip to stay closed...might gain about an inch of clearance...but you would have to cover up the hole some how.
We replaced the non-locking latch on our battery box with a keyed replacement from Ace. At the same time we also replaced the latches on the vented outside access doors for the frig (We used the same lock with the same key so we only have one key far all.)

That gains you a little space because you don't have the turn latch any longer...
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