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Old 01-06-2015, 01:50 PM   #29
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Instead of moving anything, buy these lead bricks and place them in the bumper storage.

Lead Brick 2" x 4" x 8" 99.9% Pure

Just thinking outside the box...
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Old 01-06-2015, 02:27 PM   #30
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I try to think in terms of moving hitch weight back without overloading the area behind the trailer axles. We use the storage area under our rear bed and the bedroom cabinets, and our bicycles and rack sit at the rear bumper. That's enough back there bouncing during travel.

We take heavy dishes and gear out of the kitchen cabinets and into a collapsable canvas carrier to place in the center hall at the rear axle. We have installed recliners in the front of the Airstream which we slide back to the kitchen cabinets for travel. The first four feet in the front of our interior is virtually empty.

We load nothing in the truck bed aft of it's rear axle.

A little here and there adds up. After adopting these simple procedures I had to move the ProPride down a hole on the drop bar because the front of the Airstream was a bit too high. The load on the truck's rear was lightened.

No warnings of doom needed, I have experienced sway from a back-heavy utility trailer loaded with long lumber and understand the difference. Our hitch weight is still adequate and the trailer handles and rides nicely.
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Old 01-06-2015, 02:31 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kscherzi View Post
Instead of moving anything, buy these lead bricks and place them in the bumper storage.

Lead Brick 2" x 4" x 8" 99.9% Pure

Just thinking outside the box...
Might be some merit to this idea. Might be slightly less expensive alternatives to the lead, albeit a little less dense.
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Old 01-06-2015, 03:07 PM   #32
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This is a thread I'd like to participate in to learn something.

The maximum weight of our Airstream is 7300 lbs, which means at least 730 lb hitch weight is needed for our fully loaded trailer to meet the minimum 10% generally recommended.

The European diesel SUVs have maximum hitch weight of about 770 lbs maximum, depending on whose chart you look. I am thinking it may be possible to reach near that low of a hitch weight on the 25 with a couple of more steps, (re)moving spare tire and carrier and possibly moving batteries aft.

That of course is foolish to some, good for us because we can replace a family sedan and a pickup truck with one nice driving vehicle. Without talking insurance, legality, my stupidity (which I am aware of already) and all that stuff, is their some more ideas on how it can be done?
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Old 01-06-2015, 03:24 PM   #33
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Ditto, have been thinking about 6V AGM for my solar install and using the battery box for booster for disc brake conversion.
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Old 01-06-2015, 05:23 PM   #34
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Does anyone have a good fairly easy way to hook up a second battery on a 1978 31' International.
The battery box is a slide in in the front and it just holds one battery.
I've seen sob that have a box on the front frame for the 2nd one .

Thanks
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:29 PM   #35
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Airstream probably spent millions of dollars engineering your unit and you aren't going to make it better by spending a few thousand dollars,save your self a bunch of headaches and buy something engineered to do the job...
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:46 PM   #36
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lewster -

Very interesting heads up on the new lithium batteries soon to be introduced, more lower and lighter weight loves two problems for us trying to reduce hitch weight. Lighter hitch weight and more storage capacity for our solar panels possibly eliminating need for a third battery. Very good, thanks !
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:50 PM   #37
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tj -

Thanks for revealing that to us but the project is already underway, front dinette and bench seats with storage already gone.
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Old 01-06-2015, 07:34 PM   #38
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Ohiobrits, I don't think you have a real problem but rather a small problem that is easily resolved by following the advise of Lewster. I have 4 AGM batteries located near the front of my 30' Signature. Jeep handles beautifully, yours will be even better. Jim


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Old 01-06-2015, 07:38 PM   #39
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FB - move batteries to rear of trailer

In my opinion the weight that WD takes off the TV is well, off of the TV.

That aside,,, weight right in the back of the trailer is an invitation for sway.

(The PP will take care of the sway though)

If it were me, I would leave the batteries where they are and lighten the trailer with the PP WD.


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Old 01-06-2015, 07:53 PM   #40
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Some data on weight reductions...

Here are a few calculations on what is possible relative to various weight reductions suggested so far - approximate only since I do not have any of the actual dimensions, weights etc and its been too many years since I did these kind of calculations:-

Assuming a hitch to axle center line dimensions of 211 inches for the 25FB (scaled from a photo ).

Batteries: -

Assuming 2 x 53lb batteries = 106 lbs total installed 24 inches from the hitch, removing them will reduce hitch weight by 94lbs and remove 12lbs from the axles.
Moving the same 2 batteries inside under the bed at 48in from the hitch adds back 82lbs to the hitch and 24lbs to the axles. Probably not worth the effort.

I looked up lithium batteries, I'm not sure what the direct equivalent is for the lead acid ones installed but they are touted at 70% lighter.Deep Cycle Lithium Batteries. Assuming 2 batteries at say 40lbs instead of 106 the following applies: -

Leave in current box location outside, this adds 35lbs to the hitch and 5 to the axles - nice saving on the hitch of about 59lbs. Move under the bed and the hitch load is 31lbs, a savings of about 63lbs. Again probably not worth the effort to relocate but well worth the effort to use Lithium so long as the cost is not ridiculous.

Gas bottle reductions / changes: -

Assuming removing one full 30lb bottle (actual weight full = 54lbs) positioned 12in from the hitch will reduce hitch weight by 51 lbs and axles by 3. Nice reduction here if you will use hookups and don't need much propane. Aluminum and composite bottles are available but did not look too much lighter than the steel ones from what I could see but would save maybe 8-10lbs per tank.

Moving the 2 lead acid batteries to the rear of the trailer removes about 135lbs from the hitch since the battery weight is now behind the axle and actually tries to lift the hitch a bit. I guess that is why this option is attractive (installation issues and cost aside).

TT Spare

Removing the TT spare at about 50lbs and 48in from the hitch removes about 37lbs from the hitch.

Combining TT spare deletion with batteries in the rear you get about 170lbs of tongue weight relief, add a 70lb hitch and the 835lb hitch weight would be (very roughly) 735lbs dry, unloaded.

Based on various posts I have read, hitch weight for the 25FB goes up about 100 - 150lbs when fully loaded with water etc. Either dry or fully loaded therefore would still be above the 10% hitch weight so would seem reasonable.

Other options?

Out of interest the 27FB has a slightly lighter tongue at 791lbs which gives another 44 lbs of savings for those looking to save a few lbs with zero effort....if not zero $, those extra inches cost extra $.

Call me insane and despite the advice given here I'm still interested in investigating moving batteries to the rear before I take this option off the table completely. What is the criteria for wire sizing to the batteries? I assume charging current inflow would be one and outflow would be the other. Outflow in particular is probably uses specific to some degree. The 1000W inverter assuming 100% efficiency would / could pull 83A I think so this might be the minimum?

Anyone got a (recent) wiring diagram with wire sizes used by Airstream?

Thanks for humoring me....interesting topic.
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:18 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bev1940 View Post
Does anyone have a good fairly easy way to hook up a second battery on a 1978 31' International.
The battery box is a slide in in the front and it just holds one battery.
I've seen sob that have a box on the front frame for the 2nd one .

Thanks

I have a 1967 31' with a later side battery box like yours-I carry the second battery ahead of the TV rear axle until needed, then set it on the ground beside the trailer and connect it to the other battery with a set of cables made to hook them together. Since the second battery is used only when parked, sometimes will go a week or two without using it. Usually set the solar panel up and hook up the second battery at the same time. I could have put in a second box, but didn't want to add the extra weight. Not ideal, but is simple, and works well. Rolland.


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Old 01-06-2015, 09:37 PM   #42
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The frame of Airstreams must have a good chassis ground. If not, how would the electric jack work with only a positive lead? That is why, during jack replacement, star washer(s) are recommended to bite into the "A" frame coupler metal through the paint. Check it out with a lighted circuit tester from battery positive to bare metal on the chassis. Now, you are going to make me go to the trailer and confirm that is how I shorted my nut driver across the metal cover of one of the battery circuit breakers while hooking up two extra Optimas. The circuit breaker was mounted to the interior skin through the mouse hair covering on the wall under the couch with sheet metal screws.
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