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Old 01-06-2015, 07:40 AM   #15
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Those do sound promising...so, if I were to move the batteries inside, what happens to the wires that currently run to the battery box outside?
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:28 AM   #16
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Has anyone weighed their tongue with the batteries removed from the tongue battery box? Two grp 27 AGMs weigh 63lbs each (126lbs) in the front box. Since the battery box is not directly on the coupler what is the difference in weight?

Also with the same batteries moved to under the front bed next to the compartment where the store/use relay is located what is the difference in tongue weight?

If you only reduce the tongue weight 50lbs is it worth the effort and cost? One advantage is you could put large 6v AGMs under the bed and not have to worry about modifying the tongue battery box lid height.

What battery restraints are used for batteries located under the bed?

Can the existing cables be removed easily from the battery box?

I'd like to see a photo of an install under the front bed of a 25fb.

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Old 01-06-2015, 08:34 AM   #17
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I'll look for one in my files. I custom built restraints for these installations.

With respect to the existing battery cables at the tongue box, these are either removed and replaced with slightly larger class K welding cables, usually 2AWG or simply pulled back thru their existing hole in the floor and re-routed to the new battery bank. Re-sealing of the floor penetration is required in either case.


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Old 01-06-2015, 08:43 AM   #18
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I have a Sherline scale. When I pull my AS out of storage in a few months I'll weigh my tongue weight again and remove the batteries and weigh. My Interstate grp 27 batteries are not quite as heavy as the AGMs of the same size. They are supposed to be 53lbs each. I'll also place them under the bed and weigh the tongue.

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Old 01-06-2015, 09:04 AM   #19
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I'm surprised nobody has mentioned possible frame damage from the weight.

There's a boat load of threads discussing how a bike carrier on the rear of an A/S will cause all kinds of havoc... a couple of flooded group 27's placed in the rear would probably cause the trailer to spontaneously explode into a haze of aluminum confetti and floating pink batt
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:25 AM   #20
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There's a huge difference between placing 150 lbs inside the confines of the frame/shell structure and cantilevering about 75-100 lbs FROM the rear of the frame and solely depending on it's integrity. The moment arm of a cantilevered load will greatly increase the actual weight seen by the frame while the load inside makes full use of the Airstream's monocoque frame/shell/floor structure.


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Old 01-06-2015, 09:27 AM   #21
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Have you considered a hitch other than the Pro Pride. My old Reese straight line weighed about half of the Pro Pride. The Andersen hitch that I am now using with our 1987 25' Sovereign only weighs 65 lbs..
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:02 AM   #22
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I would think the best battery location would be near the foot of the rear bed, near center of the trailer.

Another tongue weight reduction project I have considered is removal of the spare tire and it's steel carrier. In case of a flat the tandem axle Airstream was designed to run some distance at lower speed with the flat tire and wheel removed (it's in your owner's manual); and the chance of ever having a blowout is almost none with the Michelin tires we now have.

I don't like the heavy hitch weight of our Airstream even if it does reduce the chances of trailer sway. At 835# published weight, our 25 is near the heaviest of all Airstreams, except perhaps the former slideouts. Add a w.d. hitch and some gear inside and you're probably exceeding Airstream's own hitch weight limit "shall never exceed 1,000 lbs" from the owner's manual.

A lighter hitch weight for our trailer (but above 10 percent trailer weight for sway resistance) and no gear behind the axle of our tow vehicle would mean less stress on our hitch system and it's components and attachment points, as well as a less rigid connection for a smoother ride in the truck and trailer.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:22 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msmcv51 View Post
Have you considered a hitch other than the Pro Pride. My old Reese straight line weighed about half of the Pro Pride. The Andersen hitch that I am now using with our 1987 25' Sovereign only weighs 65 lbs..
For my part I did use a lighter hitch, Equal-I-Zer but did not like the sideways push and movement from wind and semi trucks, or rigid connection. I then took forum advice and tried an Andersen hitch and learned it could not distribute the weight of our trailer leaving the truck steering axle dangerously light, and allowed even worse wind push.

I would quit Airstreaming before giving up our ProPride hitch, and deal with it's extra 60-70 lbs for the safety and ease of towing it gives us. Folks will continue to discourage and trash it because they don't understand it and have never used it, that's fine.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:53 AM   #24
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Any cable run that will be almost the length of the trailer, plus bends and a cross-trailer path will approach 30'. That is a HUGE run for any battery system and would require (without doing the actual math and considering the size of the battery bank) a minimum of 2/0 and perhaps 4/0 cables. That would be 60 feet at $12/foot (4/0 class K welding cable)...........or $700 +/-.



A far better and easier alternative would be to purchase a pair of quality AGM batteries and place them under the bed, which will effectively lower the tongue weight significantly. I have many solar installations in the FB series and the Classic series trailers where the batteries have been relocated inside in this manner. No problems!

I thought there were lighter batteries, thanks.
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:38 AM   #25
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What is your tow vehicle?

Thanks for the many suggestions and useful dialogue. My intended TV is a Cayenne Diesel, payload is limited to about 1250lbs. I realize there are many on this forum with strong opinions both ways about this choice so don't want to revisit that topic here.

I did consider removing one propane bottle, potentially using a smaller bottle for the one that remains, that should give me about 70 lb reduction. Certainly an option.

I did also consider removing the TT spare or relocating just rear of the axle I'm guessing 50 lbs or so for that.

I have had some good dialogue with Can-Am on TV selection, TT selection and tongue lightening and their suggestions (which they indicated they have done for customers) were battery relocation to the rear on the FB and deletion of the TT spare.

On the hitch I'm leaning towards starting with a simpler (not ProPride) hitch first and seeing how that goes. This would save about 150 lbs or so. Let's leave further hitch debate for the correct forum - that discussion can get heated pretty fast and I have read more posts on that than I care to admit 😳

Relative to the question relocating the batteries to the rear, has anyone done it?

Thanks again for the input.
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Old 01-06-2015, 12:02 PM   #26
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I would follow the advice of lewster. A DC run of that length would require very heavy cabling to reduce voltage loss. Can't really see where the expense and work would be worth the minor tongue weight reduction.
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Old 01-06-2015, 01:06 PM   #27
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Would it make sense to ask Airstream (the real experts) what this will impact? Warranty of your new coach, personal health or safety, battery and convertor performance, increased possibility of greater exterior skin corrosion?

I am confident that Airstream is aware of the issues/challenges a heavier tongue weight produces and they have yet to move those sealed and ventilated compartments closer to or behind the axle in an effort to reduce tongue weight. There must be a reason.
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Old 01-06-2015, 01:47 PM   #28
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Maybe you'd like to consider aluminum propane tanks as well: http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/..._Tanks_s/1.htm
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