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Old 07-18-2019, 12:12 PM   #1
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Electrical Upgrade

Why not install a 2000 watt inverter/charger connecting to to 30 amp input which would charge an upgraded battery bank and power all the 110v outlets. One would have to be sure to turn off the 110v hot water heater or have a low voltage cutoff.
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Old 07-18-2019, 03:30 PM   #2
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To run what? I suspect you are looking at a $5000 plus battery bank to do much. And a powerful converter and heavy wiring. Maybe $7000 total. That and space in the trailer is the “why not” for me.
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Old 07-18-2019, 04:05 PM   #3
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Hi

.... ummm ..... errrr ..... 30A x 120V = 3.6 KW. In addition, that's the "running" number. Surge is about 50% above that. Some inverters that would work get a 5KW label on them as a result.

30A at 120 at 100% efficiency would be 300A off the batteries. At 80% efficiency you are looking at 375A. That does not include the surge side of things, figure something in the 550A range then.

Assuming you want to do this with lead acid batteries, you need to stay under C/2 discharge levels. That gets you up around 1100 amp hours. Those batteries likely have 550 "usable" amp hours. They will run your setup for maybe 2 hours. For a "day long run" you will need something in the 5,000 to 10,000 amp hour range. You could cut that down to maybe 3,000 amp hours with lithium. That option is about $27,000.

There also is the minor issue of where to put all this stuff .....

Indeed a lot depends on just what you run. The nasty truth is that you *can* overload the 30A circuit with the stuff on a normal trailer. That makes staying well above 50% power pretty much all day long fairly easy.

Bob
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Old 07-18-2019, 06:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamaroak View Post
Why not install a 2000 watt inverter/charger connecting to to 30 amp input which would charge an upgraded battery bank and power all the 110v outlets. One would have to be sure to turn off the 110v hot water heater or have a low voltage cutoff.
I'm not sure that your question is completely clear, or if there's a more specific technical question you're asking.

Nothing wrong with installing a 2000 watt inverter/charger to the trailers 30 amp input. That's how you'll want to do it.

That's how even the stock trailer is setup, except we have separate inverter and converter charger components.
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Old 07-18-2019, 06:47 PM   #5
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Hi

The stock trailer has a 1KW inverter that will put out about 8A .....

Bob
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Old 07-19-2019, 08:53 PM   #6
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Why not install a 2000 watt inverter/charger connecting to to 30 amp input which would charge an upgraded battery bank and power all the 110v outlets. One would have to be sure to turn off the 110v hot water heater or have a low voltage cutoff.


I like simple and cheap. We donít need 30 amp input, so we reduced the shore input to 20 amps. I installed a simple 3 way switch. When the switch is down, the hot leg to the panel box comes from shore power. When the switch is up the hot leg to the panel box comes from the 2000 watt inverter. It seems to work fine. The only problem I have had is sometimes I forget to unplug the converter when we are operating off the batteries. Sure, the lithium batteries are expensive but the pure sine inverter was less than $400 and the batteries and inverter donít take up much space.

DanClick image for larger version

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Old 07-20-2019, 08:07 AM   #7
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Hi

If you have a microwave, it pulls a lot of power. If you have a pair of AC's forget about 30A, you need bigger. Fire up a toaster oven or a hair dryer and you have a significant power drain. Even having the TV and a few laptops running pulls a surprising amount of power.

How much you need / use / want is *very* dependent on just how the trailer is set up and what you want to do. What works for one (I'm quite happy with 2KW and not running any big kitchen appliances or the A/C ) will not be what works for somebody else.

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Old 07-20-2019, 09:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamaroak View Post
Why not install a 2000 watt inverter/charger connecting to to 30 amp input which would charge an upgraded battery bank and power all the 110v outlets. One would have to be sure to turn off the 110v hot water heater or have a low voltage cutoff.


I can run my whole trailer on a 2,000 watt inverter, everything but the air conditioner and the battery charger that I've rigged to be impossible to run while on inverter power.

(My trailer is virtually all 120V.) I use two group 27 batteries.

For my purposes it works very well.
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Old 07-20-2019, 09:23 AM   #9
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Dan. I guess I do not understand why or if you needed to convert to 20 amp input for the trailer. Could you have the same setup and keep the 30 input?
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Old 07-20-2019, 09:37 AM   #10
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I like simple and cheap. We donít need 30 amp input, so we reduced the shore input to 20 amps. I installed a simple 3 way switch. When the switch is down, the hot leg to the panel box comes from shore power. When the switch is up the hot leg to the panel box comes from the 2000 watt inverter. It seems to work fine. The only problem I have had is sometimes I forget to unplug the converter when we are operating off the batteries. Sure, the lithium batteries are expensive but the pure sine inverter was less than $400 and the batteries and inverter donít take up much space.

DanAttachment 347110Attachment 347111


I used two 30 amp double throw double pole switches to act as my transfer switches between shore power and inverter.

I use two switches where one would have otherwise worked because I use them to make sure I CAN'T run either the air conditioner or charger while on inverter.

In my first build I was responsible for making sure that the charger and cooler were OFF, I dropped the ball on that a few times. I needed foolproof. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-20-2019, 09:39 AM   #11
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With a 30 amp trailer, there's readily and cheaply available automatic transfer switches.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...ll-196098.html
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Old 07-20-2019, 12:47 PM   #12
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Dan. I guess I do not understand why or if you needed to convert to 20 amp input for the trailer. Could you have the same setup and keep the 30 input?


Bill

I converted to 20 amp input for the trailer because that was all I needed to operate the trailer. I had removed the large AC and went with a small efficient unit that I could run off the batteries or my 1k generator. The 20 amp input allowed me to use #12 wire and use the simple 3 way switch to select weather the hot input to the panel box was coming from my 2,000 watt inverter or shore power. If your input is 30 amp then you will need a transfer switch as pteck has done.

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Old 07-20-2019, 12:50 PM   #13
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Old 07-20-2019, 12:54 PM   #14
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Dan. I guess I do not understand why or if you needed to convert to 20 amp input for the trailer. Could you have the same setup and keep the 30 input?


yes, with a rated switch.

the single pole switches are much cheaper. Click image for larger version

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