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Old 09-26-2007, 04:55 PM   #1
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1966 20' Globetrotter
Orient , New York
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electrical system

I know this is my first post ,please excuse me but I have multiple questions regarding the electrical system of my newly acquired 66 Globetrotter.
1) Will the frig work on 110 or are the controls 12 v ?
2 )Is there any way to test and see if the univolt is working? I have 110 volts going in. the test light lit on both sides of the connection ,ie the feed into univolt and wires that lead from connection into univolt.
I was getting 12 volts on the battery side inside the univolt but not on the load side .I lost all the 12volt current,battery and load. The unit is still humming and the 40 volt fuses are not blown
I jump a wire from the battery to the load and got all the lights and fans to work.The water pump is also working ,but not the fan on the furnace .I'll wait till tomorrow to start looking at the refrigerator .
I apologize for being so long winded and thanks to anybody and everybody in advance tom
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Old 09-26-2007, 06:55 PM   #2
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electrical stuff

Well Howdy pilgrim,

Your aplogia reminds me of a tombstone: As you are now so once I was, As I am now you shall be, or something like that.

If you have the original fridge I believe it is a 2 way: 110 and gas.

If you dissconnect the battery and the univolt is hummin if you put a meter on the battery leads you should have a little over 13v,

If the univolt is shot, or you find yourself humming in socially inappropriate situations you might consider replacing it with something like a Intellipower. You will find a lot info if you seach the forums for Univolt or Intellipower.
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Old 09-26-2007, 07:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowldawg
I know this is my first post ,please excuse me but I have multiple questions regarding the electrical system of my newly acquired 66 Globetrotter.
1) Will the frig work on 110 or are the controls 12 v ?
2 )Is there any way to test and see if the univolt is working? I have 110 volts going in. the test light lit on both sides of the connection ,ie the feed into univolt and wires that lead from connection into univolt.
I was getting 12 volts on the battery side inside the univolt but not on the load side .I lost all the 12volt current,battery and load. The unit is still humming and the 40 volt fuses are not blown
I jump a wire from the battery to the load and got all the lights and fans to work.The water pump is also working ,but not the fan on the furnace .I'll wait till tomorrow to start looking at the refrigerator .
I apologize for being so long winded and thanks to anybody and everybody in advance tom

An Airstream univolt, must have a battery load on it to test the output voltage correctly.

If you bench test a perfectly good older univolt, you will not measure the output voltage correctly, unless you have a battery load on it.

That good univolt, without a battery load, will measure about 8 volts DC.
With the battery hooked up to the univolt, that same good univolt would now measure between 13.5 volts DC to 13.8 volts DC.

Andy
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Old 09-27-2007, 05:21 AM   #4
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1966 20' Globetrotter
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If I 'm not getting that voltage is it repairable or add it to the growing pile of junk that I'm accumulating ?
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Old 09-27-2007, 08:43 AM   #5
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Re: my poor advice above I defer to Andy, whose command of miscellaneous Airstream information shall never cease to amaze me.

Here's a little more something. The capacitiors in the univolt can be replaced. Capacitors store juice like a battery and can also give you quite a jolt.

As to your question, it's your decision. Univolts can sometimes be fixed. If I was going to put the time in to pulling the sucker I would just toss it and put in a newer, better unit.
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Old 09-27-2007, 10:21 AM   #6
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Rivet Hummmm

A newer unit would get rid of that too.
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Old 09-27-2007, 10:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowldawg
If I 'm not getting that voltage is it repairable or add it to the growing pile of junk that I'm accumulating ?
There are several reasons to 'junk' the Univolt:

* it was good in it's time, but that time has passed
* you will cook your batteries if left plugged in for extended periods.
*they hum and the new converters are almost silent, unless of course you like the hum
* New converters like the WFCO and new Parallax Temp-Assure use 3-stage charging for happy, long lasting batteries and the Parallax uses a temperature probe to vary the charge voltage dependand on the battery temps.

You can contact 68 Overlander, who owns Best RV Supply at BestConverter - Inteli-Power, WFCO, Parallax, Xantrex, Samlex, Electrical Supplies for more info on these and others that he sells.
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