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Old 08-19-2017, 09:53 AM   #1
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1993 25' Excella
Orfordville , Wisconsin
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Question Electrical help can't run light and radio at same time

Hopefully someone can give me some help. I just recently bought a 93 airstream Excella 25. I have it hooked up to my house electrical on a 20 amp breaker. Airconditioner works fine(separate breaker right). I can have lights and vents on at same time, but cannot have radio or fridge on at the same time with lights. Any idea what's goin on? Is it a battery issue, converter issue? Converter is original, don't know about batteries. Fridge is new.

Any help is much appreciated.
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Old 08-19-2017, 10:33 AM   #2
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Does the converter have AC power?
Are you blowing fuses?
What is the state of charge of the battery(s)?
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Old 08-19-2017, 11:30 AM   #3
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I'm not blowing fuses, but lights dim if I have multiple on at the same time. Batteries show full charge on control panel. There is power from the house, as I can run the Air Conditioner. How would I know if there is power to the converter?
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Old 08-19-2017, 11:53 AM   #4
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I would unplug from the house and then connect a battery charger to the battery and see if you have the same problem. Lights, radio and vents should run off of DC. I don't run my refrigerator on DC only gas and AC. If you see improvement then charge the batteries with your charger and have them checked at the local auto store. If you still have the problem troubleshoot the converter.
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Old 08-19-2017, 12:04 PM   #5
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Hi

If you have a multimeter, take a look at the battery voltage. If you don't yet have one, head over to Home Depot and spend $20 on one. Without the ability to measure this and that, you will spend a lot of time guessing ....

More or less:

1) Battery voltage with nothing going on (should be about 12.6V)
2) Battery voltage with converter running > 24 hours (should be about 13.5V)
3) Battery voltage with converter running and any one load (should be > 13V)

Yes, there's a lot more on that list, but it's enough to get you started.

Bob
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Old 08-19-2017, 12:27 PM   #6
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Warren , Manitoba
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Your fridge requires both 12v and 110 v to operate. The 12v runs the control system, and either 110v or gas runs the cooling. Do you still have the original power converter? If so, I would suggest that it is time to upgrade to a new 3 or 4 stage converter. Do a load test on your batteries to see if they are good. Have you checked the liquid level in the batteries? Good luck and keep us informed.
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Old 08-19-2017, 12:49 PM   #7
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Will have to head out and get a multimeter. I did just test the battery with the control panel and when nothing on, showed full charge, but with just a vent fan on the control panel read the battery as no charge..... I do know that the gentleman who owned the airstream before me never turned the univolt converter off, would that be an issue?
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Old 08-19-2017, 01:06 PM   #8
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Have you checked the battery connections?
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Old 08-19-2017, 01:38 PM   #9
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Checked batteries getting a reading of 12.25V. Connections are good and clean.
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Old 08-19-2017, 01:50 PM   #10
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Hi

If the batteries go to zero with load, then either:

1) The batteries are toast

2) The batteries are not connected.

My bet would be number one. It's a 50 / 50 chance

Bob
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Old 08-19-2017, 01:59 PM   #11
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1993 25' Excella
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Ok so here's what I'm finding.... Batteries(on control panel go to lowest reading with multiple lights or fan on). I don't think the converter works at all as I hear no humming at all??? I apologize if I sound very uneducated this is my first travel trailer/airstream.....
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Old 08-19-2017, 02:20 PM   #12
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Hi

When you plug in / power up the converter, the battery voltage should go up on the multimeter. You can have various issues that make the monitor pannel do strange things. If it goes up, the converter is at least functional. A more precise check is to pull the batteries and then energize the converter. In that case you should see about 13.5V.

Bob
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Old 08-19-2017, 02:21 PM   #13
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If you are getting no "humm" from the converter, it is probably not working. Check to see if the 110v breaker that supplies power to the converter has tripped. The converter only works when it has 110v shore power to run it. When you are plugged into shore power, the converter takes poweran converts it to 12v and charges your batteries. I am betting that your bbatteries are very low. Disconnect 1 battery, and put a battery charger on it any bring up to full charge.
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Old 08-20-2017, 05:36 AM   #14
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1993 25' Excella
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So no voltage increase when plugged in to shore power, which I believe must be a result of the converter not working. I think the batteries are good, as after towing it home from Ohio everything worked good(batteries must have been fully charged). The voltage output from the batteries is slowly decreasing, result of batteries being drained as wife is working inside with vents running.

If I replace the converter should I just do the batteries at the same time?

I'm assuming I can just charge the batteries myself right now with a charger?
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Old 08-20-2017, 06:51 AM   #15
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Yes, use a charger.
The modern converters will work without battery(s). Unless one or both are bad I would not replace them until you are sure they are bad.
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Old 08-20-2017, 07:19 AM   #16
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Hi

Put the batteries you have on a trickle charger (Battery Tender is one brand) and let them sit while in storage.

How old are the batteries? If they are 5 or more years old, replace them. They have lived a long and good life. If they are newer, get them tested. If they are miss matched (different brands or ages) replace them both.

Bob
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:04 AM   #17
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The problem with testing batteries with a voltmeter is you're only looking at a surface charge. You may read 12.5v. but when a load is added, the voltage drops to 10v. (dead) In a lead acid battery with water, you can test the specific gravity of the fluid with a cheap hydrometer. ($5 or less)
Sealed batteries may be tested at a battery store or Interstate Batteries/Sears/etc. They test with a load and it's free.
Old batteries are always suspect.
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