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Old 08-10-2009, 03:51 PM   #29
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2004 28' Classic
Kenney , Texas
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Hi Wmarsha:

Thanks for the explanations.

Some responses:

1. Yes, the AC was replaced rather recently. It's controlled via a digital thermostat - don't know if there's any 12V involvement there or not.
2. I removed the converter from the trailer altogether, and connected it to a shore 110VAC outlet, via the inline GFCI, which tripped when I plugged in the converter. That would eliminate 12V for sure, I would think.

The unit is under warranty, and the Parallax Power Systems guy I talked to couldn't think of any more diagnostic procedures ... so I've requested an RGA.

Thanks for your interest and suggestions.

Dave Jenkins
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Old 08-10-2009, 04:09 PM   #30
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all of that, and it was right where you initially thought! good for you!

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Old 08-14-2009, 09:16 AM   #31
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Grand Junction , Colorado
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Dave, congratulations for sticking with this somewhat crazy problem and is does appear, as bill says, you figured it out right away. Trailer electrical systems are very, very confusing.

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Old 08-14-2009, 10:11 AM   #32
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Thanks, Gene.

The saga is almost over - the replacement converter was airshipped but UPS tried to deliver to wrong city. We still haven't received it!

But I'm hopeful it will go in easily (once it gets here) and we can be on our way.
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:43 AM   #33
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Makes me wonder why the Camping World tech thought it was an AC problem. Was the circuit tripping when it was at Camping World? If so, it doesn't seem logical they would have thought the problem was solved when the replaced the AC. Surely they tested everything once the AC was replaced, and if the circuit wasn't tripping then it seems to me the problem was back at home.

Did you actually test the trailer somewhere other than your own house? If not how did you eliminate that as the the source of your problem.

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Old 08-14-2009, 10:56 AM   #34
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Earlier in the thread a comment was made about voltmeters. In the DC and in the AC volts measurement setting, non-broken VOMs have a high impedance on the leads, usually at least 50,000 ohms per volt. This means you can probe any circuit that has less than 600 volts on it without affecting the circuit itself.

Where you want to be super careful is in the AMPs switch position. In this position, the VOM looks like a dead short to any circuit and things can get dramatic quickly. Because of this, some VOMs have an internal 10 amp fuse in-line with the leads when in this mode.

As always, if you are nervous about dealing with an electrical problem, seek out help from an experienced friend. That little nervous voice in your head could save your life!
Okemos, MI
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Old 08-14-2009, 11:00 AM   #35
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Kenney , Texas
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Hi Carol:

To answer your second question first: I tested the converter outside of the trailer, and with the trailer disconnected from 120 altogether.

Camping World did not replace the AC - they just diagnosed it as being bad. They (and other dealers, too) have had troubles with the Dometic supply chain, due to a fire at the Dometic factory. CW was entirely unhelpful about finding a replacement unit, anyplace in the US, so I was on my own as far as that was concerned. I finally found a unit about 90 mi. from here (Buda, TX) and they did the actual replacement.

In retrospect, and of course with 20-20 hindsight, it may be that CW misdiagnosed the original problem. We took it to them for the following symptoms: breaker tripping (same GFCI breaker) and compressor not coming on. It may well be (but we'll never know) that either we misreported the compressor problem, or somehow (I don't know how that would work) the tripped GFCI caused that compressor not to run. (With the new AC installed, even though the converter/GFCI problem still existed, the new AC runs like a champ.)

Dave Jenkins
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breaker, compressor, converter, parallax, trip

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