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Old 08-17-2011, 02:57 PM   #1
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Deep cycle battery not charging

I have a 1977 argosy rv with a deep cycle battery not charging... am I correct to say when driving the vehicle the alternator should charge this battery, and when the vehicle is plugged into household current?
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Old 08-17-2011, 03:06 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamscuba2 View Post
I have a 1977 argosy rv with a deep cycle battery not charging... am I correct to say when driving the vehicle the alternator should charge this battery, and when the vehicle is plugged into household current?
You are correct "IF" the charging systems are OK.

Andy
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:34 PM   #3
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You could start by getting rid of those cables on the left (in pic) battery, those cable ends are a weak link.

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Old 08-18-2011, 01:04 PM   #4
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I don't mean to hijack this thread--but I have a related question. I had my'69 Safari worked on by prof techs--all electrical, plumbing, etc. New deep cycle battery installed. I am working on interior and the battery was only powering the 12v lights. It stayed charged for several months just running the lights (refer doesn't work). Then when it got really hot, I got a dog bone adapter to plug my trailer cord to my household outlet. Turned on the a/c, and it ran for about 15 min. then stopped. It is the original a/c, so I figured it died on me. Then I noticed that the battery was slowly dying out (lights getting dimmer) and now I have no battery power. I kept the cord plugged into my household power, but still no charge. Did my adapter cause this to happen? Thanks for any help!
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Old 08-18-2011, 01:30 PM   #5
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Sara,

Was the outlet 30amps?

It may be the AC tripped the breaker.

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Old 08-18-2011, 10:22 PM   #6
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Some breakers look like they are still ON even when they are tripped. Push the breaker switch FIRMLY to the OFF position to reset (it will feel like it goes a little past OFF), and then press FIRMLY to the ON position.

Your air conditioner may run for a few minutes on a 15-amp circuit, but eventually, the extra current draw will trip the circuit breaker. Assuming you were connected to a regular 15-amp circuit, your air conditioner is probably OK. However, continuing to use it like this will eventually damage it.

If you would like to use your air conditioner, just install a dedicated RV type 30-amp connector box. If you are unfamiliar with electrical and safety requirements, you should have an electrician or someone that is knowledgeable do the work for you. It doesn't cost too much, and you may find that the convenience of having a 30-amp electrical hookup at your home is worth the price.

FYI, the connector box is about $30 or so at Home Depot or Lowes. However, you will also need conduit, elbows, wire and a 30-amp breaker for a proper installation; all of which are relatively inexpensive. The labor cost for an electrician is what will cost the most. If you have a friend or neighbor that knows how to install it, a cold beverage or two might cover the labor (after the work is done, of course, if they contain an octane booster). Please note that it may pay to have this professionally done, since the chance for electrocution and fire exists, plus possible damage to your Airstream if the box is wired incorrectly.
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Old 08-19-2011, 12:38 AM   #7
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The answer is yes but since you have a 1977 product, I hope the Univolt had been upgraded to a modern converter. That is the first problem with any RV prior to about 1999 before modern switching power supplies hit the market. Ideally you want a 3 stage. The cables do look a little sketchy but I'm sure they are sending current if they are at least making contact. I would replace those too when you replace the converter (Univolt) Let me know if you have any questions.
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Old 08-19-2011, 04:17 AM   #8
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Bob, My connection was 30 amp male to 15 Amp female, into my household power.
Phoenix, I checked the breakers and they did not looked tripped--I flipped them back and forth, but didn't use a lot of pressure. I figured that the a/c must have tripped the breaker, but thought I was looking at the wrong place. I have 3 breaker switches in a box in the front--is that the only ones? Randy, when I had the "guts" overhauled, I did replace the converter, but I haven't looked at that.
A dedicated 30 Amp.connector box looks like the way to go. And don't worry--I will NOT attempt this myself. I'll bet I could fry myself as well as I do a thanksgiving turkey! And speaking of thanks--you guys are the best! Appreciate the help!
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