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Old 06-04-2016, 05:50 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxite View Post
I notice a lot of late-model owners are reluctant to keep the battery in "use" (ON or Charging) mode when stored and hooked up to shore power.
If your Airstream is a later model (mine is a 2008) it is likely equipped with a multi-stage power supply and will "taper" or "trickle/maintain" charge your battery if it's kept in "use" (ON) mode, just fine. Check your battery water level every few months or so.

Only if you do NOT have a multi-stage power supply would it make any sense to disconnect the battery when hooked up to shore power.

The "store" position has almost no valid use other than to remove it from shore power re-charge circuit because of a defective or single-stage power supply when the coach is not being used for any purpose. (And even then, I cannot figure out why a propane detector should be continually powered when the vehicle is disabled in storage and no one is around to hear the detector.)

(I agree that a battery minder hooked up to a disconnected battery is a good idea for those with older, single-stage chargers/pwr-supplies.... but again, if the battery is disconnected and no shore power...then there's no propane detection going on either.... so why would it be req'd to be powered if no one is around simply because the battery is connected?) (Ans. NOT)
The Use/Store switch is useful for folks who boondock and are not connected to shore power. When they leave the trailer, they can simply select Store and know that all their loads are disconnected. I have a 2015 Classic and Airstream still only supplied me with single-stage converter - so the Store/Use switch is also used to isolate the converter when connected to shore power.

Now, given there's utility in the Store/Use switch, if I had to choose where to connect the propane detector I would probably keep it connected to the batteries. Why? Because although the probability of having an LP leak is low, the consequence is fatal, so connecting the detector directly to the batteries avoids the case where someone is in the trailer and left the Store/Use switch in the Store position, or there was a failure of the battery disconnect relay. Either way, when the consequence is fatal, the detector should be powered from the most reliable source.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:15 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxite View Post
I notice a lot of late-model owners are reluctant to keep the battery in "use" (ON or Charging) mode when stored and hooked up to shore power.
If your Airstream is a later model (mine is a 2008) it is likely equipped with a multi-stage power supply and will "taper" or "trickle/maintain" charge your battery if it's kept in "use" (ON) mode, just fine. Check your battery water level every few months or so.

Only if you do NOT have a multi-stage power supply would it make any sense to disconnect the battery when hooked up to shore power.

The "store" position has almost no valid use other than to remove it from shore power re-charge circuit because of a defective or single-stage power supply when the coach is not being used for any purpose. (And even then, I cannot figure out why a propane detector should be continually powered when the vehicle is disabled in storage and no one is around to hear the detector.)

(I agree that a battery minder hooked up to a disconnected battery is a good idea for those with older, single-stage chargers/pwr-supplies.... but again, if the battery is disconnected and no shore power...then there's no propane detection going on either.... so why would it be req'd to be powered if no one is around simply because the battery is connected?) (Ans. NOT)

Airstream is still using the single voltage 'dumb' power converters to charge their OEM Interstate batteries.

To my knowledge, they have NEVER used a multi stage converter in any trailer except for a few selected 22 Sport models.

Every Airstream trailer I have worked on, including a new '16 FC 28 still use the Parallax converter with the 13.6 VDC constant output.


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Old 06-06-2016, 02:50 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alano View Post
The Use/Store switch is useful for folks who boondock and are not connected to shore power. When they leave the trailer, they can simply select Store and know that all their loads are disconnected. I have a 2015 Classic and Airstream still only supplied me with single-stage converter - so the Store/Use switch is also used to isolate the converter when connected to shore power.

Now, given there's utility in the Store/Use switch, if I had to choose where to connect the propane detector I would probably keep it connected to the batteries. Why? Because although the probability of having an LP leak is low, the consequence is fatal, so connecting the detector directly to the batteries avoids the case where someone is in the trailer and left the Store/Use switch in the Store position, or there was a failure of the battery disconnect relay. Either way, when the consequence is fatal, the detector should be powered from the most reliable source.
Re: Boondocking: Most newer trailers with a store/use switch require 12v to keep the fridge running, and putting it in Store cuts that off.
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Old 06-08-2016, 10:18 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster View Post
Airstream is still using the single voltage 'dumb' power converters to charge their OEM Interstate batteries.

To my knowledge, they have NEVER used a multi stage converter in any trailer except for a few selected 22 Sport models.

Every Airstream trailer I have worked on, including a new '16 FC 28 still use the Parallax converter with the 13.6 VDC constant output.


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Thanks for the edjamacation, Lew.

Those owners who have older single-stage converters might like this option:
http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/Mag...tructional.pdf
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:04 AM   #61
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I'm hating my batteries. After 3 and a half weeks in storage my OEM interstate 24s went from 13 volts to 10.2. Supposed to be leaving this am for a camping trip. Pulled both batteries last night and have them on a battery tender, one at a time as our storage unit had no available power. Yes my trailer was in store mode. One battery, after 6 hours on the charger, read 12.5v, so I put the charger on the other battery. This am that same battery reads 11.48. Not a happy camper.
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:44 PM   #62
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Well, both my OEM Interstate group 24 batteries tested with dead cells, one month after the one year warranty was up. Called my dealer and was basically told, bummer dude. So I purchased Trojan replacements for them, which should be plug and play as they are the same size. The Trojans, however, come with a four year warranty.

I will, from now on, disconnect the batteries from the trailer any time I'm not using it for more than a day or two.

Mike
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:18 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caffeinated View Post
Well, both my OEM Interstate group 24 batteries tested with dead cells, one month after the one year warranty was up. Called my dealer and was basically told, bummer dude. So I purchased Trojan replacements for them, which should be plug and play as they are the same size. The Trojans, however, come with a four year warranty.

I will, from now on, disconnect the batteries from the trailer any time I'm not using it for more than a day or two.

Mike
Mike,

If they are 6VDC batteries, a simple disconnect is to remove the series cable between the #1 battery positive terminal and the #2 battery negative terminal. This allows you to leave your main terminals in tact.

If they are 12VDC batteries, just disconnect the negative terminal leading into the coach. Better yet to add a Blue Sea Systems 'M-Series' disconnect to the positive lead. Simple....effective....works every time for a total and complete disconnect that leaves the sparks inside the batteries!!!!!
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Old 12-10-2016, 02:41 AM   #64
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So after all this time think I figured what was causing my "parasitic" draw that kept draining my batteries. Apparently, behind the TV is an antennae booster that uses power and has a green light to indicate this is on. Never knew it was there but I believe it's not part of the bus system that gets shut off when the battery disconnect switch does. (Not positive on that.)

The second BIG draw was the light that is up in the cargo area underneath the bed. It's one of those white dome lights with the slide switch on it. I had no idea it was there (it's extreme helpful though now that I've discovered it!) and it is easily turned on by shifting cargo. This light is definitely not on the battery disconnect switch and quite possibly could have been on since I bought it. I very seldom (if ever) go in there at night and the light itself cannot be seen.

There we have it folks! No parasites, just a few amps coming from switches in the "on" position.
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