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Old 02-08-2016, 09:37 AM   #15
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Even with the switch off there is a draw, will kill batteries in a week , best to charge then disconnect the batteries...
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:59 PM   #16
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1. The propane detector...however it only takes about 6 to 10 mA, not enough to drain the batteries in a month.
I just checked the propane detector manual that came with my 2015 30' Classic and the current drain is 75 mA. It's still not enough to drain the battery, but it's not insignificant.
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Old 02-08-2016, 01:30 PM   #17
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I just checked the propane detector manual that came with my 2015 30' Classic and the current drain is 75 mA. It's still not enough to drain the battery, but it's not insignificant.
Yes, that is much more than the actual measured current (with a Fluke multi meter) on my 2014 FC 20. I am not where I can look at the propane detector and tell you the model I have.

Apparently different propane detectors can have quite different draws.
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Old 02-08-2016, 02:31 PM   #18
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While in storage, does it do anything bad if I disconnect the battery, but leave the shore power cable plugged into a 15/20A receptacle?

...or if it's plugged in, no need to worry about disconnecting the battery?
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Old 02-08-2016, 04:38 PM   #19
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While in storage you can disconnect the battery and stay plugged into shore power just fine. If it's connected to shore power in storage and your disconnect switch is in the "Use" position, you'll ruin your batteries. If you select the "Store" position, your batteries won't overcharge, but you might deplete them more than the suggested 50% depending how long you leave them in storage.

So unless you have a three stage charger like a Battery Tender while in storage it's best to disconnect the negative terminal. Other folks change out their converter for one that includes a three-stage battery charger. This is a good solution if you don't have a solar charger. For the folks that have a solar charger (which includes a three-stage charger), they often keep the stock converter.
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Old 02-08-2016, 05:03 PM   #20
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Our experience with a single Group 24 battery on our Sport 22FB is that the battery will be drained down in about 4-6 weeks, even if the switch is in the "store" position. I assume that this is the propane detector, which is wired to bypass the cut off switch.

We store indoors and have access to 110v power, so my practice now is to leave the switch on "store" and hook up the battery to a BatteryMINDer battery tender. Seems to work fine. Do be sure and regularly check the water levels.
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Old 02-08-2016, 05:12 PM   #21
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Cannonball, my experience with BatterMINDers is that if you hook it to a timer and set for three hours a day, it's easier on the battery and does not evaporate batt. fluid nearly as fast. I tried two hours and that wasn't quite enough to keep the battery charged, but you may wish to experiment with this.
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Old 02-08-2016, 05:23 PM   #22
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That's a good idea. Did you just use a lamp timer, or something more robust?


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Old 02-08-2016, 06:15 PM   #23
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It's low draw, so a lamp timer should work just fine. I got mine at Wal-Mart.
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Old 02-08-2016, 08:12 PM   #24
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Yes, that is much more than the actual measured current (with a Fluke multi meter) on my 2014 FC 20.
Just poking around trying to figure out why LP detectors consume so much current and I found this...
"At the heart of every propane detector is the sensor which uses the difference between the electrical properties of oxygen and propane to trigger an alarm. The miniature sensor (about the size of the eraser on the end of a pencil) contains 2 main components. One is a layer of metal oxide semiconductor material - usually tin dioxide. The second is a miniature heater, which keeps the semiconductor at a constant high temperature- around 400 C - which it needs to function properly."
Given that the sensor is heated up to 400 deg C, it's not surprising to see 75 mA. I'd be curious to know if your detector is for propane or just carbon monoxide.
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Old 02-08-2016, 08:47 PM   #25
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Naw, its the mice partying in the back bottom drawer; disco lights and power amps and everything electric. You did find allllll the lights bulbs in allll the outside bins our cadillac Airstreams have in every bin? I still have something that kills my batteries...dang partying mice..
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:55 PM   #26
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My propane detector and my CO detector are separate, the propane being at floor level under the refrigerator.
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Old 02-09-2016, 05:35 AM   #27
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Unplugged in and store switch in off batteries on the average AS will be depleted in 4 weeks, 5 tops. I've done it on purpose several times in the past. As has been suggested take the batteries out, put them on a battery tender in your garage and charge them up. They should come back as these are deep cycle "golf cart" batteries and can be taken to zero and brought back with a good hard charge. I was GM of a golf car company and we had about 40,000 of this type battery in my area my technicians maintained all year - up north. Also, if your battery disconnect switch is in the OFF position while towing your truck/car will not charge your batteries.
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:36 PM   #28
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3. The optional inverter (factory wiring). If left on it will kill the batteries in short order, less than a week. It takes about 1.7 to 2 amps even if nothing else is on. It is not shut off with the USE/STORE switch. It also can take a small amount of power, even when shut off, but I have not measured the exact amount. About the same as the propane detector I would guess.

This is definitely what I did wrong. When I was winterizing it I was off shore power but needed an outlet for something (dead laptop used to stream the "how to" video probably!) so I flipped the inverter on. It was the first and only time I'd done this and never would have guessed this could cause any issues.
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