Dead Batteries on eve of maiden voyage

[Silverfox58]

Newbie here, taking off tomorrow for first trip in our FC 25. Since we took delivery, she has been stored offsite at an inside storage facility for about 5 weeks. Went to fetch her today and batteries were dead, even though I had the battery disconnect switch on 'store.'
I hope I am correct that once we hook up to shore power, the batteries will recharge since they did not freeze (hand cranking gets old quick). I am surprised that the LP sensor could run down the batteries in only 5 weeks - is this normal?
Thanks!

[NoResults]

Yes it could do it. If you are storing without hpokups you need to disconnect your batteries or get a disconnect switch such as those bt Blue Sea
Dave

[ROBERT CROSS]

Yes...unfortunately it happens all too often.
A battery isolation switch will stop the parasitic draw.
You can also remove the neg cables.

Charge your batteries fully, test or have them tested and replace if needed. If they test bad Interstate will pro rate them if the dealer is no help.

Good Luck..

Bob
🇺🇸

[Silverfox58]

Thanks for the replies, I don't expect that she'll be alone for more than three weeks through October, but I'll go ahead and remove the cable during those periods.

[A W Warn]

Haven't you owned your trailer only a few months? If your dealer stored the trailer prior to delivery, perhaps they did not store properly and damaged the batteries before you got them. It happens often.

If this is the case, I would ask the dealer to make them good.

[Prettygood]

I installed a small 10w solar panel on the lid of the propane tank. If you are storing indoors, that won’t help any. If you do need to replace, consider upgrading to AGM for the hassle free maintenance. Still need to charge, but don’t need to deal with water levels and such.

[Silverfox58]

Thanks Alan, that's a great point. It's a 2018 that undoubtedly sat on the lot for months and months until I took delivery in March (can't put my finger on the dealer delivery date at the moment.) I'll definitely take this up with them.

[A W Warn]

When you hook up the cord to the tow vehicle, the jack should work after a moment or two, even though the batteries are dead. Keep the engine running.

[Silverfox58]

Thanks - I did plug the 7-way in with TV running for awhile and still nothing. Probably a blown fuse, it happened the first time I used it but I didn't think to replace it this time. I will do that tomorrow.

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by Silverfox58

Newbie here, taking off tomorrow for first trip in our FC 25. Since we took delivery, she has been stored offsite at an inside storage facility for about 5 weeks. Went to fetch her today and batteries were dead, even though I had the battery disconnect switch on 'store.'
I hope I am correct that once we hook up to shore power, the batteries will recharge since they did not freeze (hand cranking gets old quick). I am surprised that the LP sensor could run down the batteries in only 5 weeks - is this normal?
Thanks!

They are probably gone south...no bigge...install new ones....or try to charge

[A W Warn]

Make sure you have the correct type of fuse, a slow blow/time delay fuse, not just a regular quick acting 30 amp fuse. There should be a part number for the fuse in the jack pamphlet that should have been included with the documents the dealer supplied at the time of purchase.
NAPA usually has these fuses.

[OTRA15]

Probably "lot rot" plus parasitic draw-down to zip . . . suggest two new matching batteries either under warranty or your own dime.

Baptism by fire . . . sorry to say.

Welcome to the forum, and the joys of toys . . .



Cheers,

Peter

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

Make sure you have the correct type of fuse, a slow blow/time delay fuse, not just a regular quick acting 30 amp fuse. There should be a part number for the fuse in the jack pamphlet that should have been included with the documents the dealer supplied at the time of purchase.
NAPA usually has these fuses.

Our local NAPA does FWIW.

Peter

[KenMcD]

Originally Posted by Prettygood

I installed a small 10w solar panel on the lid of the propane tank. If you are storing indoors, that won’t help any. If you do need to replace, consider upgrading to AGM for the hassle free maintenance. Still need to charge, but don’t need to deal with water levels and such.

Hi Prettygood, I really like your idea. If you don’t mind sharing, would you please provide some more details about this 10W solar panel? What was the actual product and how did you mount it?

[Piggy Bank]

Yes Please
A small tank top solar panel is a great idea

[A W Warn]

I studied this when planning for my 34' trailer stored 700 miles away from home, but never acted on it:
A small solar panel, one designed specifically for battery charging with a built in controller, mounted flat on top of the propane cover lid. The charge wire can be connected to the tongue jack wire if the batteries are inside the coach or directly to the battery if inside an exterior box, so no complicated wiring or controls are needed.

I like this one:
http://products.batterytender.com/So...ontroller.html

[Caffeinated]

Originally Posted by Silverfox58

Newbie here, taking off tomorrow for first trip in our FC 25. Since we took delivery, she has been stored offsite at an inside storage facility for about 5 weeks...batteries were dead, even though I had the battery disconnect switch on 'store.'

The use/store switch is NOT a battery disconect switch. Depending on how your AS was built, you are probably feeding constant current to your, propane detector, subwoofer, inverter, and maybe some other intertainment electronics. In my 2015 FC, the batteries will be dead in less that a week unless I physically disconect them.

I learned the hard way too. My original group 24 interstates lasted exactly 13 months before they were worthless, one month past the warrenty period. The Trojan wet cells I replaced them with have been great, now that I know that they need to be disconnected when in storage.

Mike

[GeeSag]

I had big suspicions to the sub-Woofer adding a fair amount to the parasitic draw.

Never got around to testing it to be sure.

Anyone devised a good way to measure the parasitic draw?
A good way to hook up a DC Ampmeter in series? I assume DC requires the amp meter to be in series.


Anyone got data on the draw of the various parasitic devices?

[OTRA15]

FYI "parasitic loads" results here: https://www.google.com/search?q=para...com&gws_rd=ssl


FYI/FWIW

[PKI]

My approach to parasitic draw was more direct - eliminate it with a disconnect. Any load will vary with conditions. A "no load" does not vary. One can not ignore the impact of time on degrading the bank charge, but one can address the connected load. Your coach, your money, your approach to upgrade resolutions. Enjoy the adventure. Research before you leap. Pat

Note - A disconnect is for storage only. It kills break-away capability, LPG sensor and similar safety features. Reconnect the bank before you return the rig to use. Check bank charge status before you tow.

Sub woofer - moved to garage shelf = no load from it and the space under the seat is available for important storage.