Converting to 6v batteries

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by marter

I didn't think the few extra amp hours were worth the $30/ea either. I must have been living right that day though; I asked the guy who brought them out to my truck "how do I lift these" and he went in and got one of those straps and gave it to me. They're a lifesaver for these old bones and muscles.

Mike

Yup. But it still takes BOTH hands and a fair amount of grunt...these batteries are basically big chunks of lead in a plastic box. (Thank-you, Captain Obvious...)

[marter]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Yup. But it still takes BOTH hands and a fair amount of grunt...these batteries are basically big chunks of lead in a plastic box. (Thank-you, Captain Obvious...)

And my grunt's all but left town...

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by marter

And my grunt's all but left town...

--And most days, my "get-up-and-go" done "got-up-and-went".

[gypsydad]

Well, installed the 6V T-105 Trojans today and they fit fine in the battery box, however, the terminal clamps on the power/negative cables had to be forced open wider to fit the terminals on the battery, which required a little filling and some maneuvering to get them wide enough to fit; not straight forward. In and out a couple times. Also, the new posts have the threaded connection for the smaller cables in the center of the main posts, so I had to use a washer to get bottom of the nut to seat above the main post, and the nut just gets a 2-3 turns to tighten...I would like to see a longer threaded post for more turns, but the tension should work for now. Any thoughts/advise from others who have done this switch on how they made the other wire connections with this issue?

[marter]

Have you considered crimp on ring terminals? I went to those primarily to be able to disconnect during storage but I think it also makes for a better connection, in my opinion. See my pic earlier in this thread. Others may have different opinions.

I bought the Central Hydraulics crimper at Harbor Freight for around $55 and I'm happy with it. 90 day return policy with receipt, but it's worked great so far.

At check out they gave me a flyer with a coupon for 25% off good on Sept. 3 only. She said it would apply. No, I'm not going to return it and then buy it again with the coupon.

Happy trails,
Mike

[Grateful26]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Well, installed the 6V T-105 Trojans today and they fit fine in the battery box, however, the terminal clamps on the power/negative cables had to be forced open wider to fit the terminals on the battery, which required a little filling and some maneuvering to get them wide enough to fit; not straight forward. In and out a couple times. Also, the new posts have the threaded connection for the smaller cables in the center of the main posts, so I had to use a washer to get bottom of the nut to seat above the main post, and the nut just gets a 2-3 turns to tighten...I would like to see a longer threaded post for more turns, but the tension should work for now. Any thoughts/advise from others who have done this switch on how they made the other wire connections with this issue?

I wonder if you (or anyone) could help me with the cables.
I have my new box built and bought the two GC2’s at Sam’s.
Is there a site or link somewhere where I can get the short cables to run them in series? Thanks.
M

[NoResults]

You could check with a local battery store. They could make the cables up for you. Also check Amazon (battery cables) you can order them in various lengths.

Dave

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by Grateful26

I wonder if you (or anyone) could help me with the cables.
I have my new box built and bought the two GC2’s at Sam’s.
Is there a site or link somewhere where I can get the short cables to run them in series? Thanks.
M

Check with a truck dealer.freightliner, Peterbilt, kw...

[TouringDan]

Grateful26

I just replaced two GC2’s that have worked well in my 66 Tradewind for 8 years. All you need is a short jumper cable. I can send you mine if you like.

Dan

[68 Overlander]

Make sure it has these terminals! "Bout fell up outta my chair!"
Walmart.com

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by 68 Overlander

Make sure it has these terminals! "Bout fell up outta my chair!"
Walmart.com

Randy

Me too when I saw the price- $104 plus shipping for 25 terminals. Copper isn’t good enough, you need tinned copper? I don’t understand. Please explain.

Thanks, Dan

[rmkrum]

Tinned copper resists battery acid a bit better. Plain copper quickly corrodes green around battery acid fumes.
There are more reasonable lugs that can be found on Amazon. Use only closed end lugs. Ditto short battery jumper assemblies.

Also, if you plan to crimp your own lugs, get a hydraulic crimping tool, and use marine grade double layer adhesive shrink tubing to protect the cable core from acid fumes. Cover the crimped part of the lug with the heat shrink and back an inch or so on the cable to do this.

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Tinned copper resists battery acid a bit better. Plain copper quickly corrodes green around battery acid fumes.
There are more reasonable lugs that can be found on Amazon. Use only closed end lugs. Ditto short battery jumper assemblies.

Also, if you plan to crimp your own lugs, get a hydraulic crimping tool, and use marine grade double layer adhesive shrink tubing to protect the cable core from acid fumes. Cover the crimped part of the lug with the heat shrink and back an inch or so on the cable to do this.

rmkrum

Thanks for the explanation. I guess I haven’t had any corrosion from battery acid or fumes because this cable is 8 years old.

I replaced the lead acid batteries with lithium Battle Born. I used plain copper terminals on these with heat shrink tubing so I guess this should be fine.

Dan

[Grateful26]

Thanks all. I did find some on Amazon but I have waited too long as they can’t be delivered until after we leave for Arizona. Via Austin so I may have them delivered there.
M

[uncle_bob]

Hi

The same terminals on Amazon are way cheaper. If you are on the road, there are lots of ways to get Amazon to ship to you. If you are going through a large city, there may be a retail outfit that sells them at a good price. *Finding* who that is may be a bit of a pain ....

Bob

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

Randy

Me too when I saw the price- $104 plus shipping for 25 terminals. Copper isn’t good enough, you need tinned copper? I don’t understand. Please explain.

Thanks, Dan

I was totally kidding Dan. Nothing makes them worth that in our applications.

[Fair_Enough]

I’ve been using a heavy duty grade of non tinned lugs for years. If yours are corroding you are not maintain your batteries. Good non tinned are about $2.50 .. I don’t think $1.50 each extra would break the bank. But why would 25 be necessary? Unless you’re going into the cable business. But, price good custom length #2/0 or #4/0 and you will want to make your own. If your near here I can make anything you need. One thing that is important is to get the correct lug with the correct hole size. Use a good heatshrink and get a good crimper. A 16 ton from Amazon is cheap enough. Also use machine tool wire (MTW). Plenty of good YouTube DIY vids out there, as well.
Clint

[uncle_bob]

Hi

The only possible solution is to use crimp connectors plated in GOLD ... now available at the Uncle Bob Web Store for only $1,207 each plus shipping ..... anything else is inferior and will result in excessive sway when you tow your trailer as well as poor acceleration in the mountains.

Note- if the gold rubs off when you handle them ... that's not our problem. You should be more careful ....

Somebody is making a lot of money on those Walmart connectors.

Bob

[Grateful26]

Ok, I have to thank y’all on this forum—and especially to Dan, who made a junction cable for my series and mailed it to me—for not only what I’ve learned so far about batteries but for helping me to realize how much more I need to learn. Which is exciting.
I finished my new battery box for our 16’ Sport and installed two GC2’s from Sam’s, in series. All is working great.

I started by building a base for my new box on top of the metal “bed” the OEM battery sat on, which I found very inadequate. I used U-bolts so I can easily take everything off to use on a new AS at some point.

Then I built a box large enough to ultimately fit 4 six volt batteries, if I decide to go that direction. And there would still be some room left.
I tried to make it match the AS as much as I could.
Again, thanks to Dan for the cable.
You’ll se that cable and my build in the attached pictures. IF....I can get them uploaded. If not, I guess this post makes no sense.. 😀
So, here they are. ???

M
———————

[Grateful26]

I should have mentioned that I next plan on adding a battery monitor but I have spent a ton at this point, so that can wait.
I did buy a 100 watt portable Renogy solar panel.
I also plan to epoxy the box, but I’m out of time, thus the plastic.
Leaving for Texas/Arizona on Wednesday.