Converting to 6v batteries

[Snerf]

Hey, what's the story with people swapping out stock converters that come with 201x AS for PD? I have a 90s Lazy Daze class C*, and Randy helped me out 6 years ago upgrading the very old single stage Parallax to a PD4645.

It was a very straightforward swap, and it's worked flawlessly ever since. But I would have figured that the stock (WFCO?) converter would at least handle 3 stage at this point? So, what's the advantage of immediately going with PD?

Also, love the never-ending discussion about batteries. I fall in the Costco GC2 camp; I badly mistreat mine, yet they still seem to work for 3-4 years before giving up the ghost. What's the weight differential? 70lbs x 2 vs ? If you keep the existing plastic box, doesn't seem like much more on the tongue.

Edit: Or is it really all about shortening the run by moving Li indoors closer to the converter/inverter/solar? Now that I get, with the added benefit of putting battery weight over the axles. In this case, where do people put them? Depends on the rig? How about a 19CB?

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* We're in the process of considering bailing from the class C to an AS travel trailer. Yes, the typical issues of storing an infrequently used & aging 1 ton dually vs actually using a 1/2 TV for daily tasks. OTOH, it's nice being able to drive & show up without any fuss. OTOH2, it would be nice to have a local means of transport upon arrival. (It's 22', so we don't haul a TOAD, rather the RV is the toad.)

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Snerf

Hey, what's the story with people swapping out stock converters that come with 201x AS for PD? I have a 90s Lazy Daze class C*, and Randy helped me out 6 years ago upgrading the very old single stage Parallax to a PD4645.

It was a very straightforward swap, and it's worked flawlessly ever since. But I would have figured that the stock (WFCO?) converter would at least handle 3 stage at this point? So, what's the advantage of immediately going with PD?

Also, love the never-ending discussion about batteries. I fall in the Costco GC2 camp; I badly mistreat mine, yet they still seem to work for 3-4 years before giving up the ghost. What's the weight differential? 70lbs x 2 vs ? If you keep the existing plastic box, doesn't seem like much more on the tongue.

Edit: Or is it really all about shortening the run by moving Li indoors closer to the converter/inverter/solar? Now that I get, with the added benefit of putting battery weight over the axles. In this case, where do people put them? Depends on the rig? How about a 19CB?

---

* We're in the process of considering bailing from the class C to an AS travel trailer. Yes, the typical issues of storing an infrequently used & aging 1 ton dually vs actually using a 1/2 TV for daily tasks. OTOH, it's nice being able to drive & show up without any fuss. OTOH2, it would be nice to have a local means of transport upon arrival. (It's 22', so we don't haul a TOAD, rather the RV is the toad.)

Converters: Prior to 2018, AS supplied a single stage converter; in 2018 they started supplying a 3 stage converter. Many of us replaced the single stage units in our AS trailers, with a 4 stage (multi stage) converter, like the PD or the Boondocker. The OEM single stage will cook the water out of your battery pretty quickly when left connected to shore power, unless you disconnect the batteries or install a kill switch disconnect. There are a couple good explanations on how these 4 stage converters work on the web sites, but essentially they recognize the state of the batteries and apply the needed charging voltage and revert in to a safe or float mode when the batteries are charged. Here is what the Boondocker advertises:

14.6 Boost Mode Output

13.6 Normal Mode Output
13.2 Float (trickle) Mode Output
Over-temp, Over-current Protection

105-130 VAC Input Operation
Reversed Polarity Voltage Protection
>85% Efficiency
Safe, Cool, Quiet & Reliable Operation
<1% Load Regulation
Filtered DC Output (Works with or without a battery)Thermostatically Controlled, Variable Speed Quiet Cooling Fan

The battery question has lots of good advice here...Li seem to be a solid choice if money is no issue...I have gone thru 4 AS trailers now, and have gone thru 3 sets of 12V batteries, AGM's, and now I moved to 6V Trojans...these seem fine for our needs, but I am very attracted to Li's if I do decide to switch...Randy has pretty great product and pricing in the Li's.

[Snerf]

Single stage is 80-90s technology. I didn't even know they were still available, much less installed on brand new AS up till last year. THOR strikes again? No wonder people were immediately swapping those dogs for PD. Regardless of rig, I would rate power management as maybe the #1 target for any upgrade.

14 gallons of propane and plenty of water - even if stored in an auxiliary tank in the TV - will give you week(s). But power is the limiting factor - if that's not optimized, you're not staying anyplace for very long off-grid.

GC2 work great, especially for the 210-220ah sweet spot. We use around 35-40 amps/day, so 3+- days without fill-up (solar or gen). They're cheap, plentiful and a low-cost swap and forget exercise.

Now, if one were getting serious about 400ah+ for hi-tech boondocking (satellite, big screen, etc), or re-wiring for solar, converter/inverter and wishing to limit the run, then I could see going with an Li bank inside next to the box.

Question is, where do people put them? Depends on the rig/floorplan?

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Converters: Prior to 2018The battery question has lots of good advice here...Li seem to be a solid choice if money is no issue...I have gone thru 4 AS trailers now, and have gone thru 3 sets of 12V batteries, AGM's, and now I moved to 6V Trojans...these seem fine for our needs, but I am very attracted to Li's if I do decide to switch...Randy has pretty great product and pricing in the Li's.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/LEFT]

I have two Battleborn drop in golfcart batteries and I love them. They are the same size as my old Sam’s Duracell GC batteries but they are 12v and have the terminals in front. It is hard to justify the cost, but zero maintenance, no ventilation required, a ten year warranty and seeing the voltage never dropping below 12.4 @ a 40 amp discharge while operating my 5k air conditioner or my electric heater (on low) for 4 hours makes me smile.

Dan

[Snerf]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

I have two Battleborn drop in golfcart batteries and I love them. They are the same size as my old Sam’s Duracell GC batteries but they are 12v and have the terminals in front. It is hard to justify the cost, but zero maintenance, no ventilation required, a ten year warranty and seeing the voltage never dropping below 12.4 @ a 40 amp discharge while operating my 5k air conditioner or my electric heater (on low) for 4 hours makes me smile.

DanAttachment 335227

Very nice. Is this your 24' or 34'? Where are these located? Do you have a diagram available? Did you go with AM or DIY?

Again, looks top notch.

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by Snerf

Very nice. Is this your 24' or 34'? Where are these located? Do you have a diagram available? Did you go with AM or DIY?

Again, looks top notch.

Snerf

Thanks for the compliment, it was DIY. They are located in the rear of my 66 Tradewind accessed from the rear hatch generally or from the inside in the winter when my Curve toilet is stored inside our home. There is a thread in the same category as this one with more photos and information. I don’t have a schematic. I really need to make one to help figure out any errors on my part or improvements needed.

Dan

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Snerf

Very nice. Is this your 24' or 34'? Where are these located? Do you have a diagram available? Did you go with AM or DIY?

Again, looks top notch.

Snerf- there are many threads here on the Forum with pictures and detailed installation information by ASers….also, suggest to check out Bestconverter.com if your getting serious about Li. I called Expion360 about their Li battery products and pricing; they referred me to Randy for best pricing.

[Snerf]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Snerf- there are many threads here on the Forum with pictures and detailed installation information by ASers….also, suggest to check out Bestconverter.com if your getting serious about Li. I called Expion360 about their Li battery products and pricing; they referred me to Randy for best pricing.

Like Rome, all roads lead back to Randy.

When I replaced my old Parallax single stage 7 years ago, everybody suggested I "talk to Randy". Well I did, and he set me up with a PD4645 that perfectly fit my requirements.

It wasn't until I started browsing the AS forums that I realized Randy was an AS dude himself. Outed! For some reason I thought he was a Lazy Daze guy, which is another group of obsessive RVers. That's why it's a natural fit to move from LD to AS, like another friend of mine.

[WizardOfAZ]

Hi all. An AS newbie here. 2018 FC 20FB. New to AS but have had other TT and RV for about 20 years.

Seems to me another small advantage to using 2 6V batteries in series is the simplicity of disconnect - just put a knife switch in the jumper between the two batteries. Eliminates the task of dealing with a switch at the terminals that have multiple connections. Sensible?

I just replaced 10 month old stock 12V Interstate batteries due to previous owner storing them connected (and dead) for months, thinking “store” switch was adequate. He needed a disconnect. I plan to put one in.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Wizardofaz

Hi all. An AS newbie here. 2018 FC 20FB. New to AS but have had other TT and RV for about 20 years.

Seems to me another small advantage to using 2 6V batteries in series is the simplicity of disconnect - just put a knife switch in the jumper between the two batteries. Eliminates the task of dealing with a switch at the terminals that have multiple connections. Sensible?

I just replaced 10 month old stock 12V Interstate batteries due to previous owner storing them connected (and dead) for months, thinking “store” switch was adequate. He needed a disconnect. I plan to put one in.

I also use the knife style switch, but there are a few recent knob type models which also are working fine and are enclosed from elements. Important thing is, disconnect when not in use!