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Old 06-25-2010, 10:57 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
...I found this out AFTER I bought the lower AH size...
ouch.

good info!

what was the $$ difference?

it's a jungle out there.
__________

the OTHER thing just noticed in the photo (beside the correct spelling for deKa) is the battery model...

according to the makers website this is a 'starter/deep cycle' battery designed to provide both functions.

it's also a 'marine' rated battery

and my understanding is the parameters (charge voltage, capacity)

are established at a DIFFERENT ambient/operating temperature for marine deep cycles.
________

mehbe mexray or 1 of the other juice wizards can explain these things (marine and starter/deep cycle combos)


cheers
2air'
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:55 PM   #16
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It's a marketing jungle out there when it comes to lead-acid batteries...everything is fine until some marketing 'genius' decides to change names on existing products....

1. Any deep cycle battery will 'start' an engine (depending on the size and type, of course), it just doesn't have as many CCA's as a pure 'starting' battery...'starting' batteries have many, thin plates to cram as much 'plate area' inside the battery case a possible...Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and special separators between the plates which means fewer plates in the same size battery case - less 'plate area', so it's CCA's aren't as high as a pure 'starting' battery - but it will still start an engine!

2. Some battery Mfg's sell a 'Marine Starting' battery - which is nothing but a 'starting' battery with additional marine type terminals on the top of the battery similar to most deep cycle marine/rv type batteries - don't be fooled in buying this battery for deep cycle applications it's much lighter and has thinner plates than a deep cycle - the 'Marine' wording fools some buyers...

3. In the most common types of Marine/RV batteries on vendors shelves that you'll see, there really isn't any difference inside the battery - they have deep cycle plates with appropriate plate separators and are used in both applications - the feeling that thicker plates stand up to the bouncing around many boats experience, as well as some RV's...

4. buy the heaviest deep cycle battery you can fit in your application - heavy means more battery plates... More plates in a deepcycle battery means higher Amp Hr ratings for extended running of your 12 volt stuff...

Ray
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Old 06-27-2010, 05:45 PM   #17
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Battery design trades off cost, capacity, and 'ruggedness' and manufacturers provide a line of batteries so customers can make the choice to best suit their needs. The differences in modern batteries of the sort used in RV's and commonly available at retail tend to be fairly small compared to what you can find in individual batteries from cycle to cycle variance, temperature, use profile, aging, and so on.

As far as batteries you are going to be able to use in your RV, the talk about 'deep cycle' and 'thick plates' and other such things (especially solid plates) is marketing hype. Look at the specifications and you'll see why.

Capacity for wet cell lead acid batteries is about 22 watt hours per pound with AGM's usually a bit less dense. If you want more capacity that means more weight. That usually means larger volume as well.

Don't get lost in the internal construction stuff. Look for reliable measures related to how you actually use the battery. These include cost, warranty, size, and capacity measures.
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Old 07-02-2010, 09:32 AM   #18
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Thanks again everyone for ALL the good info I went ahead and got 2 size 29 reg. Marine/RV batteries Had to notch out the lower framing in front a little (about 1/4"), but after doing this, they fit perfect Also put a timer on the converter set for 2 hrs. on daily.
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Old 12-02-2011, 08:47 AM   #19
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Like Sierra Papa in the original post, I store inside near 110V. I leave the battery disconnect "off" in storage. Every month I charge the batteries overnight. Otherwise, the batteries are disconnected through the winter. My batteries are two years old and no worse for wear, which included 120 nights of camping this year. I'd say that storing batteries in moderate temperatures, periodic charging (rather than a constant drain and recharge) and good electrolyte levels are the ways to extend battery life, not expensive AGMs, aftermarket chargers and inverters.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:03 AM   #20
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Like Sierra Papa in the original post, I store inside near 110V. I leave the battery disconnect "off" in storage. Every month I charge the batteries overnight. Otherwise, the batteries are disconnected through the winter. My batteries are two years old and no worse for wear, which included 120 nights of camping this year. I'd say that storing batteries in moderate temperatures, periodic charging (rather than a constant drain and recharge) and good electrolyte levels are the ways to extend battery life, not expensive AGMs, aftermarket chargers and inverters.
Um, if your 07 is wired like my 07, your OE "battery cutoff switch" does not cut off the batteries from the charger. It simply disconnects the coach systems from the charger and batteries. In other words, the charger, batteries, and some keep alive 12 circuits are all UPSTREAM from the cutoff switch. Unless you have added a cutoff switch at the batteries, they are still receiving a charge while shore power is hooked up and converter/charger is plugged in.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:08 AM   #21
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Right. I turn off the disconnect and unplug the camper from the 110V.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:10 AM   #22
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Right. I turn off the disconnect and unplug the camper from the 110V.
Ah, gotcha, I misunderstood your process. "Carry on"
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:13 AM   #23
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Just a note here on this OP.
The CHARGER noted below is not for AGM batteries, and if you read all posts you will find out why.
""""""Maintaining battery potency is a common problem when it hasn't been used for a while or if the weather's really cold. Skip the aggravation of recharging a battery... use this automatic battery charger to keep your vehicle's 12-volt battery fully charged, even when not in use or just used sporadically. The floating circuit maintains a full charge without overcharging like some other automatic battery chargers.
  • Maintain the charge of your 12-volt battery without overcharging
  • Automatic safety shutoff
  • Copper battery clamps
Not for use on AGM batteries""""

Again, I agree, that AGM is an expensive option that is not practical for the average camping experience. Far better investing in SOLAR, and practicing conservation with LED, etc.
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You can pick up a cheap 'float' charger to hook directly to your batteries so you don't have to keep the converter plugged in during storage...

Here's a cheapo that Harbor Freight sells - I've use these with success...

Automatic Battery Float Charger

Ray
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