Changing to AGM

[edglenn]

Guess I'm Old School. I still like my lead-acid wet batteries.
Just keep them topped off, excercise them regularly and use a 3 stage charger. Keep 'em vented, too.

[TG Twinkie]

I tend to agree with edglen. With proper maintenance the lead acid battery will serve one well. And when it comes time to replace one or more depending on the requirements of your trailer, you don't have to break the bank to replace them. I always remove the battery in my trailer when it is in storage. In my case I have other equipment that I can use the battery. This keeps the battery in use and results in a life span in excess of 4 years.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Gringo

POI....I followed lewster's advice and have no regrets. IOTA 55a IQ4 DLS and two grp27 Lifelines.

Bob

[Gringo]

Originally Posted by edglenn

Guess I'm Old School. I still like my lead-acid wet batteries.
Just keep them topped off, excercise them regularly and use a 3 stage charger. Keep 'em vented, too.

So, if you were in my position, trailer parked at a storage yard with no electric hookup available, in a place where the temperatures cross zero with regularity, roughly two thousand three hundred fifty miles, two countries, half a continent, and a small ocean away..... with your next visit six months in the future...?

Would you junk batteries every year? Hire someone local to look after them for you? Fly back at a cost of a couple thousand bucks roundtrip to take them out and charge them once a month? Look into AGM and solar trickle charging as an option? I'm open to all helpful suggestions and the benefit of your collective experiences. I am, after all, a newbie seeking wisdom.

[TG Twinkie]

Do you do a lot of dry camping? Or do you stay in places where power is available. If power is available you may not need any house batteries. But you will need one for the brakes to be legal.

[edglenn]

Well, if I were in your shoes, I suppose I'd consider several alternatives;
1- Could I store the trailer somewhere there IS electric hookup? This would allow for keeping the batteries properly charged (with a 3 stage charger), and also to wrap a couple coils of heat tape around the batteries to keep them from extreme freezing/cold.
2- Could I remove the batteries, and store them in a better location, to provide all the above listed items? It would take a few hours to re-install them, but from what you describe, it'll take you a day or two to get the trailer out of mothballs anyway. Surely you're using antifreeze, and purging the system, etc. This is just one more step.
3- I certainly would NOT throw away perfectly good batteries. At the very least, I'd sell them before I left, and buy replacements upon return.
4- Solar charging systems don't impress me, and I'M an electrical designer. They're nice toys, but won't save your batteries in hostiler sub-zero environments.
5- I wouldn't bother paying someone to maintain them every month. Good help's hard to find, and I don't think anyone is reliable anymore (except ME, of course!)
That's my 2 cents.

[tkowalyk]

I have a 2006 25 Safari SS. I had a short in one of the original batteries when the AS was about one year old. I replaced both of the batteries with lead acid batteries and make sure i keep them topped off. I installed a quick disconnect 3 amp marine charger and I use it a couple of times a year to keep the batteries from having problems with sulphation. I take the batteries out for the coldest winter months and keep them charged. They are about 4 years old and I hope to get another season out of them.

It has Group 24 Batteries -- Will the the battery box hold group 27 batteries?

Thanks,

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by tkowalyk

...It has Group 24 Batteries -- Will the the battery box hold group 27 batteries?

Thanks,

A Group 27 is 1 3/4" longer than a Group 24. Measure the depth of your battery box.

[Gringo]

Originally Posted by YankeeDoodle

A Group 27 is 1 3/4" longer than a Group 24. Measure the depth of your battery box.

uh, wouldn't that be 'measure the length of your battery box'?

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by YankeeDoodle

A Group 27 is 1 3/4" longer than a Group 24. Measure the depth of your battery box.

POI....our's came with 27's and they barely fit. High tite not long tite.

Bob

[SteveH]

Our '04 came with 27's, and they fit perfect.

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

POI....our's came with 27's and they barely fit. High tite not long tite.

Bob

The width and height of the 24's and 27's are the same, only the length is different. Yes, mine also came with 27's and they must fully inserted to close the hatch and am watchful that the (+) post doesn't contact the frame coming or going, but that's not really a problem. I make sure the slack cable is looped over the top before sliding them in after any maintenance so that it doesn't get bunched up behind the battery. There's enough room left over to store my plastic turkey baster and hydrometer in there. It looks like the same box has been used by Airstream since 1982 and appear to be designed with the 27s.

Depending on design and manufacturer, a Group 24 can be rated at 70 to 85 Amp hours; a Group 27 at 85 to 105 Amp hours. For the same brand/type, that's approximately 20% difference in capacity. For some, that difference might be important, for others, not so much.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by SteveH

Our '04 came with 27's, and they fit perfect.

Steve,

Noticed the wink...

Try one of these,(plastic) to help slide them over that pesky hinge/ledge.

REALLY helps with the Lifelines.

Bob

[tkowalyk]

All -- Thanks for the responses.

Bob -- thanks for the detailed response. I will go with go with group 27s for the next replacement set. Hopefully I can get another season out of my existing batteries.

Has anybody ever used:

Battery Equaliser 12 oz.

Click the above link:

[Silver Goose]

Bob, That's a really good idea! Do you slip it beside the battery for storage?

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by YankeeDoodle

The width and height of the 24's and 27's are the same, only the length is different. Yes, mine also came with 27's and they must fully inserted to close the hatch and am watchful that the (+) post doesn't contact the frame coming or going, but that's not really a problem. I make sure the slack cable is looped over the top before sliding them in after any maintenance so that it doesn't get bunched up behind the battery. There's enough room left over to store my plastic turkey baster and hydrometer in there. It looks like the same box has been used by Airstream since 1982 and appear to be designed with the 27s.

YD,

Thats interesting, I lengthened the neg cables so I could completely remove the Batt, and not leave it resting on the open door. Always insert neg first and have been able to loop that cable and place it behind the batt.

My problem has always been lifting up high enough to get over the hinge lip.

POI...always use the rubber post covers to avoid surprises.

Bob -- thanks for the detailed response. I will go with go with group 27s for the next replacement set. Hopefully I can get another season out of my existing batteries.

Has anybody ever used:

Battery Equaliser 12 oz.

Click the above link:[/QUOTE]

tk...

You may need lewster for advise on that additive, never heard of the stuff.
Both the IOTA converter in the trailer and my Vector home charger have "equalizer" modes.

Bob

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by YankeeDoodle

Bob, That's a really good idea! Do you slip it beside the battery for storage?

YEP

Bob

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by tkowalyk

...Has anybody ever used:

Battery Equaliser 12 oz.

...

The basic rule has been to put nothing in a battery except distiller water. I have no knowledge of this product.

[edglenn]

I had to replace and relocate my #27 battery from the rear cargo hatch, to the curbside compartment, for more room. I'll have to post pictures, showing how I can fit (3) #24's in the side, behind the wheel well. Had to frame-up a complete compartment with hatch and venting. There just wasn't enough room in the rear cargo area for what I needed. I'm running (2) 2,000 watt inverters for my coffee shop, and need all the battery capacity I can get. (Pics to follow. It's a nice setup. I'll put it under the Registry "aerojava".)
Checking the electrolyte level from the top will be a challenge!

As for battery "additives". I used to work for a CarQuest shop. The owner had many years of experience, and didn't like the stuff. Said it'll gum up the battery plates within a year or two, and doesn't extend the life any.
His point was, if it worked, ALL the battery manufacturers would be using it. None do, and today's industry is struggling to improve battery performance.
I think it's like one of the "Hydrogen Seperators" that promise to give you 10% better gas mileage.
I wouldn't put any contamination into my electrolyte, myself.