I just got my 76 31 ft Sovereign. I'm doing a detailed check-out. Battery condition meter on the Control Panel reading WRONG!....too low! The series resister has changed values. Getting at this METER is very, very difficult, indeed....but I did it. Fixed the problem....including an accurate adjustment for future variences. Another problem, my UNIVOLT has been replaced,....thank goodness!. However, there is no 120VAC connection confirmation indicator! Except for a night light plugged into a 120 receptcal, I'm open for ideas?!! So, lets' hear them!! Bill
I just got my 76 31 ft Sovereign. I'm doing a detailed check-out. Battery condition meter on the Control Panel reading WRONG!....too low! The series resister has changed values. Getting at this METER is very, very difficult, indeed....but I did it. Fixed the problem....including an accurate adjustment for future variences. Another problem, my UNIVOLT has been replaced,....thank goodness!. However, there is no 120VAC connection confirmation indicator! Except for a night light plugged into a 120 receptcal, I'm open for ideas?!! So, lets' hear them!! Bill
The fringe benefit or loss as the case may be, when you install a charger other than a univolt, is that they do not have the separate small circuit that feeds the power on light, thats in your central control panel.
I have a 1978 Argosy 24. I haven't found the "Control Panel". I suspect eliminating this was one of the cost cutting measures vs the upscale Airstreams. No big deal because I can hear when the Univolt is pluged in. I do have a battery meter in the electrical closet and unplug the Univolt when the battery is fully charged to avoid cooking it and to get rid of the "dynamo hum".
It seems like an AC "hot" indicator would be a good idea but using the Univolt output for this isn't really a good solution because the Univolt isn't always plugged in. Also there's two conditions. AC plugged in but main breaker in either on or off position. And there's also the dection of reverse polarity.
Of course in my sitution with the panel in the closet the indicators only help when you're first plugging in; which I guess is actually when you need it the most. Or if there's a problem you can go back and check. I'm pretty sure there's also AC breakers that have either a connection or built in indicator. As long as you're going to this length what would really be nice, especially for running off a generator or inverter would be low/high voltage detection.
Others have managed to get the light to light when plugged in...
John McG
Thanks John, for that thread. The explanation from Andy about how the UNIVOLT makes the AC POWER ON light turn on is very enlightening. That's a unique way to do it....but it works!
After the UNIVOLT is replaced, the challenge is not "how" to turn the light on....but in my case, the challenge is getting access to the circuitry to make it happen!! Everything is BEHIND the stove!! You can get easy access to the 12 volt fuse panel from the opening in the side, covered by a sliding door. But you cannot get to the other side of the panel without removing the stove! That's where the PO put the new Converter. I can just barely see the screws that hold it in the metal shelf behind the fuse panel.
The simple solution is to plug a NIGHTLIGHT into the AC receptacle in the bathroom. It will light when you plug into AC power.......and I need a little light in there, anyway! It's simple, it works and it's cheap, plus low power(5watts) Bill
The cut end of the contol panel "AC on" telltale light should be down somewhere close to the new power supply. a simple solution is to connect it to one lead of a 12VAC "wall-wart" powersupply from some small appliance. Ground the other lead to the chassis or the converter and plug the wallwart into the other plug where the intellipower or whatever plugs in. Whenever there is power to the charger/converter the wallwart will turn on the thelltale. simple fix
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"Not all who are lost are wondering" say Bill & Heidi
'78 Excella 500,"The Silver Pullit". vacuum over hydraulic disc brakes, center bath, rear twin. '67 Travelall 1200 B 4X4 WBCCI 3737
The cut end of the contol panel "AC on" telltale light should be down somewhere close to the new power supply. a simple solution is to connect it to one lead of a 12VAC "wall-wart" powersupply from some small appliance. Ground the other lead to the chassis or the converter and plug the wallwart into the other plug where the intellipower or whatever plugs in. Whenever there is power to the charger/converter the wallwart will turn on the thelltale. simple fix
You are correct, the "fix" is pretty simple....a 120VAC relay would do it or a small 120VAC to 12V power supply, etc. That's not the problem, in my case the problem is getting to the area you need to access to make the connections...you have to remove the stove!...and to get to the other end to connect a ground, you have to remove the range hood, and the vent fan to drop down the Control Panel to get at the back of itl! And after dropping the Control Panel to replace light bulbs and fix a "wrong" reading Battery Meter, it's simply not worth that kind of effort. I don't want to fix it THAT bad! I will stick with and be happy with the NIGHT LIGHT. Bill
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