Boondocker VS Magnum VS Intelli-Power

[BoldAdventure]

I'm going bonkers trying to figure out why I would pick one inverter/charger over another. Many of the features look the same, although high end seems to feature temperature compensators.

To be honest, I'm not even sure what the temperature compensator is compensating for. The batteries heat from voltage or the ambient temperature.

So clearly from the low to high price point, I'm looking at these 3, based on what I've read, and several people whom I know who have purchased each.

PowerMax PM4B-60 (60 Amp 4-Stage Converter/Charger)

Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power Converter Charger 55 Amp PD4655

Magnum Inverter/Charger 1000W/50A MMS1012

Generally higher price is suppose to be associated with quality. Outside of customer service, what is the reason I would choose the Magnum unit over the Progressive Dynamics unit?

Am I missing something when comparing specs on these.

Any help is appreciated, I currently have the Parallex 7335 that according to receipts was replaced in 2009 by the PO. And I'm pretty sure it murdered the cheapo Walmart batteries he had in the trailer. And I don't want to ruin the new batteries I just bought.

If this matters, I know that for the first wish months we'll probably be staying at places with full or at least partial hookups. But I know when we get out West we are going to want to boondock a lot more. And I plan on adding upwards of 400watts of solar, not sure if that will be before we get on the road, or when we are on the road. But I am planning for it, and setting money aside. But I'd like to get the converter issue sorted before we get on the road.

Thanks guys.

[acstokes]

First of all, a converter/charger and an inverter/charger are two different things. A converter/charger converts 120v AC to 12v DC for charging your batteries. An inverter/charger will both charge your batteries and convert the battery power from 12v DC to 120 AC. The inverter/charger is what you want if you plan to install solar. When not connected to shore power the inverter can use stored battery power to power items that require 120v AC (excepting AC and possibly microwave, electric coffee pot, etc. depending upon the size of your solar system and inverter).

I've just scratched the surface here and a lot will depend upon how much you want to spend. A 400 watt system with a quality solar controller and inverter will run you $2-3K. The Magnum inverter/charger is excellent, but higher priced than a converter only.

[Rocinante]

If you don't already have an inverter in the TT and the price is OK with you I'd suggest the Magnum. Per Lewster, it's a wicked smart programmable unit that also includes support for temp compensation (e.g. changing how it charges the batteries depending on their temperature). Since it has an inverter built-in, that can pretty handy if you don't already have one.

We already had a 1K inverter on board, so when we replaced the Parallax we went with the Progressive Dynamics 4655 because it's just so easy to swap-in as a replacement for the PLax with no additional wiring - it just works. The PD unit is not temperature compensated, but it's a smart multi-stage charger, so it's way better than the PLax.

Key difference for the Magnum is the inverter and temp compensation, which can help further extend the life of your batteries because it will treat them even better than the PD 4655 by charging them exactly right at every possible temperature.

[cwf]

Either is better than 'stock'...

[BoldAdventure]

Doah!

I cannot believe I missed that, inverter/charger & converter/charger staring me in the face. Problem with waiting till after the kiddo has gone to sleep to attempt to research. Should do my reading in the AM.

That makes things quite a bit clearer, I need to check my paper work and have a look because I think we do have an onboard inverter. One of the times I wish the Airstream wasn't an hour away in storage so I could run out and take a look rather than guess/flip thru the PO's paperwork.

I swear though, I feel like I'm going wrapping my head around some of this.

[DKB_SATX]

Re: temperature compensation: It's the temperature of the battery that matters, and the sensor belongs on or very near the battery. The recommended charge voltage for a battery varies by temperature (and type of battery and manufacturer).

[lewster]

And it's not only the temp. compensation that makes a Magnum better. It is also fully programmable for type of battery (different charging voltage profiles for different batteries) and size of the battery bank ( duration of the absorption phase) that makes the magnum far superior to any converter/charger.

Plus, you get the 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter as a bonus, and the unit can be easily repaired in the off-chance that it malfunctions. Also.....MADE IN USA!

And BTW, the battery temperature sensor has a ring terminal on it to be attached to a minor negative battery terminal (one where the major current from an output cable is not located).

[BoldAdventure]

Alright, that makes things much clearer. Thanks Lew.

I guess I need to make my decision now. I know we have crappy Costco lead acid batteries because I needed an interim hold over to replace the Walmart batteries originally in the Airstream. Just gotta decide if I want to go all in now, or hold off till I go full blast on the solar.

But this info helps me a lot. I really think the Magnum is going to be best suited in the long run, as both myself and my wife are web workers. So charged Laptop's and Wifi are a must.

Thanks again.

[acstokes]

The place to start is to decide what you want to power and size your inverter and solar accordingly. If you can forgo microwave, hair dryer, and other high current appliances, you can get by with a 300-600 watt inverter. If you can't, you'll want a 1500-2000 watt one. This decision will then drive what size (amp hour) battery bank you'll need, how many watts of solar panels you'll need, and what size solar controller you'll need. This will all drive what size wire and fuses you need. It all starts with the decision regarding how much "stuff" you want to power while boondocking.

Fred



Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[BoldAdventure]

microwave, hair dryer, and other high current appliances

Doesn't apply to us. Don't own a microwave, thru the one in the Airstream out, wife doesn't blow dry, and we don't really watch TV. Only own 1 without cable or sat or even an HD antenna in our home.

[acstokes]

That's going to save you a lot. A 300-600 watt inverter and comparable battery bank and solar equipment should meet your needs.

Fred



Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[indy]

When we go out Boondocking we have 200watts of solar. And have never needed an inverter for 110v. We dry our hairs in the wind and make coffee on the stovetop. No television, what else would one need 110 for.?

[BoldAdventure]

To power Laptop's and our entire communications array. Without the internet, we're without income.

[dkottum]

We have factory solar 106 watts I think and they charge the two Group 24 AGM batteries before noon each (sunny) day. It is the battery size where we come up short if/when we do. Really like solar power over generators. You soon learn to balance what you use with what you have, like all things travel and camping.

[indy]

We use our 12V outlet to recharge all of our communication devices, Ipads, Iphones and whatnots

[Beach Bum]

I went through the solar / battery design build process last year for my 30’ Flying cloud You could buy and install the charger/inverter now and add the solar with new batteries later. I would recommend using a pure sine wave inverter. They cost more but there is less chance of your electronics going wonky.
Based on what you have described (no microwave or blow drier, minimal TV) you can easily get by with a 600-1000W inverter. Remember you only need the inverter for AC power requirement. Your 120V AC needs may be driven by your home office equipment PC’s printer ect. You might think about adding a few 12V outlets if needed to handle all of the phone and other small rechargeable stuff. Its more energy efficient in most cases, reduces the need for AC and the size of your inverter.
Important things you need to help you figure out what you need:
1. Average daily 12V DC Amp Hours will you consume per day
2. How many days power with no solar (consecutive rainy days)
3. Maximum momentary 120 V AC Amps to size your inverter
Remember when sizing the system 1 amp 120V AC is approximately 10amp 12VDC.
For the Solar Panel install there is no need to drill holes in the roof and potential places for leaks that come with them. . AM Solar sells the mounts and adhesives. I have over 6000 miles on mine no panels have blown off or come loose.

My installed AM Solar system :

SunRunner Signature 40/4/Pro Core
4 GS 135W solar panels
Magnum 1000W Charger/Inverter
4 Lifeline 6 CT Batteries
New low profile vent covers
Combiner box
The wiring is sized for up to 800W should I want to add panels in the future.
System is providing anywhere from 35 AMP hours to 5 amp hours mid-day depending on shade and the weather outside. Happy with the system performance. BTW I have no relationship or vested interest in AM solar just a happy camper.

[demijac]

Not an expert but I've been told that battery size is the limiting factor when figuring out the maximum inverter wattage. We have the factory installed 1000 watt inverter and solar. We would like to run more things at the same time when boo docking and thought we could achieve that objective by upgrading to a 1500 or 2000 watt inverter. We were told that would be a waste of time with the two factory installed Interstate Deep Cycle Marine/RV batteries. Due to space limitations in the battery compartment, I believe we are at maximum battery storage unless we add additional batteries and put them in the forward storage compartment. Does this make sense?

[lewster]

By using the 'right' battery system, you can place batteries under a front bed, front lounge or other interior space and have almost unlimited (limited only by space availability and weight) battery capacity.

These shots are from a 27FB that I just finished. 600 amp/hours of Lifeline GPL-6CT, Magnum MS-2012 inverter/charger that will energize the entire circuit breaker box (less the roof A/C) when off-grid, 540 watts of solar and a 40 amp Blue Sky MPPT solar charge controller with iPN-Pro remote/battery monitor system (plus other peripheral goodies ) Everything except the solar panels are located in the forward storage compartment, which has very limited access due to the Pro Pride hitch towers.

And now with the new lithium batteries available (ready, but still can't be shipped due to haz-mat regulations), a lithium bank of similar capacity (300 usable amp/hours) will weigh around 112 lbs, rather than the 340 for the Lifelines. Exciting times!!!!!

[BoldAdventure]

Well, finished going thru the paper work. Unit was retrofitted/replaced with a Parallax 7345RU unit. Didn't pop off to see where the inverter is under the front area of our 27FB. I'm going to assume something is going on there, since we have a 15amp solar panel that is wired into the panel there under the bed in the front compartment.

Either way, Lew has me thinking. Want to plan out a full system the right way, and right now everything is holding together. I need to know how we do with some actual experience, so going to set aside about 4~5K budget and continue reading/educating and evaluate when we are on the road to determine what we will need.

[BoldAdventure]

Ahh screw it. I ended up going with the 25/6 core system and 3 135W panels. I think this will be ok with our current 220ahs worth of battery power. Although, I'm almost thinking I should of gone bigger because 4 panels seems like a magical number.