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Old 06-13-2016, 03:37 PM   #1
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Boondocker Converter Install

For several months, I have been reading all the posts on the Parallax converter and the damage it can cause to batteries. So I bit the bullet before any damage was done to our '16 Flying Cloud 26u. I pulled out the Parallax and gutted the box. I cut out the right side for better cooling and to be able to gain access to the fuses for the reverse polarity protection. The pop rivets holding the cover on are apparently metric. I had 1/8" and 3/16" and one was too small and one was too large. I drilled the holes to 3/16". As you can see, there is no evidence that the unit has been changed out. The Parallax would charge at 13.6 volts all the time. The Boondocker charged at 14.5v when I first started it and slowly dropped to 13.2v as the batteries were charged. The batteries were at 12.4v before I hooked them up. I ended up not using the heavy ground wire. The Boondocker is bolted to the original cabinet and there was no good way to route the ground. It was a very simple installation-only 4 wires to deal with. I feel much better about the electrical.
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:06 PM   #2
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You're going to really appreciate this upgrade! Looks like a first rate install. Thanks for the nice documentation....you have probably encouraged some other owner to make the move to a better, much more functional 12V system in their trailer!
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Old 06-15-2016, 04:34 PM   #3
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From what I guess it fits in the back of the fusebox? Is it a 3 way or 4 way convertor? How much was it. Know I can look this up but am in the middle of the Yellowstone forest and for some reason I have good internet. Usually only last a short time so doing important stuff first
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:49 PM   #4
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I was thinking of doing this too. Thanks for the write-up.

I'm looking at this site.

http://www.bestconverter.com/Powerma...rs-_c_154.html
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:51 PM   #5
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...and I'm guessing I need to have the 12 volt, 30 A system? My 2015 FC30 is limited to 30 A.
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Old 06-18-2016, 06:17 PM   #6
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Never noticed with the Parallax, but the lights flicker when the toilet is flushed and occasionally at other times.
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bgibbs View Post
Never noticed with the Parallax, but the lights flicker when the toilet is flushed and occasionally at other times.
Must be a heavy load . . .
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Old 06-18-2016, 10:45 PM   #8
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The Parallax was a 55 amp and the Boondocker is a 60 amp. I don't think the loads were any heavier than before. I'll monitor it and call BestConverter on Monday and ask him.
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:50 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Bgibbs View Post
The Parallax was a 55 amp and the Boondocker is a 60 amp. I don't think the loads were any heavier than before. I'll monitor it and call BestConverter on Monday and ask him.
Well . . ., I facetiously [] was referring to the load in the toilet that, when flushed, somehow caused the lights to flicker. I hope it also didn't cause the ground to tremble. Instead of calling Randy, I'd call Joe the Plumber, who you might remember from a while ago. I apologize for sending you on a snipe chase.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:10 PM   #10
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Sorry, don't remember the snipe chase.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:38 AM   #11
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Nice thing about retaining original box is that the provision for mounting door is not changed and the door mounts right up perfectly aligned.
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:56 PM   #12
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ID:	265374. When I installed my converter I cut out the back of the box so the fans had more room. It's been a year and a half now and very satisfied. The original black and white wires run to a GFI outlet that we installed so as use the 110 cord. Pretty simple with a little help. Hope this somebody else. By the way the fan blows in the cabin when it's doing what it does.


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Old 03-12-2017, 03:37 PM   #13
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Hi Bgibbs,
Thinking of installing the Boondocker (BD1260HW). Your pictures give me a good idea what to expect - thanks!. Look like I need to learn how to remove and install new rivets for the cover before I can take on the Boondocker.

Did you solve the light flicker mystery?
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:53 PM   #14
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I actually hadn't seen this thread Bgibbs or I forgot. I do remember on member was going to send me photos direct but don't think I got it. I don't log on everyday but more lately since I have more time this time of year. I had to laugh at the toilet flush flickering lights. That's a new one and now I know why I got that strange email awhile back from somebody. NO, its not related lol!
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Old 01-28-2018, 10:26 AM   #15
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Paying it forward by a video I made of my own install that takes all the useful advice here. The video shows more detail of how to modify the old chassis to hold the Boondocker.

https://youtu.be/BcShxL1xO7Y
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lara Me View Post
Paying it forward by a video I made of my own install that takes all the useful advice here. The video shows more detail of how to modify the old chassis to hold the Boondocker.

https://youtu.be/BcShxL1xO7Y


This video was extremely helpful when installing my boondocker 1260 hwl in my 2016 international. The boondocker wasn’t exactly the same wire configuration as the one in the video, so I had to make due with the install information I could find on the internet.

It’s been about 3 days now and my GFCI breaker keeps tripping (even when I don’t have anything plugged in). I installed the boondocker wires to the same locations that the original converter was wired (which was not the GFCI breaker). I have never done any sort of electrical work before, so I’m starting from scratch as I troubleshoot what I might have done wrong. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be causing the breaker to keep tripping or had the same issue?
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Old 10-29-2019, 07:57 PM   #17
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Our Gucci breaker started tripping on our trip this summer would o my trip when it warmed up during g the day. New breaker from Home Depot cured the problem.
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