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Old 09-10-2015, 02:11 PM   #15
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dpdt switch type

For J. Morgan (or anyone that knows): if using a simple dpdt switch, should it be a 2 position (on) (on) or three position (on) (off) (on)? Also, where did you find your switches, I can only find NKK looking on the internet. Thank you. Skip Simpson
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Old 09-10-2015, 02:44 PM   #16
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Sometimes simplicity is just more reliable.

Agreed! My final comments were directed toward the vides in the link, NOT your solution.

I've seen many older or lower end motor homes that use a single 30 amp outlet and 2 plugs that must be connected manually; one for shore power and the other for generator.

Simple and effective for power input isolation purposes.


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Old 09-10-2015, 04:38 PM   #17
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Simple is definitely what I am looking for. A lot of info here, while very informative and thorough, sounds a lot more sophisticated and expensive than what I need. My 2000 watt inverter is already kind of overkill for what I'll be powering on it. We basically got it to be able to use a blow dryer. Other than that, we're just powering LED lights, a small LED tv, and charging stuff. We won't have an AC unit either.

So what would be the simplest, cheapest setup I could do that would allow me to...A. use my outlets when I'm off-grid, and...B. Charge my battery, use my outlets, and run all the 12v when plugged into shore power?

At this point, I haven't even installed my shore power inlet yet. I was just going to put a regular 15 amp inlet on the trailer because I don't know why I'd ever need a 30 amp. Should I return the mighty mini and use something else?
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Old 09-10-2015, 04:50 PM   #18
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So looking into inverter/chargers a little bit more, and it sounds like getting one like this might actually make things a lot simpler. Would it?
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Old 09-10-2015, 05:03 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by SkipS View Post
For J. Morgan (or anyone that knows): if using a simple dpdt switch, should it be a 2 position (on) (on) or three position (on) (off) (on)? Also, where did you find your switches, I can only find NKK looking on the internet. Thank you. Skip Simpson

I ordered mine from Amazon.com, I think about $35.
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Old 09-10-2015, 05:15 PM   #20
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Best way to wire inverter/converter/shore power for seamless AC power

Maybe I paid more than $35,,, but I dont think I paid $80...


I remember I did a lot of shopping with lots of different search criteria to find a cheap price.

Leviton 1288 30-Amp 120-Volt Toggle Double-Pole AC Quiet Switch, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AUPTP8..._FbG8vbE3XQE3B

I remember now, I bought through Amazon, but from Global industrial.
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:29 PM   #21
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Found it!

It was bugging me...

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/el...-277V-AC-Brown
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:41 PM   #22
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2000-3000 watts coming off of a battery just seems crazy to me. That's 166-250 amps! I know it's technically doable, but I don't think I'd ever be comfortable trying to pull/move that much current.

"At this point, I haven't even installed my shore power inlet yet. I was just going to put a regular 15 amp inlet on the trailer because I don't know why I'd ever need a 30 amp. Should I return the mighty mini and use something else?"
30a is a standard rv inlet(unless upgraded to. 50a for bigger rigs or dual air cond). I'd stick with that. You'll need 30a if you want to run the air conditioner on shore power.
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Old 09-10-2015, 09:25 PM   #23
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Won't have an air conditioner, hence only wanting to add a 15 amp inlet so I can plug into a regular extension cord at most places. And if I'm at a campground that only has 30amp, I'll just get an adapter.
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:10 PM   #24
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Won't have an air conditioner, hence only wanting to add a 15 amp inlet so I can plug into a regular extension cord at most places. And if I'm at a campground that only has 30amp, I'll just get an adapter.
I also am planning on installing only a 15 or 20 amp inlet. We generally camp without hookups. We only need hookups for operating the AC, but it is only a 5000 btu window unit, so 15 amps is plenty. I have not been able to locate a nice stainless steel 15 amp inlet receptacle, just black plastic.

Dan
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:01 AM   #25
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If it was me I would run the 30 amp plug and adapt down to a 15 amp outlet when needed, even if this is most of the time.

This is for a couple of reasons. First is that the RV style plugs make for better contact at the plug because of their larger more generously spaced posts.

Secondly it will be fun attaching a 15 amp plug to a 10 gage cord..... Yea.

If you run a smaller cord, it wont be rated to handle the 30 amps that the pedestal in an RV is capable of delivering. In short, this wire will be a fire hazard should you have a short.

Capacity over breaker size is ok, capacity under breaker size is not so good.

Beyond this, I don't know that a 30 amp to 15 amp adapter is not commercially available, with the liability issues inherent with such a device, I doubt they are.
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:59 AM   #26
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Adapters for changing the end of a 30a shore power cable to fit in a 15a outlet are readily available.
If you ever decide to sell the trailer only having a 15a shore power inlet could become an issue, especially if internal wire would need to be re run.
Additionally, what if you decide to upgrade later, easier to install the 30a inlet now when everything is open.
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Old 09-11-2015, 10:49 AM   #27
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Truck HVAC

Truckers are moving to battery based climate systems for overnighting due to restrictions on idling. There is lots of stuff on Google. The norm seems to be 4 Group 31 batteries, a 2000 watt inverter, a 10,000 BTU air conditioner and a diesel fired furnace. All integrated. Systems are designed to run on just battery power for 10 hours. You may want to explore this area. It is their future and should have some interesting applications for us.
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:07 AM   #28
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Yeah, I've thought about these things. Probably is smarter to just install a 30amp inlet.

Well, inlets aside, how about the whole inverter/charger thing to simplify my system? Could somebody explain how exactly I would wire it up?

From what I gather, I would have my shore power wired up to come into the inverter/charger, which would then go out to my AC breaker box - is that right? And the inverter/charger is hooked up to the battery, so it's all setup to either draw power from it or feed a charge to it. My 12v circuits are then connected directly to the battery.

Here is my awful attempt at a diagram:
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