Best Battery?

[Anniedog]

Since it appears I have ruined my batteries, might I ask you folks for your reccomendations for replacements? I did have some Delco Deep Cycle Type 27's in there (the sealed batts with the little window on top) and they were fine for the past four years. I guess I cooked them by leaving the trailer plugged in. They need to fit in the compartments on an '88 Excella 1000.
Thanks.

[mandolindave]

Boondockers and Fulltimers like the Trojan golf cart batts, or the Optima AGM
( absorbed glass matt ). There are some that are happy with the Interstates.
The Trojans are cheap. The Optimas are maintenance free and don't need to be vented ( you can sneek in an extra batt without having to build another vented compartment).
I have heard tell that the top of the line Sears batts die an early age. Supposedly what makes them perform so well also makes them die an early death. ( the plates are too thin or something?)
You will find lots of info and arguements here on the forum and on other
sites. Try using our search funtion, and google.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by Anniedog

Since it appears I have ruined my batteries, might I ask you folks for your reccomendations for replacements? I did have some Delco Deep Cycle Type 27's in there (the sealed batts with the little window on top) and they were fine for the past four years. I guess I cooked them by leaving the trailer plugged in. They need to fit in the compartments on an '88 Excella 1000.
Thanks.

'Best' depends on your needs. If you're going to add a solar charging system at some point or plan on boondocking, then Lifeline AGMs are the 'best' for those applications. Expensive......yes! But they offer faster re-charging and more useable amps to draw from than anything else out there and come in all of the popular sizes along with 2 sizes of 6VDC golf cart batteries (my personal preference!) Plus, once properly installed, you never have to touch them again, but they do require a 3-stage charger so a Univolt will not cut it here.

If liquid cells will suffice, go with the Trojan brand. They are built better than most other standard batteries with thicker plates and can be had just about anywhere.

[Leipper]

A key is to try to get a handle on why your current batteries failed. Your guess that you cooked them by leaving the trailer plugged in is a good start if you have the typical converter/charger. Low electrolyte levels indicate overcharging that is typical of this situation.

Fix that problem first. If using an old style converter, update to an intellepower with charge wizard or equivalent or use a decent battery maintainer that supports equalization and desulfation.

I am also finding that the old style converters kill batteries over time because they don't charge them properly. You need a 3 stage charger that will get the batteries promptly up to a full charge. Converters kinda' sorta' get there and take a whole lot longer. Vigorous proper charging helps keeps the batteries from sulfating, which is a major cause of death. These kinds of batteries don't do well in float service.

As for batteries, you will probably need group 27 size 12v RV/Marine duty. Brand isn't so much an issue as is getting fresh batteries from a reputable dealer. For instance, Costco batteries run about $50 and are guaranteed for 3 years and a lot of folks find them a good way to go.

For best battery life, use them so that they discharge to at least 10% but no more than 50%, recharge promptly with a 3 stage charger, and maintain actively with a proper device. You should get 5 years or more out of a set of batteries else something needs fixing in your use, charge, and maintenance practice.

As for some of the issues Lew mentions (plates, golf cart, etc) - those are deeply held and you can find heated discussions about them - I don't think they are worth much concern.