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Old 12-20-2010, 10:25 AM   #29
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clearly the charger isn't charging.

the simplest approach is to use a traditional charger for these few days,

whenever shore power is available.

IF rv battery use is limited to the fridge electronics and cooling is done with lpgas this will get ya through the trip.

while parked/plugged in the furnace/water pump and lights will still require 12v but direct REcharge as needed will work.

the trailer brakes SHOULD function via the 7pin, but please be sure of that.
____________

it's never fun to make major repairs while in route or on a short trip...

especially when the goal of the trip is a few days of family fun.

shipping parts overnight is crazy expensive and u might be hurried into picking the wrong (expensive) replacement.

you will be passing by several BIG camping worlds, so it is possible to stop and buy the gear.

but unless you wanna replace the uni' with another uni', the process of install/upgrade will use a full day (or more)
_____________

sometimes it is necessary to modify plans to accomplish the main goals.

ultimately the memories should be about disney and kids.

so if it's necessary to ditch the fridge food or use ice chests or buy a small 12v cooler (plugged into the tow vehicle)...

i'd simply wait on replacing/upgrading the trailer charge system,

till the fun part is over and the rig is back in dry dock.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:54 PM   #30
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Shawn has bought a battery charger. Since 11 of our lights run on 12v and only 3 run on shore power and he has work until Thursday, trying to do big repairs just doesn't make sense. Although, he's had to repair two small water pipe leaks today!!

A very sincere thanks to everyone!
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:03 PM   #31
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If you are in the market for a converter to replace the Univolt. There is an Inteli-Power PD9245C on EBay for $129.59 including shipping. It has a 45 amp capacity which should work for you.
If you decide to upgrade; there are plenty of people in the forum to walk you thru it.
I for one will be happy to help. Along with others that helped; we walked a lady thru the complete rewire of her trailer. She had no experience prior to this.

If you go to the member lucymcdog and follow the post labeled "Electrical & 12v System" thread. It will show you how we did it. Caution! it is a long read.
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:38 PM   #32
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Thanks I will forward that to Shawn. I am sure it will help him out. Thanks so much!
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:33 PM   #33
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Just wanted to let you know..

we bought a battery charger that got us through the trip safe, warm & lighted.
There never was a "hum" from the univolt again.

Shawn took out the "Univolt" today. Here's the pic:


Pretty sure this was a PO modification. We will be shopping for a new one soon.
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:38 PM   #34
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Well that's nothing but a battery charger, and not a very good one either. Also, it's not big enough (not enough capacity).

Glad you were able to continue with your trip OK.
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:57 PM   #35
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Exthemius requested I show you this picture as well.



Naturally the only thing we could see was the fusebox portion. Since it had always worked we didn't ever pull it out to look at it. I have to say they did an excellent job of cutting the original metal box.
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:38 AM   #36
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Yes, that was a helluva surprise when I took it out and found that POS in there....walked into the house giggling. Anyway, here's what we're planning on buying and hooking up to the existing distribution panel: PD 9245C 45 Amp RV Converter/Charger.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:00 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exthemius View Post
Yes, that was a helluva surprise when I took it out and found that POS in there....walked into the house giggling. Anyway, here's what we're planning on buying and hooking up to the existing distribution panel: PD 9245C 45 Amp RV Converter/Charger.
That should do just fine.
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:31 AM   #38
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Converter

If you go to www.keithsrvsurplus.com You can get the same converter new for less than $125.00. Go to "Interior Parts"
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Old 02-07-2011, 12:29 PM   #39
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Firstly How old is your Battery.? If it is a deep cycle then it should be good for up to 5 years but not much more. How is the water level in the battery.
Corrosion is not always noticeable. a bright connection is needed. Check the isolation diode in the Univolt.
The univolt is a 6 volt transformer with a doubler circuit to give you the 12VDC. a leaky diode can lower the charge rate.

CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS LEADING TO THE BATTERY

Rae
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Old 02-07-2011, 01:15 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raebaker06 View Post
Firstly How old is your Battery.? If it is a deep cycle then it should be good for up to 5 years but not much more. How is the water level in the battery.
Corrosion is not always noticeable. a bright connection is needed. Check the isolation diode in the Univolt.
The univolt is a 6 volt transformer with a doubler circuit to give you the 12VDC. a leaky diode can lower the charge rate.

CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS LEADING TO THE BATTERY

Rae
It wasn't the battery or the univolt -- it was the fact that the "univolt" that we could see was only the fuse panel.....we discovered that the PO simply put in a small battery charger in it's place we removed it. This has since been corrected, as seen here:
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Old 02-07-2011, 01:59 PM   #41
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Too Small

The wires coming out of your converter are way to small. What size is the big fuse in the fuse panel where these wires connect? If it is a 30 amp fuse you need at least #10 wire. Maybe it's just the photo but they don't look like #10. If the fuse is larger you need larger wire.
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Old 02-07-2011, 03:56 PM   #42
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It's 12 gauge wire, the instructions that came with the unit said the rating was for 12 to 2. The length is less than 2 feet, and the amp is 45....according to the various wire gauge tables that I looked at, I needed 18 gauge for 3' @ 40amps and 16 gauge for 3' @ 50 amps.....I don't think I did anything incorrectly, but I could be wrong.
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