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Old 12-19-2010, 10:45 AM   #21
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Shawn got the battery put in around midnight. We took the old one back to walmart for testing and disposal. The guy says it was dead and he wasn't sure if it would hold a charge. He could hook it up and try to charge it, but Shawn just decided to leave it ... considering the age of it.
Nicki what's the voltage at the battery now when plugged in. Test it again unplugged and with TV and let us know. The readings should tell us if you are receiving a charge from the converter and from the TV.
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Old 12-19-2010, 08:17 PM   #22
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Shawn said it's 12.14 on shore power. He hasn't had a chance to do the others. I'm watching one of my favorite shows and might hurt him if he unplugged me!
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:26 PM   #23
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Shawn said it's 12.14 on shore power. He hasn't had a chance to do the others. I'm watching one of my favorite shows and might hurt him if he unplugged me!
Nicki 12.14VDC while connected to shore power is too low. Either your converter is not working or something is hindering the converter from providing the power to the battery. It is important to get the other measurements to see what changes take place to voltage levels at the battery under the different situations in order to try and diagnose the problem.
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:43 AM   #24
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Yes, Chris is right. When you are plugged into shore power, and the converter is on, you should see about 13.6 volts at the battery terminals, assuming the battery is not totally discharged.
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:09 AM   #25
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Once we stop for the day, he's going to take out the univolt and inspect. Any suggestions? Would a $30 battery charger plugged into the back directly on the terminals suffice until we get home? We'll be stopped for 6 days or so -- should we try and do some sort of retrofit, install a new system (not sure how hard it is to do that) or just try and get by until we get home? Remember, we just put a brand-new battery in (so we can rule that out at this point), and up until 3 days ago, the univolt seemed to be humming and working properly.
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:15 AM   #26
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Nicki is the univolt still humming now. Yes a battery charger would help in the short term. Have you checked battery voltage with TV plugged in and running.
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:47 AM   #27
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If in doubt about the battery, a NAPA or Autozone store can do a load test and check for a dead cell. If the battery is OK, they will give is a fast charge at high amps, that should give you a couple of days for the fridge control board to work.
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Old 12-20-2010, 09:09 AM   #28
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Nicki is the univolt still humming now. Yes a battery charger would help in the short term. Have you checked battery voltage with TV plugged in and running.
this morning
he said he checked several times and all reading were between 11.5 and 11.7.
11.7 with tv connected,
with shore power it was 11.51..
he forgot to check the without power but plans on checking them all again when we unhitch today.

Shawn says he hasn't heard the univolt humming all day or last night. Our battery level has not registered in the green (good) since we left OKC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68 TWind View Post
If in doubt about the battery, a NAPA or Autozone store can do a load test and check for a dead cell. If the battery is OK, they will give is a fast charge at high amps, that should give you a couple of days for the fridge control board to work.
We ended up getting a brand new battery yesterday. This morning it registered on the low side of fair.
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Old 12-20-2010, 09:25 AM   #29
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clearly the charger isn't charging.

the simplest approach is to use a traditional charger for these few days,

whenever shore power is available.

IF rv battery use is limited to the fridge electronics and cooling is done with lpgas this will get ya through the trip.

while parked/plugged in the furnace/water pump and lights will still require 12v but direct REcharge as needed will work.

the trailer brakes SHOULD function via the 7pin, but please be sure of that.
____________

it's never fun to make major repairs while in route or on a short trip...

especially when the goal of the trip is a few days of family fun.

shipping parts overnight is crazy expensive and u might be hurried into picking the wrong (expensive) replacement.

you will be passing by several BIG camping worlds, so it is possible to stop and buy the gear.

but unless you wanna replace the uni' with another uni', the process of install/upgrade will use a full day (or more)
_____________

sometimes it is necessary to modify plans to accomplish the main goals.

ultimately the memories should be about disney and kids.

so if it's necessary to ditch the fridge food or use ice chests or buy a small 12v cooler (plugged into the tow vehicle)...

i'd simply wait on replacing/upgrading the trailer charge system,

till the fun part is over and the rig is back in dry dock.

cheers
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Old 12-20-2010, 05:54 PM   #30
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Shawn has bought a battery charger. Since 11 of our lights run on 12v and only 3 run on shore power and he has work until Thursday, trying to do big repairs just doesn't make sense. Although, he's had to repair two small water pipe leaks today!!

A very sincere thanks to everyone!
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:03 PM   #31
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If you are in the market for a converter to replace the Univolt. There is an Inteli-Power PD9245C on EBay for $129.59 including shipping. It has a 45 amp capacity which should work for you.
If you decide to upgrade; there are plenty of people in the forum to walk you thru it.
I for one will be happy to help. Along with others that helped; we walked a lady thru the complete rewire of her trailer. She had no experience prior to this.

If you go to the member lucymcdog and follow the post labeled "Electrical & 12v System" thread. It will show you how we did it. Caution! it is a long read.
WE DO PICTURES AND EVERYTHING!
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:38 PM   #32
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Thanks I will forward that to Shawn. I am sure it will help him out. Thanks so much!
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:33 PM   #33
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Just wanted to let you know..

we bought a battery charger that got us through the trip safe, warm & lighted.
There never was a "hum" from the univolt again.

Shawn took out the "Univolt" today. Here's the pic:


Pretty sure this was a PO modification. We will be shopping for a new one soon.
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:38 PM   #34
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Well that's nothing but a battery charger, and not a very good one either. Also, it's not big enough (not enough capacity).

Glad you were able to continue with your trip OK.
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:57 PM   #35
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Exthemius requested I show you this picture as well.



Naturally the only thing we could see was the fusebox portion. Since it had always worked we didn't ever pull it out to look at it. I have to say they did an excellent job of cutting the original metal box.
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:38 AM   #36
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Yes, that was a helluva surprise when I took it out and found that POS in there....walked into the house giggling. Anyway, here's what we're planning on buying and hooking up to the existing distribution panel: PD 9245C 45 Amp RV Converter/Charger.
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:00 AM   #37
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Yes, that was a helluva surprise when I took it out and found that POS in there....walked into the house giggling. Anyway, here's what we're planning on buying and hooking up to the existing distribution panel: PD 9245C 45 Amp RV Converter/Charger.
That should do just fine.
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:31 AM   #38
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Converter

If you go to www.keithsrvsurplus.com You can get the same converter new for less than $125.00. Go to "Interior Parts"
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:29 AM   #39
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Firstly How old is your Battery.? If it is a deep cycle then it should be good for up to 5 years but not much more. How is the water level in the battery.
Corrosion is not always noticeable. a bright connection is needed. Check the isolation diode in the Univolt.
The univolt is a 6 volt transformer with a doubler circuit to give you the 12VDC. a leaky diode can lower the charge rate.

CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS LEADING TO THE BATTERY

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Old 02-07-2011, 12:15 PM   #40
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Firstly How old is your Battery.? If it is a deep cycle then it should be good for up to 5 years but not much more. How is the water level in the battery.
Corrosion is not always noticeable. a bright connection is needed. Check the isolation diode in the Univolt.
The univolt is a 6 volt transformer with a doubler circuit to give you the 12VDC. a leaky diode can lower the charge rate.

CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS LEADING TO THE BATTERY

Rae
It wasn't the battery or the univolt -- it was the fact that the "univolt" that we could see was only the fuse panel.....we discovered that the PO simply put in a small battery charger in it's place we removed it. This has since been corrected, as seen here:
Airstreaming Dreaming: Intelli-power Installation.....DONE!
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