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Old 02-10-2015, 07:13 PM   #15
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battery placement

I have read all of this thread. I am building a cabinet for my battery, it has a large panel louvre to the outside. It is next to the water heater compartment. , which is also vented to outside. Is there any hazard to having the battery right next to water heater? (wall seperating the two) Thanks, Richard in Texas
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:22 PM   #16
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Batteries should NOT be located near at heat source or ANY source of ignition!


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Old 02-10-2015, 11:17 PM   #17
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1962 19' Globetrotter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dixie722 View Post
I have read all of this thread. I am building a cabinet for my battery, it has a large panel louvre to the outside. It is next to the water heater compartment. , which is also vented to outside. Is there any hazard to having the battery right next to water heater? (wall seperating the two) Thanks, Richard in Texas
Many people built what you are building, box with louvres to the out side, and there is nothing wrong with that except when you are cold weather camping. If there is one thing that zaps battery performance and longevity it's cold weather!

I do not understand why Airstream trailers of today places Batteries in the front "A frame" area exposing them to excess moister traveling down the road, cold outside temperatures, excess tong weigh, and long large cable runs to Inverters and chargers, solar...

That being said, I would place your battery box forward or aft of wheel well so the weight is close to axles to balance the weight. Second I would place box as close to where your inverter/charger will be for short large cable runs, I would make sure batteries can maintain temp for periods of cold weather, and lastly try place box behind usable cabinets storage and not in front. Yes it makes getting to the battery tricky but how often to you change out batteries.

I hope the picture helps further explain my statements and shows relationship of wheel well, battery, inverter/charger and connections... One last note this picture was taken before battery tie down straps were installed!!

Hope that helps!
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Old 02-17-2015, 11:04 PM   #18
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Nice Vinstream! How long can you go on that baby? 255ah? What size/brand converter do you have? What size wire are you using for that.
Will you insulate that box, or lid also?

I know it's probably not what the OP was going to do, but nice none the less.

Do you like the lifeline batteries?

Also, if I were to add solar, where would you tie into such a system?

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Old 02-18-2015, 12:10 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by REDSLED88 View Post
Nice Vinstream! How long can you go on that baby? 255ah? What size/brand converter do you have? What size wire are you using for that.
Will you insulate that box, or lid also?

I know it's probably not what the OP was going to do, but nice none the less.

Do you like the lifeline batteries?

Also, if I were to add solar, where would you tie into such a system?

TIMK
Its easier to show you pictures than try to explain with words alone.

I only use Lifeline batteries I am not sold on the new Lithium batteries (yet), and would never use Old deep cycle wet cell batteries. I like one battery and not several batteries wired together based on battery warranties, If one battery fails the battery companies replace just the one battery, but the bad battery has damaged the other batteries and the rule is you replace all batteries at the same time not just one. If my 255ah one battery goes bad I get a entire new battery from Lifeline!

I only like Xantrex 3000 watt pure sin wave inverter/charger in one, period! There is nothing else on the market that compares. Most people have a charger of some kind (most are not tristate) so they only add a inverter and in most cases its a 2000 watt modified sine wave witch behaves like a 1000 watt pure sine wave with microwaves so you cant run high demand electronics. You asked how long can 255ah last... well I can run my air conditioner off my inverter for 45 minutes before the battery get too low and shuts off because I can program it to do so with the remote control unit that Xantrex makes. Last point some say 3000 is too big, but instead of just having some 110 outlets run off the inverter my entire 110 system runs through the inverter/charger making a seamless transition from shore power, inverter, generator...

Wire:
Depends on length of runs and what you are connecting. I like 4/0 on all battery, inverter, connections. That is why every thing is closely positioned so that large cable runs are limited as much as posable.

Insulation:
Is not needed because that battery is with in the outside insulated walls and AGM batteries can be vented to the inside (many argue this is not correct or a no no but is standard in all european caravans) of coach unlike the old style well cells that must be vented to the outside.

SOLAR hook up:
I am not a fan of GO solar like many on this forum are, because first their solar controller is out of date and second their display is on the back side of the controller. So you have to run more large wires than you should have to so you can both hook it up and read the display. I like the unit pictured because it is the latest in technology, has a temp sending unit, and has a great remote display you can place else were that runs off cat5 line so you can mount the controller close to battery hookup where it should be. The wiring from the controller goes to a junction box where two separate wires merge into one. Reason, I have both fixed panels on the roof (160 watts), and a separate mobile plug in group of panels (150 watts) that can be placed toward the sun or out of the shade if Im parked under trees. I like 8 gage wire for all solar runs.
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