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Old 01-17-2010, 05:34 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 87MH View Post
Surprisingly, most LED's DO NOT live up to the hype - as per tests and Dept. of Energy articles - reference here:

LEDs are efficient for some applications and here:

Don's Lighting Info Center!

.
We replaced 6 of our incadescent lights with LED's this spring. Bought arrays with adapters to replace the old 1157 (or is that 1156) bulbs that are normally used.

1 Bulb draws about 1.5 amps or 18 watts.

All six of the LED lights together draw under an amp. The light is a bit whiter than I would like but the brightness is ok for reading or anything else.

Out flourescent light draw about 2 amps,
We are quite happy with everything about the LED lights except cost.

It ran about $ 30. per light.
We have found these reduce our daily useage by about 10 amp hours.

I bought mine at a hamfest but the same product is available from Visit Our QuickShop Store To Buy LED Lighting for RVs and Boats
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:18 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
.9 amps for the fridge

I'm using these values in a spreadsheet to model my usage on a simulated hourly basis and see how solar/gen/bigger batteries work before I spend the bucks.
Does this mean the fridge draws .9 amps per hour?

Thanks,
Carol
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:09 PM   #17
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Does this mean the fridge draws .9 amps per hour?

Thanks,
Carol
Yup. Mine does. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, as long as it's on....
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:43 AM   #18
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Yup. Mine does. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, as long as it's on....
Since I have never had a modern fridge, Have you actually measured the current? I had assumed it was smaller than that except when igniting the burner??
.9 amps continuous equals 21 amp hours per day which is a serious draw.
We typically use 30 to 40 amp hours a day without refrigerator electric load

It's the small constant load that get you.

If the actual current draw is always this high a battery would be dead in 3-4 days if you left the fridge on while parked.
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:03 AM   #19
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POI...there is a hi-humidity condensation switch(?) that if on, will keep the interior light illuminated 24-7. , never picked up on when reading the manuals, my bad.
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:48 AM   #20
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Yes that was a measured reading. I had a digital ampmeter in the power feed line. By turning on one system at a time i could record the draw.

I'll remeasure this afternoon, the moisture switch was ON but the interior light wasn't on. The Door switch sticks and I seem to recall the light was off when I opened it.
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:16 AM   #21
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Save yourself all that troublesome measuring and thinking

Get the two largest batteries deep cell batteries that will fit, think conservation (i.e. nix the furnace) and have a great time. Also be aware that you wont be allowed to use generators in all National Park campgrounds. My two battery bank with conservation procedures gives me at least a week between charges. When I don't pay attention to energy use, I only get half that.
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:17 AM   #22
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We are able to make one night on the battery. This is with the DC running the lights, TV and heater. We recharge the battery from the tow vehicle and can make an other night. After two nights, the water is getting short and the grey water tank in getting full.
We also have an 1800 watt generator that will give full power to the trailer. The only limit is how long you can go without dumping or running out of water.
Your results will vary!
If you live like a hermit, burn candles, don't run the TV or radio, use a little Coleman heater and don't shower; you could probably go a week or so.
If you run everything, keep the lighs on and don't conserve; you will not even make the first night!
The best thing I can tell you is to just do it. Make a test camp at home or near by and see how it goes.
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Old 01-18-2010, 03:02 PM   #23
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POI...there is a hi-humidity condensation switch(?) that if on, will keep the interior light illuminated 24-7. , never picked up on when reading the manuals, my bad.
Ok,
.9 amps drops to .4 when the climate control switch is turned OFF on my RM2820
With the switch ON and the door open (light on) it jumps to 1.8 amps

Apparently the interior lamp and the climate control are different current draws.
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Old 01-18-2010, 03:13 PM   #24
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... think conservation (i.e. nix the furnace) ...
Me thinks the missus would nix the trip...

The main reason for my figgerin' is to see what time of the day I have an issue. We typically use the most energy in the evening, then run the furnace at night.

Right now the numbers tell me 180 watts of solar, 3 grp27 batts and 1 hour of the Honda 2000 in the evening should be enough.

The disco ball with LED's and 80" big screen really don't pull that much compared to the popcorn machine and beer dispenser/cooler...

Making a math model is a diversion during the cool, wet weekends when I can't camp...
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Old 01-18-2010, 03:17 PM   #25
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Ok,
.9 amps drops to .4 when the climate control switch is turned OFF on my RM2820
With the switch ON and the door open (light on) it jumps to 1.8 amps

Apparently the interior lamp and the climate control are different current draws.
Thanks for checking it. I have been trying to get a "real" number on this for quite a while and the Dometic salesman I talked to were no help.

One of these days I will probably be forced to get a new fridge and since we use solar all these things count.
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:36 PM   #26
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Apparently the interior lamp and the climate control are different current draws.
That may very well be for the 2820. All it says for the RM3662 is that will draw 12v DC when turned on and to make sure it's off when a charging source is not available.
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:58 PM   #27
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I agree with the 2 battery bank with deep cycles, mine total 200 amphours. I have also installed a marine type smart battery charger for when it is on shore pwer to ensure a proper recharge and conditioning when needed. Also in circuit is a marine battery switch that can use one battery at a time, so when the voltage starts to get low on the first then I'm half way through my bank.

Next I want to install solar cells to extend the boondoggle time.

The Toyota TV also has an AC output when the vehicle is running so if it's a shorter trip to the next site I can get a better charge (Last resort).

Of course having a wholsale account at my local marine distributors helps

Anyone ever installed a RAT (Ram air turbine) for charging on the go? Airplanes use them for emergency hydraulics or and AC power. Having a turbine on tow while towing could give an extra charge.........
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:09 PM   #28
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Battery install photos

Here's my marine install system
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