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Old 06-15-2016, 10:20 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Llando88 View Post
Is it possible for this switch (if defective) to prevent charging when on shore power?

Last couple days, my coach ('16 27' FC FB) is not charging when on shore power. It DOES charge when connected to the truck umbilical.

Rich
Batteries not charging when on shore power sounds like a converter problem.
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:28 PM   #16
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Where are the fuses located? My battery disconnect switch is not working either.
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Old 04-26-2017, 08:36 AM   #17
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The fuses are located on the latching relay which will probably be located near the battery. The way mine works is light always on regardless of relay position when connected to shore power. However the switch/relay still works to disconnect/reconnect the battery. So, when on shore power and my battery meter says 100% charged, I tend to disconnect the battery (light stays on). This is probably not necessary as I have new 4-stage converter/charger.

When on battery power alone, the light turns off when battery is disconnected...indicating no 12 volt power source.
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Old 04-26-2017, 10:15 AM   #18
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The best way to tell if it's in use or in store is to disconnect from shore power. If the light goes out on the switch you are either in store mode or your batteries are dead. Try switching to use if needed to see if it works on 12v from the battery. For whatever reason the switch is not a rocker switch, in that it always returns to the middle position.

Also, if you can't get your tongue jack to work because your batteries may be discharged, try hooking up your vehicles 7-way plug and operating the jack from your TV power... worked for me.
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Old 04-26-2017, 11:48 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by ATownTX View Post
The best way to tell if it's in use or in store is to disconnect from shore power. If the light goes out on the switch you are either in store mode or your batteries are dead. Try switching to use if needed to see if it works on 12v from the battery. For whatever reason the switch is not a rocker switch, in that it always returns to the middle position.

Also, if you can't get your tongue jack to work because your batteries may be discharged, try hooking up your vehicles 7-way plug and operating the jack from your TV power... worked for me.
The rocker switch returns to the middle position because it is a momentary switch. If it stayed to one side or the other, the switch would continuously supply voltage to the solenoid coil which in turn would quickly drain down the battery and/or burn out the solenoid coil if not rated for continuous duty.
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Old 04-26-2017, 11:58 AM   #20
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Right, it's a relay switch I think. Someone in an earlier post was thinking it wasn't working because the switch returned to the middle position. I was trying to answer several post... I should have quoted them.

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Originally Posted by David F View Post
The rocker switch returns to the middle position because it is a momentary switch. If it stayed to one side or the other, the switch would continuously supply voltage to the solenoid coil which in turn would quickly drain down the battery and/or burn out the solenoid coil if not rated for continuous duty.
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Old 04-26-2017, 12:02 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by SilverGate View Post
Batteries not charging when on shore power sounds like a converter problem.
It could also be that your battery disconnect is set to store.
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Old 04-26-2017, 01:19 PM   #22
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It's technically a 'latching' relay. The switch briefly supplies power to a coil in the relay that mechanically latches the contacts on or off. The contacts connect the battery to the 12 volt panel in the AS.

The light (LED) simply indicates that power is available to the 12 volt fuse panel. It does not indicate if the relay is on or off.

The switch on the panel makes a quiet click. The actual relay, if it operates, makes a much louder 'clunk' noise. Unfortunately the 'clunk' sounds exactly the same if the relay is turning on or off.

As mentioned, the best way to be sure of the relay position is to disconnect shore power, and see if the light stays on. If the light is on, the relay is 'on' and the batteries have power. If pushing the switch to 'USE' does not result in the 'clunk' from the relay and turns on the light, most likely the batteries are dead...or something like fuses or the relay have an issue.

The phantom loads that are always connected to the battery will kill the batteries eventually. This load is usually the propane detector and possibly the subwoofer. They don't get their power from the 12 volt fuse panel that the 'use/store' relay powers...

In my setup, the solar panel charge controller is connected directly to the batteries so it will charge them regardless of the 'use/store' switch setting. If the relay is set to 'store' the built in convertor will NOT charge the batteries while on shore power...
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Old 04-26-2017, 03:38 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
It's technically a 'latching' relay. The switch briefly supplies power to a coil in the relay that mechanically latches the contacts on or off. The contacts connect the battery to the 12 volt panel in the AS.

The light (LED) simply indicates that power is available to the 12 volt fuse panel. It does not indicate if the relay is on or off.

The switch on the panel makes a quiet click. The actual relay, if it operates, makes a much louder 'clunk' noise. Unfortunately the 'clunk' sounds exactly the same if the relay is turning on or off.

As mentioned, the best way to be sure of the relay position is to disconnect shore power, and see if the light stays on. If the light is on, the relay is 'on' and the batteries have power. If pushing the switch to 'USE' does not result in the 'clunk' from the relay and turns on the light, most likely the batteries are dead...or something like fuses or the relay have an issue.

The phantom loads that are always connected to the battery will kill the batteries eventually. This load is usually the propane detector and possibly the subwoofer. They don't get their power from the 12 volt fuse panel that the 'use/store' relay powers...

In my setup, the solar panel charge controller is connected directly to the batteries so it will charge them regardless of the 'use/store' switch setting. If the relay is set to 'store' the built in convertor will NOT charge the batteries while on shore power...
Above is mostly exactly as I described in previous posts and/or how mine is setup (not factory). Only difference is that I have zero battery loads connected directly to the battery EXCEPT the battery monitor. So, my propane/CO detector gets no power when battery is in "store" mode and shore power disconnected. But, if that scenario occurs, no one is living in the trailer anyway. My theory is that the life of the detector will be prolonged.

The most important item for me is that I do NOT want my battery(ies) to be charged when shore power is connected and the battery switch is in the "store" position. This is easily accomplished by ensuring the charger/converter is connected to the load side of the latching relay.
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:13 PM   #24
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Could I interject on the theme?

I recently experienced an intermittent problem with my disconnect. I charged my batteries in a trickle charger over the winter (as I have every year). Put them in a few weeks ago - they were at 12.6 or 12.8 (fully charged). Not connected to shore power. Flipped the switch to USE and the light flashed for a second then when out and no 12V power.

In another thread I learned about the fuses (they were good), a way to test the switch itself, a chance that the cables connecting the solenoid to the battery could be loose, the batteries might have low voltage (not my case according to my tester) or the converter may have a problem. Since I had the converter swapped out at a dealer in January, I called them - brought it to them and they checked it out.

Everything was fine. Except one of the batteries tested in a different machine (not like my voltage meter) showed full voltage but "49% battery health" - whatever that means. The other battery was also full voltage and 99% battery health.

Does anyone know what that means and whether it could explain the intermittent problem?

I noted that when I plugged the trailer in to shore power, the switch worked fine and the converter was charging because my volt meter had it at 13 something (forgot the exact number but over 13). After unplugging from shore power was able to keep the switch in USE mode on batteries alone for the ride home.

I hate intermittent problems!
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:58 PM   #25
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Intermittent in my non expert opinion means a lose wire or a short. Also, it may have worked when towing because it was getting power from you vehicle.

When I installed my new converter I was getting some weird effects such as you were getting. I disconnected all the 12 v wires at the distribution panel and reconnected them to make sure there were no stray wires causing a short. all was well after that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Could I interject on the theme?

I recently experienced an intermittent problem with my disconnect. I charged my batteries in a trickle charger over the winter (as I have every year). Put them in a few weeks ago - they were at 12.6 or 12.8 (fully charged). Not connected to shore power. Flipped the switch to USE and the light flashed for a second then when out and no 12V power.

In another thread I learned about the fuses (they were good), a way to test the switch itself, a chance that the cables connecting the solenoid to the battery could be loose, the batteries might have low voltage (not my case according to my tester) or the converter may have a problem. Since I had the converter swapped out at a dealer in January, I called them - brought it to them and they checked it out.

Everything was fine. Except one of the batteries tested in a different machine (not like my voltage meter) showed full voltage but "49% battery health" - whatever that means. The other battery was also full voltage and 99% battery health.

Does anyone know what that means and whether it could explain the intermittent problem?

I noted that when I plugged the trailer in to shore power, the switch worked fine and the converter was charging because my volt meter had it at 13 something (forgot the exact number but over 13). After unplugging from shore power was able to keep the switch in USE mode on batteries alone for the ride home.

I hate intermittent problems!
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Old 04-26-2017, 11:55 PM   #26
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Switch not working

My battery disconnect switch light does not go on even when connected to shore power. No lights or monitor will work. Have solar power system showing batteries are charged. Tried clicking switch to "use" several times. Nothing has worked. Ideas?
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Old 04-27-2017, 12:57 AM   #27
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Check fuses connected to the relay
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Old 04-27-2017, 04:41 AM   #28
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let me preface that I am new to airstream ownership (one month) so take that into consideration.

When picking up our 2017 FC 27FB they told me that even with the battery disconnect switch in store mode it will discharge power due to the co2 monitors and lp-gas monitor still being powered. That may take a while but worth a consideration.

I put 2 battery disconnect thingy's (one on each battery) that take seconds to turn on or off and then it is totally disconnected.

here is the one i am using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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