hi, first time post. same problem,plugged in all the time.My question is that my univiolt is on 24/7 with duel batteries.Is there a way to run without them if i am plugged into shore power? My monthly utility charge is sometimes double that of other units. Disconnecting them i lose my fridge. any help would be appreciated.
Reading these messages over the past week or so, I'm convinced that a decent upgrade for the Univolt is the INTELI-POWER. I just bought a 9200 (45amp) for my '77. There were no instructions in the box for installation!
Judging by the connection, it looks like a straight forward install. However, the Univolt appears to be wired with multiple DC outputs.
Do you know where I can get install instructions? What did you do with your Univolt after upgrading with your 9100?
Thanks!
__________________ Art, and "Mighty" Velcro Placitas, New Mexico RIG: '77 Sovereign Land Yacht, Sharp Dual-facial Solar Panel, Honda EU2000i Companion TOWED By: '99 Suburban, 383ci stroker HAM Gear: ICOM 7000, High Sierra 1800pro, W0ABX
WBCCI #: 2197
New Mexico Unit #: 069
Air #: 36503
The original univolt has the DC distribution board attached to it. You must either reuse this board or install a new 12 volt panel. I installed the same unit in my 75 and the installation instructions are very basic. Screw it to the floor, attach the 12 volt output lines and plug it into 120 volts.
Lumatic did a nice modification by mounting the new unit into the shell of the old univolt.
My 1970 31' Airstream is my hunting camper from November through the end of February. I have power and water at camp this year (only had power last several years)!
My old battery was dry as a bone when I pulled it out in March.
I replaced it with a new deep cycle.
After reading and re-reading this topic thread, is it OK to leave the 120 volt shore power plugged in, but disconnect the battery when the trailor is not in use (leaving 120 for the refridgerator)?
I have not measured the voltage output of the univolt - is it adjustable?
many thanks,
Charles Rahm
Dallas, Texas
It is not a good idea to leave a lead acid battery to sit for more than a few weeks if you value longest battery life. You need a battery maintainer that will assure a top charge and do something to inhibit sulfation and stratification.
Holy smokes. I put a voltmeter on my battery and the reading was 17.2 volts!
I had stuck my head in the service area looking for a water leak and I heard the water in the battery boiling.
This is a 1970 unit with the original Univolt.
Didn't someone say the voltage output is adjustable? I examined the Univolt and didn't see an obvious adjusment.
I disconnected my battery (for obvious reasons) and continued to use my 12 volt lights as needed. Isn't this a no-no?
To the best of my knowledge univolts don't have an adjustment and do exactly what you describe if you stay constantly plugged in. Ditch the univolt for an updated converter and these problems will go away. Personally I went with a Inteli-Power but there are others brands. Take a look here. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449/
Holy smokes. I put a voltmeter on my battery and the reading was 17.2 volts!
I had stuck my head in the service area looking for a water leak and I heard the water in the battery boiling.
This is a 1970 unit with the original Univolt.
Didn't someone say the voltage output is adjustable? I examined the Univolt and didn't see an obvious adjusment.
I disconnected my battery (for obvious reasons) and continued to use my 12 volt lights as needed. Isn't this a no-no?
I am plugged into shore power, 120v.
Thanks,
The old style Univolts were subject to failure, when a good power surge took place,
That was coorected many years ago.
Every auto charging system has failures, but when they are very low, that's good.
Airstream's current Univolt, has been in use for a number of years, with a very low failure rate.
Most of the failures you read about, are for the Univolt 5 systems and older.
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