I did some current measurments before and after my Univolt replacement. Before, the old Univolt required 5 to 6 amps at 120 volts, depending on battery condition. It never went below 5 amps.
With the new Intellicharger, it draws about .3 amps with a fully charged battery. Have not had a chance to draw the battery down, but now it looks like I'll save some coin on my electric bill, as well as generator fuel when boondocking!
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CP 9 miles off Exit 399, I75.
2003 GMC 2500HD 4X4 D/A Ext. Cab
Propane Powered Honda EU2000i
Lots of Hot Sauce! Air # 283
While we're at it, Pick, when you use your gen when boondocking, do you attach the gen directly to the battery or just plug your coach into it and let the intellipower charge them as it runs.
hi, first time post. same problem,plugged in all the time.My question is that my univiolt is on 24/7 with duel batteries.Is there a way to run without them if i am plugged into shore power? My monthly utility charge is sometimes double that of other units. Disconnecting them i lose my fridge. any help would be appreciated.
What's happening is the when I'm hooked up to city power, the interior lights will come on bright. Than after a while they will slowly dim to nothing.
When I listen to the Uni-volt it sounds as though something 'clicks' and than the lights come back on. As for the battery, I replaced it about 2 months ago and during a recent camping trip we used our generator.
It seems that the uni-volt will keep the lights on and operate everything when I take the battery out of the circuit, but once I put it back in we have the same problem. Could it be a bad battery already?
Mitch
I've been searching these threads for someone who described the issue I'm having with the electrical system in my 1970 Caravel. My lights dim and surge when I am hooked up to shore power and the battery is connected. I also hear the clicking in the univolt that you describe. If the battery is disconnected the power is full and consistent. If I am running solely on the battery, power is consistent as well.
What was the solution to your problem? I was prepared to pull out the univolt and take it to someone who said it was a bad converter, but I thought I would try the forum first. Any insight?
I've been searching these threads for someone who described the issue I'm having with the electrical system in my 1970 Caravel. My lights dim and surge when I am hooked up to shore power and the battery is connected. I also hear the clicking in the univolt that you describe. If the battery is disconnected the power is full and consistent. If I am running solely on the battery, power is consistent as well.
What was the solution to your problem? I was prepared to pull out the univolt and take it to someone who said it was a bad converter, but I thought I would try the forum first. Any insight?
Thanks
If your converter is original, it is a bad converter by date and design. Just the facts but some will play with them for the nostalgic charge and that is fine, kinda cool but not practical. Sort of like going to the fair and watching the old single cylinder engines on display, facinating. Anyway, take that guy up on his offer. I'll buy it if you can show me why you wish you didn't upgrade.
As one who has designed and installed dozens of complicated electrical, battery, and charging systems in expensive yachts, i have tossed my three cents worth in some of these threads about batterys and such; But i remember what a naval engineer said to me: " you can't have to many batterys".
I finaly steped up and bought a 60 Amp Intelli-Power Charger.
My question is: There are tree wires under the front couch.
One is white,one is Black is very small and a ground wire which is a copper ground wire. The red wire is no problem but the white and black drive me nuts. Which is the ground for the battery?
I have a schematic for my 1985 Sov. But it does not show how the hook up is for the charger.
Please write or send directly to me at rdworian@comcast.net
Thank you for any help.
Russell in Sunny and cool Tucson Az.
Howdy,
Their are two configurations to my DC wiring. The normal Red being positve Black being negative. The other is Black being positve and White being negative. Be careful and check polarity or continuity with an ohm meter if you are ever confused which is which or where things go before energizing. Sure wish I had some time to work on my wiring some more. If you do not already have one, a nice distribution block by your new charger sure makes the install clean Good Luck and have fun!!
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Hi All,
Good Luck and have fun!!
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