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Old 08-04-2006, 01:07 AM   #15
Rivet Master
1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
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Posts: 1,352
The solenoid to use is made by (cole hersey) it is a continuouse duty
solenoid made for industrial use ,such as on powerline service trucks with
the bucket crane .You can run battery cable 4 gauge to the trailer and
the alternator if you wish ,the solenoid isolates immediately when you shut off your truck .Independent of the trucks own system.Those rv isolators
take 1 full volt of battery power to operate ,which means 13.50 volts
instead of 14.50 basically ,your output may vary slightly .I have installed many of these in place of the common Rv isolator with great results.
how about an eu2000 honda for charging during camping ,has 12volt wire
leads included ,they are very quiet and could run during the day without
much noise.

Scott of scottanlily

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Old 08-04-2006, 06:54 AM   #16
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How about just using the generator hooked to your 12 v converter to charge the battery? All these wiring confabulations seem futile to me. It takes time to charge a battery, so unless you are on a 1000 mile trip, what's the point?

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Old 08-04-2006, 08:03 AM   #17
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2003 22' International CCD
Fullarton , Ontario
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The Seven Way Harness can never pass enough current to keep the trailer batteries charged if you were to run any equiptment in the trailer that needs any signifigant amount of amps.

I have mounted one of the 250A 3 Bank Version in the Ford 250.

And using the Tectran 2 Pole Plug and Socket Sets
inconjuction with the ArcticFlex 2 Wire 4 Gauge Battery Cable
I ran the 2 sets of Cable to the Rear of the truck from the PathMaker.

I placed one Plug in the Box of the pickup where I keep a set of Golf Cart batteries. These are charged while we drive.

The other socket is located on the opposite side of the Trailer Connector.
I then have a second socket directly wired to the Batteries on the Trailer (Mathcing Set of Golf Cart Batteries to the ones in the Truck) that I plug into the Truck when driving. I can keep the Fridge running on AC using the Inverter, instead of using Propane when on the road.

When we reach our destination, I connect the set of batteries in the Box of the Truck to the Trailer. If we go on a day trip I pull the plug from the Trailer and plug it back in the truck and are charging again as we drive.
“Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted Time.” Bertrand Russell

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Old 08-04-2006, 08:51 AM   #18
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Waddell , Arizona
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Originally Posted by loechli
Any updates?
did you end up running the 4 Gauge wire?
How does it work?
Sorry, nothing new to report as far as rewiring my truck. What I DID discover is that my original converter isn't charging my trailer batteries so I bought a 60 AMP Intelli-Power converter with the built-in charge wizard.

Now I just need to find the time to install it!
Steve Heywood
Waddell, AZ
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Old 08-04-2006, 09:01 AM   #19
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2006 30' Classic
Farmington , New Mexico
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Just finished reading all the replys to this thread --WOW you would think it took an electrical engineer to go camping. Lots of advice and I'm sure most would work. My question is why go through all that hassel when all you have to do is set a little Honda generator beside the trailer and plug it in. How difficult can that be? Not mentioned is that if your trade tow vehicles or need to use a different one all that STUFF has to be transfered. It just seems like a lot of work pieman
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Old 08-04-2006, 09:20 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Mike Lewis
. My question is why go through all that hassel when all you have to do is set a little Honda generator beside the trailer and plug it in.
I can think of about 1000 rea$on$.....
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Old 08-04-2006, 10:03 AM   #21
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Sort of related to what you are trying to do, we have been studying these
Digital Duo Charge
Randy 208-514-8950
Converters, Inverters, Monitors, EMS, Zamp Solar
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Old 08-04-2006, 12:38 PM   #22
Rivet Master
1975 29' Ambassador
Reno , Nevada
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So what is the solution? I don’t know
OK, I'll try again.

The problems to solve, in order of priority, are
1) isolation between house and engine battery
2) avoiding alternator overload
3) line voltage drop to a trailer house battery
4) full and effective charging of house battery
5) rapid charging of house battery

Isolation is the most standard RV install. Overload is usually handled by fusing. And that is as far as a 'normal' RV install usually goes. Usually works OK for most folks.

To take care of effective charging, the Balmer Link looks like a good way to go but line drop might be a problem. I can't tell if it can be set to limit charge current but it appears to have the intelligence needed to do so.

Another idea, such as I suggested earlier, is at
This a 4 stage, 3 level, 8 amp 12v battery charger that uses an input voltage of 10 to 15 volts. Overall charge efficiency is about 80%. You put this in your trailer near the battery and you should get a decent charge in transit without having to worry about overloading the truck alternator or line volt drops or improper truck supply causing improper charging.

Or you could just put a decent inverter in the Truck, run 110v back to the trailer, and use a decent converter and charger (that you should have in the trailer, anyway) to charge the battery.
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Old 08-04-2006, 07:35 PM   #23
Rivet Master
1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
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Hey eveyone,

the bottom line is it just takes time to recharge the batteries ,so if they are being used over the weekend and they run down ,it will take a while for the
tv to charge them up , I use the honda ,works very good 8 amps ,quiet .
the tv will take alot of time to charge them and you would have to really
have the engine revved up or be driving to get enough amps to charge the batteries .I have my tv setup with the solenoid and charge wire to the trailer battery also and a 10 amp portable charger ,a small float charger wired in to the fuse panel to the battery to maintain it at all times .so I keep different
methods on hand to keep the battery up .I would advise multiple methods
as such so to keep those batteries alive when needed.

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