Visit our Popular Forums

PJohnson · 05-19-2010, 11:18 AM

We just purchased a 2010 27' Front Bedroom Classic Limited. When I attempted to service the batteries, I needed to disconnect the positive cable from the battery in order to slide the battery out of the left battery compartment (the right battery cables are long enough to slide the battery out without disconnecting either cable). Since I would like to service the battery without disconnecting the positive cable and because I do not like using a wrench on the positive terminal so close to the aluminum shell, I would like to replace the battery cable. The problem I am having is getting access to the battery compartment from inside of the trailer. There is a small access panel for some of the electrical connections under the bed but it does not allow access to the battery compartments. Do I have to remove the bed frame and cabinets, then remove the "box" that covers the front compartments? If so, how do I go about this?

2airishuman · 05-19-2010, 11:29 AM

queen bed?

start by dragging the mattress OUT of the area.

platform should LIFT up and the battery boxes should be visible.

it's very cumbersome to work through the frame/platform, so...

ultimately the bed frame may need to be UNscrewed from the floor and removed 2.

i don't recall ne1 with a front bed classic posting pics of THIS AREA (bed/storage/battery boxes)...

so IF YOU POST PIX it will help everyone and might generate better ideas from others.

totally different model and but here's an example of taking out the bed frame for access to that space...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f468...-se-56222.html
_______________

my understanding is the battery wires are PRE CUT so it's hard to imagine they are too short,

of course they COULD be or the installer may have been given the wrong set for this floor plan.

OR they may be poorly positioned, with TOO MUCH of the cable INSIDE vs outside...

which means there may be enough length to PULL some outside and solve the issue.

but before tugging identify the wires INSIDE/along the wall and have some sealant handy to REseal the hole.

this is the typical front sofa wiring in a classic and the fat RED wires screwed to the wall are the issue...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...tml#post834064

again a front sofa layout but the photos in post #8 below more clearly show the battery boxes and wiring along the wall

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...tml#post769671

the take home message is that removing INTERIOR furnishings and cabinetry provides MUCH better access.

toss up some pix of your layout and that space.

cheers
2air'

HowieE · 05-19-2010, 03:23 PM

Is the ground cable long enough to just turn the battery around and still get the battery out for service?

Over59 · 05-19-2010, 06:11 PM

Sounds like a warranty issue to me. The dealer should thank you for the opportunity to fix it.

PJohnson · 05-19-2010, 09:13 PM

2airishuman

Thank you for the reply. I will post some photographs on Monday. We are taking the 27FB on is maiden voyage tomorrow.

HowieE

There is no way that the battery can be turned or repositioned. The cable is barely long enough to go straight up from where it enters the battery box to the positive terminal.

Over59,

When I contacted an airstream dealer, they suggested that they would cut off the battery connector, solder on a new length of cable and insulate it with shrink wrap. Sound like a jury-rig to me.

Jammer · 05-19-2010, 10:51 PM

Well, it's your trailer, but I would make these observations:

1) If you can more easily get at the negative terminals of both (or all if you have more than two) batteries, disconnect those first, and the shore power, and then it doesn't matter if you short the positive to ground any more.

2) Tape your wrench and any other tools you use. The guys I know who work on the -48vdc systems at telcos and the +24vdc systems at cell sites do hot work all the time and the key to doing it safely is to wrap any metallic tools in electrical tape so that they will not produce a short in the event of a slip or other mishap.

3) Use the most appropriate tools for the job. If you need a u-joint socket, a longer extension, or a crowfoot wrench to undo the terminal, then go buy one. It will be cheaper and less hassle than screwing around putting in a longer cable

my two cents

Mexray · 05-19-2010, 11:54 PM

Our older AS with the same two compartments and have quick-disconnects, two prong plugs for the POS and NEG battery cables, so that you can unplug the connection - then slide the battery out of the compartment with the 'harness' cables attached to the battery terminals...

Without that Q-D, to remove the battery, it would be nearly impossible to unbolt the cables from the battery...From your description, it appears AS has changed that installation, removing the Q-D plug and battery harness from the set-up...really a shame, as the Q-D makes it a slick, easy to remove set-up...

Is it possible that your AS also has this kind of Q-D harness, and it's tucked away where you can't see it...or it's laying under the battery when it got shoved together?...if your POS cable is all that short, I find it hard to visualize how AS got it together in the first place - OR - did the selling dealer install the batteries?

Just some thoughts...

Ray

thecatsandi · 05-20-2010, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PJohnson

Over59,

When I contacted an airstream dealer, they suggested that they would cut off the battery connector, solder on a new length of cable and insulate it with shrink wrap. Sound like a jury-rig to me.

It is a jury rig. you can loosen the connector going through the box into the trailer. it is a compression fitting.
I would demand your dealer fix it properly.

Over59 · 05-20-2010, 07:15 AM

Call the factory. Tell them the problem and the half a.. solution you were offered. This is a defect in manufacturing that is easy to fix with a little skill and effort. Folks here may be interested in the name of the dealer so they can avoid their shop if the service manager is so ready to screw over a new purchaser. If you let them put you off with this they'll do the same thing when the next problem comes up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PJohnson

2airishuman

Thank you for the reply. I will post some photographs on Monday. We are taking the 27FB on is maiden voyage tomorrow.

HowieE

There is no way that the battery can be turned or repositioned. The cable is barely long enough to go straight up from where it enters the battery box to the positive terminal.

Over59,

When I contacted an airstream dealer, they suggested that they would cut off the battery connector, solder on a new length of cable and insulate it with shrink wrap. Sound like a jury-rig to me.

mello mike · 05-20-2010, 07:58 AM

I agree with Over59. This issue falls under the warranty. I would have them fix it and fix it right. If you must, get JC involved.

HowieE · 05-20-2010, 08:04 AM

One other thing to check. Lift the couch or what ever is over the battery boxes on the inside of the trailer. Look at the amount of cable that may be slack on that side of the box. If there is slack loosen the Heyco Connector on the box and slide in as much slack as you can.

When repairing my rear floor I found more than 6 ft of extra shore line wound up in the belle pan.

If you have to add cable I would do it inside the trailer, and make the connection on a terminal block rather than a splice, and slip the original through the Heyco connector into the battery box. Do not let them make a soldered connection, especially not in the box.

Aerowood · 05-20-2010, 09:18 AM

You could install these disconnects

McMaster-Carr

Wild Rose · 04-27-2013, 05:08 PM

I need to replace the Curb Side Positive Battery Cable on our 2008 Classic 27FB (crack in the terminal clamp). Waiting until it fails is not an option. Any ideas on how to replace it? Can't find where the cable runs to and don't want to splice it, unreliable long term. Pictures would help! Many Thanks.

ROBERT CROSS · 04-27-2013, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Rose

I need to replace the Curb Side Positive Battery Cable on our 2008 Classic 27FB (crack in the terminal clamp). Waiting until it fails is not an option. Any ideas on how to replace it? Can't find where the cable runs to and don't want to splice it, unreliable long term. Pictures would help! Many Thanks.

This style has worked well on our boat. Solid electrical connection, good quality. Good for a race car, should work on an AS.

OH....by the way, WELCOME ABOARD!!

Bob

**GCinSC2** · 04-27-2013, 06:09 PM

Wild Rose,

I just replaced all 4 terminals with eyelets. My cables are a #6 so I found #6 crimp eyelet ends, they can be insulated or w/o but the ones I found at hardware store on had a 1/4" hole, battery is 5/16". Got my drill and took care of that issue. I have a pair of Klein lineman pilers that will crimp the connection if you use it w/o insulation. Then I used heat shrink tubing and maintained the terminal covers for safety. The disconnects are also available thru Grainger, they are the small version of what is commonly used on lift truck battery connections, select by wire size and I think crimping required. I've considered them also. The square lug I think is a lug used in house wiring.

Good luck,

Gary

Jammer · 04-27-2013, 08:59 PM

If all you need is a new terminal, you can get a high-quality solder pot terminal from any good auto parts place or Del City or any number of other places. They have solder slugs you put in the pot on the terminal, heat with a torch, and push the wire into the pot. I've found them to be extremely reliable.