Battery Cable Crimping Tool Help

[noleander]

In the middle of replacing interstate batteries with AGM's and would like to replace the standard automotive battery connector with a copper eyelet. From what I gather, mostly from reading Lewster's posts (thank you), the proper procedure is to crimp not solder.

So, I guess that means ordering the appropriate sized eyelet connector and crimping tool. Feels like the tool, if of proper quality, is a one time use tool that maybe expensive.

So, does anyone have one that I can borrow either in the Salt Lake City area or the Idaho Falls area or is there an alternative recommendation for this procedure?

I will be ordering the parallel cables from Lewster, so no need to use the tool but this once on the battery cables.

Thanks in advance for the Advice.

Ted

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Copper eyelet? Are we talking about a lug connector or something else?

The reason I ask - un-plated copper is not a real good thing inside a battery box. Connectors are plated to reduce that problem.

The tools involved are specialized but not rare. A local electrician should have what you need. You probably will have to use the connector (lug) that matches up with his tool. That's just the way this stuff works.

Bob

[noleander]

Yes, a lug connector, sorry for the confusion.

[Tsunami-v2]

I purchased a hydraulic cable/lug press from Harbor Freight crimp all the cables when I installed the AM Solar system in/on my AS. Was inexpensive and worked great. It's a hand held, hand pump unit.

[featherbedder]

When ordering cables from Lewster just have him crimp on as he will have every thing proper to do plus eyelets, if don't no length of cables needed simple job to measure yourself. Some auto parts store have loaner tools also, only cost is deposit returned when tool returned.

[NoResults]

When I made some changes I just went to the local battery store that does batteries and nothing more. They cut the cables and put the ends on while I waited.

Dave

[rmkrum]

also, use plated terminals, not plain copper, and use marine-grade heat shrink with the sealant inside to keep moisture and other nastiness out of the crimp area...

[68 TWind]

Might try a local machine shop or tractor/equipment repair shop. Our local NAPA has a small machine shop in the back and they will crimp the connectors for free if you buy the cable from them.

[JimskyD]

I use lugs and cable from a marine supply store as they are rated for severe environmental conditions. I use lugs that are plated and a crimper that the store will loan me, especially if I need to do the crimping on a cable that is already captive to the trailer. Most importantly I feel that a small length of adhesive coated shrink tubing seals the whole crimp job and keeps nasty stuff from getting and corroding the joint.

Good luck

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by noleander

In the middle of replacing interstate batteries with AGM's and would like to replace the standard automotive battery connector with a copper eyelet. From what I gather, mostly from reading Lewster's posts (thank you), the proper procedure is to crimp not solder.

So, I guess that means ordering the appropriate sized eyelet connector and crimping tool. Feels like the tool, if of proper quality, is a one time use tool that maybe expensive.

So, does anyone have one that I can borrow either in the Salt Lake City area or the Idaho Falls area or is there an alternative recommendation for this procedure?

I will be ordering the parallel cables from Lewster, so no need to use the tool but this once on the battery cables.

Thanks in advance for the Advice.

Ted

What's the matter with soldering?
I do it frequently, and to my mind, It's the best way to ensure connection.
Heat shrink tube over after.

[rmkrum]

As has been pointed out a whole bunch of times, solder crystallizes from vibration and the joint fails. A good gas-tight crimp is what is used on aircraft, spacecraft, and anything that has to survive vibration, like a typical Airstream trailer. As a Boeing retiree, and a still-practicing engineer, crimp is the only way to go, assuming appropriate tools and parts.

[youngpeck]

I'll add to that. A month ago the local power company had to shorten the low-hanging power lines between two poles (about 200 feet apart) on my property. While working from elevated buckets, they cut the power, cut and then crimped the newly-shortened wires. I asked about it, and they said it's much stronger than any other connection. And, yes, those wires dance every now and then during wind storms.

I, too, bought the wire crimper at Harbor Freight. Works fine.

[Boxite]

I've satisfactorily-crimped large cables by using a tubing-flaring tool in a bench-vise. The eyelet can be placed in the tubing holder, the cable inserted, and the holder tightly-closed within the jaws of a bench vise.

Soldering hardens the conductor at the edge of the soldered joint and sets up a stress-riser which may eventually fail from vibration. After crimping, good quality RTV can be smeared on the joint and then heat-shrink will make a nice, clean, final to protect it.

"Tinning" is sometimes used to belay corrosion. Tinning is the use of high tin-content plating on the individual strands of a cable before the cable is wound. This is commonly done by mfr's of aircraft and marine wire/cable and is why it costs more than the common household/automotive stuff. However, soldering the cable after it's wound is not a good idea for the already mentioned reasons.

[Chuck]

{barge}

do you think I'd need that kind of crimper (the Harbor Freight one) to crimp a lug onto a #6 wire? Or would a typical hand crimper/pliers work?

(I ran some #6 as a solar pre-wire for possible future solar panels; had the walls open for a full monty, so I took the opportunity to put wiring in while I had the chance. )

[rmkrum]

Hydraulic crimper of some sort is better than hand crimper. You need a lot of pressure to get a gas-tight crimp. The terminal and wire need to end up as a solid mass of metal with no air spaces.

[WayneG]

I have found nothing wrong with soldering cables large & small, as long as you use the correct solder & flux, the right amount of solder and heat and clean connections.
A good crimp works as long as moister and road salt do not get to it.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

As has been pointed out a whole bunch of times, solder crystallizes from vibration and the joint fails. A good gas-tight crimp is what is used on aircraft, spacecraft, and anything that has to survive vibration, like a typical Airstream trailer. As a Boeing retiree, and a still-practicing engineer, crimp is the only way to go, assuming appropriate tools and parts.

You make a good point, but...........
I spent two days in Kutching, Malaysia, trying to solve an electrical problem on a DHC-8/300. (Amongst other chores)
It turned out that the problem was a poor crimp in a wire connector, a situation that I thought was impossible, due to the way they are crimped at the factory.
The snag was solved by my inspector who found the weak crimp. [giving me a red face.]
He crimped it with a wire cutter. It worked.
I had never looked at the connector. Because........
When looking at a crimper at the factory, they seemed to be fool-proof, and so I had not considered the connector to be a problem.
Lesson learned!
I do crimp connectors now; but in many cases, prefer to solder them.
and have NEVER had a joint fail.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by youngpeck

I'll add to that. A month ago the local power company had to shorten the low-hanging power lines between two poles (about 200 feet apart) on my property. While working from elevated buckets, they cut the power, cut and then crimped the newly-shortened wires. I asked about it, and they said it's much stronger than any other connection. And, yes, those wires dance every now and then during wind storms.

I, too, bought the wire crimper at Harbor Freight. Works fine.

Interesting!
I have seen our Hydro guys connect two wires using a kind of 'wedging' device.
The device takes a wire on either side, parallel to each other, a wedge goes in between them and is slammed shut with a hammer. The tighter the line pulls, the tighter the wedge holds. Seems to work ok.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by WayneG

I have found nothing wrong with soldering cables large & small, as long as you use the correct solder & flux, the right amount of solder and heat and clean connections.
A good crimp works as long as moister and road salt do not get to it.

That's what silicone grease and heat shrink tubing is for.

[Cristobal]

I've used a vise and laid a bolt across the connector to crimp it. Worked for me.