I will be in town tomorrow evening so I plan to check it out and see what I can do.Well its a lesson learned.I will be looking at some AMG'S if these can not be saved which I am thinking they are goners now.
Thanks.I will check on that also.
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Ok ... I have searched the forums but is there a certain type of battery that should be used with a certain type of Airstream?I have a 2005 25'SS and my batteries are dead.I have been noticing this for a while now and it has been on a downward trend slowly getting worse in time.Today when I went to town to check on it I was going to fill up the toilet with a bit more water before it dried out and the pump would not work.I checked the batteries and they are dead.
So...What type of Battiery should I get.I dont really know much about them but I would like to get 2 really good ones.I have noticed that everyone talks about certain brands but what do you all think would be a good choice for me to use?
I dont really boondock and if I do it is because I am pulling over for the night to get to my destination.
Thanks everyone.
I have a 2005 28' Safari and it has an Intellitec battery disconnect switch just inside the door, so you already have a battery disconnect, if its working. I think it is standard. I just replaced my batteries with 2 Trojan T145 6volt golf cart batteries, because my old ones went dead and the old ones didn't have as much capacity as I wanted. I had to do a bit of a modification to the battery box to increase the height, but the footprint was fine. They aren't cheap. I also replaced the power converter with a three stage Xantrex XADC-60 to charge the new batteries. I'm thinking they should last awhile with a better charger.
I hope this is the approiate place and time. I just bought 2 AMG batteries. They are on trickel now /Not yet installed, Should I consider a desulpher unit to install also along with my new batterys? I did read something about it here,but cant find the thread. I know Use the search but I dont know exactly what to ask for.
Thanks In advance
Roger
I hope this is the approiate place and time. I just bought 2 AMG batteries. They are on trickel now /Not yet installed, Should I consider a desulpher unit to install also along with my new batterys? I did read something about it here,but cant find the thread. I know Use the search but I dont know exactly what to ask for.
Thanks In advance
Roger
Been using the Vector, VEC 1093D for the last two seasons. It's been a
Devoman, you and I have the same unit and have observed many of the same things. I too am in need of batteries as mine too have bit the dust. I know why mine are poor though. I let them totally discharge 2x. After the 2nd time, I just never took them out for the winter and left them to discharge yet again this winter. Keep in mind that even though you may use the bypass, killing power to most of the gear in the Safari by using the disconnect switch, it does not kill everything.
Additionally it has been suggested that the OEM converters do not have 3 way charging. I've been looking at doing this:
In the meantime, I plan on getting some plain jane Die Hards. I've used 'em in my boat and cars for decades. No battery will last forever and I have the Yamaha EU1000 for those boondocking days where I don't need battery life to last for days under full load. I just need a LP source.
I think the 2 6v options are the best IMHO, but I don't want to modify the battery box.
If you do the bestconverter modification, you won't need to worry about a shut off switch, but as 2Air pointed out sulfer buildup may be an issue, but after 3-4 seasons, depending on care, most need a replacement if you want the high end of the abilities of the batteries.
After about $275 for wheel bearing repack and $400 for tires, and soon to be about $175-$200 for 2 new deep cycle batteries, my mod to the converter is a few months out. Hopefully I can swing a few uses out of the old batts until I get the new converter installed to help the new batts last.
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In the meantime, I plan on getting some plain jane Die Hards. I've used 'em in my boat and cars for decades. No battery will last forever and I have the Yamaha EU1000 for those boondocking days where I don't need battery life to last for days under full load. I just need a LP source.
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If you do the bestconverter modification, you won't need to worry about a shut off switch, but as 2Air pointed out sulfer buildup may be an issue, but after 3-4 seasons, depending on care, most need a replacement if you want the high end of the abilities of the batteries.
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Die Hards are automotive starter batteries. Not the best choice--they are designed for intermittent 500 Amp short duration discharge, not even similar to hours-long, 10 Amp discharge. Get similar sized marine batteries (until you're ready to step up to AGMs or some such) for same cost and they will last longer. Available at WallyMart (ugh) and many other places.
I have been noticing this for a while now and it has been on a downward trend slowly getting worse in time
Typical aging process - you should be able to get 5 to 7 years out of lead acid batteries.
Which batteries to get is more of a personal issue as long as you get batteries designed for your type of use of the proper capacity for your needs. I'd recommend buying from a retailer who sells a lot of batteries to people who use them like you do and who will stand behind what he sells.
The AGM such as Lifeline or Optima are nice but it is not clear that they are truly cost effective. They may last up to ten years but the major problem there is, like for wet cells, use and maintenance. Do pay close attention to charging and maintenance specifications for these as they may differ somewhat from the usual wet cell batteries
For longest life, cycle your batteries down at least 10% to 50% each use (thats to between 12.4v and 12.0v after resting for a half hour or more). Recharge them promptly and fully with a properly sized 3 stage battery charger. When not in use for more than a week or two, get a good battery maintainer on them that will keep the charge topped off and inhibit sulfation. The PD+Chargewizard or WFCO converters or equivalent should be high on your list for this. The BatteryMinder+ is another option. Again, these are for wet cell lead acid and you need to be careful to follow manufacturer recommendations for AGM's.
Also try to keep your batteries out of the heat. Hot and incomplete charge make for very rapid battery aging.
The issues of battery isolation are not an issue if you keep a proper maintainer on them but it is still a good idea.
In the meantime, I plan on getting some plain jane Die Hards. I've used 'em in my boat and cars for decades. No battery will last forever and I have the Yamaha EU1000 for those boondocking days where I don't need battery life to last for days under full load. I just need a LP source.
I think the 2 6v options are the best IMHO, but I don't want to modify the battery box.
If you are talking about automotive batteries that would be a big mistake. Automotive and deep cycle batteries have a very different design.
There a few Marine deep cycles on the sears website that would probably work fine.
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Before getting our '65 Caravel, we had a houseboat for 27 years on the Sacramento Delta. I used four Trojan 105s. I bought several sets in that length of time, and didn't have any fail "before their time".
I installed two Trojan 105s on the Caravel. I have found them to have the "most bang for the buck". I had to move the propane bottles a couple of inches forward turn the battery frame 90 degrees, make an additional frame and install them side by side. Took about two hours. I also installed a 350 watt pure sine wave inverter to run the "Dish", HDTV, laptop and any other electronic stuff that might like good 110v electricity.
I have considered a solar charging system, however we seldom boondock for more than a day or two at a time. When boondocking, I carry a Honda 1000 which will run the espresso maker, microwave and give the batteries a charge if necessary.
Sears has a Diehard marine/RV deep cycle version too. I am on my 4th season with a set and they are doing fine. If the trailer isn't going to be used for a 3 weeks or more, I pull the batteries and put them on a Battery Minder (I don't store the trailer at home). During the winter storage season, I find I have to top off the battery electrolyte once or twice in 5 months with the Battery Minder.
Almost all of my camping is without hookups and the standard flooded batteries work fine for me. I can't justify the cost of the Optimas or similar AGM brands.
I think the 2 6v options are the best IMHO, but I don't want to modify the battery box.
The battery box modification isn't that bad. I've attached a photo of mine & you can see what was done with aluminum channel & rivets. I think it was worth it to get the Trojan T145's in place. In this photo, I had the ground off, as I was installing the Xantrex charger.
I also put in a Xantrex XADC-60 to handle the multi-stage charging. It went in fairly easy. It fits well into the comparment & I've written up the procedure on how to do it.
The cost does add up: $370 for two T145's, $220 for the converter, and $50 for miscellaneous parts & paint & it cost me $640 and three hours of time to make the conversion. I'm expecting it to pay off in the long run with better performance and longer life from the batteries. That's not to say I couldn't have improved things with a better converter/charger and lower quality batteries, but after my research I decided on this route.
Sears has a Diehard marine/RV deep cycle version too. I am on my 4th season with a set and they are doing fine.
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Almost all of my camping is without hookups and the standard flooded batteries work fine for me. I can't justify the cost of the Optimas or similar AGM brands.
Thanks, Alan. I was unaware--I've been looking for other sources of marine batteries since Costco reduced their inventory.
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Been using the Vector, VEC 1093D for the last two seasons. It's been a
I was unaware--I've been looking for other sources of marine batteries since Costco reduced their inventory. 
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