Batteries ka-put our first time out

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by billrector

Agree! I wasn't so much implying that the battery was fully charged by the time I got to NAPA just that the batteries had been under charge. I'm assuming that you really need to wait a few hours after ANY charge before testing the batteries?

Hi

Looking at battery voltage to figure out state of charge is only making a guess at what is going on. There are is a long list of gotcha issues when doing this. Battery voltage is impacted a lot by temperature. Voltage drops in cables (and in batteries) when charging or discharging throw off the numbers. Electrolyte settling in a cell impacts what you see.

That all *assumes* your meter is accurate. Unfortunately this is not always the case. A $20 multimeter from Home Depot has a much better chance of being accurate than one of the panels in your trailer. It also gives you another digit or three of data on your reading. Checking your readouts is part of troubleshooting battery issues ....

Bob

[geta356911]

I had a simular problem of my batteries discharging to a dangerous state, in less than a month of storage, not plugged in to power.
I found, that my converter, draws about 50ma itself when the ac power is not plugged in. This is to power the "brain" within the converter, and after a while, discharges a battery!
I solved the problem initially, by placing a cutoff switch to the batteries.
Then, the better solution, a 100watt solar panel with a good quality solar controller...

GT

[Lljones07]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

Charge fuse ... where might I find such a thing in my Airstream?

The charge fuse is located in the fuse box, in the panel below the wardrobe. It’s green.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Lljones07

The charge fuse is located in the fuse box, in the panel below the wardrobe. It’s green.

Hi

As with all things on an AS ... if you have a different model or year, who knows what you may have or where it may be . If it's not in the location indicated above, check the owners manual.

Bob

[OTRA15]

. . . which should have the electrical schematics in the later pages.

[WhereStream]

I could not get the batteries to hold a charge, and after a week with the switch in “use” mode the batteries were starved for water.

Never had batteries so dry.

Put some water in but decided they were toast.

Guy at Interstate was at first skeptical. Kept the batteries to test ... two days later, I got a new set under warranty (a month before the warranty was to expire).

I bought a battery maintainer to use, until I figure out what went wrong with the Airstream’s charger.

Now need to squeeze the batteries back in the box on the tongue and do the complicated hook up. Wires everywhere. Glad I took a photo before I pulled the wounded.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

I could not get the batteries to hold a charge, and after a week with the switch in “use” mode the batteries were starved for water.

Never had batteries so dry.
. . .

Did you check the water level at the beginning, and each day during the week of charging? Are you saying that the battery water was full at the start, and dry a week later? If so, your converter/charger may be bad, and will ruin the new batteries IMO.

Now that you are aware of possible problems, a daily check of water level and battery voltage [one hour after unplugging the shore power] would be advisable IMO.

If you see any reduction in battery water level during the first few days of charging the new batteries, I would suggest disconnecting the shore power, and having an RV service person check the converter/charger's voltage output and operation.

Good luck,

Peter

[WhereStream]

I checked the battery water level and added water before I turned the switch to “use.”

About a week later, batteries needed an awful lot of water.

For now, I’m going to charge them in my garage, then put them on a maintainer.

I have my doubts about the converter/charger in the new Airstream, but the dealer is over two hours away.

[OTRA15]

Ditto to your doubts!

Maybe call the dealer AND Airstream’s 800 service number, and ask them to authorize a service call to your AS? Measuring the charger’s voltage output should be relatively simple.

BTW are you documenting all this in emails with the dealer and AS?

Good luck!

Peter

[WhereStream]

Dealer followup ... I've not been in touch with the dealer since I initially told them about the problem (and got confusing info back regarding the Use-Store button).

Good idea to fill the dealer in. I've not contacted Airstream. I assumed the folks at the mothership would say, "A dealer issue."

[OTRA15]

Apparently AS has an 800 number which others have found to be helpful when the dealer is not doing his or her job. Your AS briefcase probably has this number in it or in the owner’s manual. I would pull out all the stops and get more proactive on this IMO.

Squeaky wheel . . . grease . . . etc.

[PKI]

Battery charge level is key to battery life. Never allow a wet cell battery charge level to be less than 50% or 12.2 volts. A full charge is 12.6/7 volts. Charge level can only be determined when the battery sits with no outside power source for 30-60 minutes. It is a bit more technical than that, but good enough until you assimilate the additional detail.

You have new batteries. The late model converter is supposed to be good enough. Have the dealer verify it is working correctly. Install a good quality battery monitor (or use a hydrometer), a battery disconnect switch (or disconnect/remove batteries) for storage, and a plan to do more camping.

Travel safe. Pat

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

I checked the battery water level and added water before I turned the switch to “use.”

About a week later, batteries needed an awful lot of water.

For now, I’m going to charge them in my garage, then put them on a maintainer.

I have my doubts about the converter/charger in the new Airstream, but the dealer is over two hours away.

I think your suspicions about the converter are accurate!

Similar story with my good friends 2017', 23D. He had battery issues 1 month after picking up his unit. Interstate and said he had bad cells and replaced. 1 month later, same issue; would not hold a charge, he thought...Interstate checked batteries, and said they were fine. I replaced both my batteries and my Converter also within 6 months of taking delivery on my 2017 for same issues.

In my friends case, he heard his converter fan running all the time. Just last week, he took his 23D to AS service guys and they told him his converter was bad. They said the converter was not charging the batteries at all, even though the it was running on shore power. They recommended he replace the converter, so he moved to a Progressive Dynamics 4600 series multi-stage charger; now everything is fine. (this change is recommended by several AS techs as an aftermarket "upgrade"..)

My friend worked with the local AS dealer once the problem was identified, and they only charged him for the "new PD4600 unit"; around $300, I believe. You can do this yourself if your "kind of handy"? I installed a different model, the Boondocker, but the website at "bestconverter.com" shows both Boondocker and the PD4600 models with installation pictures. Also, the PD4600 is only $183.00 and the Boondocker around $170.00 on this site... http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4635V...l#.WjADpmeWxMt

As noted in several threads where the batteries are suspect as being bad, the "original equipment" converter'salso are suspect; they were single stage units without sensing circuitry for the batteries...they can easily overcook your battery if your not monitoring, while plugged in. AS now installs a new multi-stage converter in the 2018 models.

Many of us have moved to the newer 4 stage converters to be safe. I think until you replace your converter and eliminate that key part of the puzzle, you will be chasing your tail on this one....my 2 cents.

[WhereStream]

I saw on Airstream's web site that the 2018 models come with a new kind of converter, at the request, Airstream says, of the Airstream community, or something like that.

Anyone know what kind of converter that might be, please let me know.

If mine is bad, it is likely the dealer will want to plug in one of Airstream's new models (my 2017 trailer is still under warranty).

If the new converter is held in low regard by the aluminum cognoscenti, or is of uncertain merit, I will argue for a different brand.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

I saw on Airstream's web site that the 2018 models come with a new kind of converter, at the request, Airstream says, of the Airstream community, or something like that.

Anyone know what kind of converter that might be, please let me know.

If mine is bad, it is likely the dealer will want to plug in one of Airstream's new models (my 2017 trailer is still under warranty).

If the new converter is held in low regard by the aluminum cognoscenti, or is of uncertain merit, I will argue for a different brand.

The 30A model they were using was Paralex 8355B; the 50A was a Paralex 5355B. In the 18' models, they are installing a WF8955EC 30A; and a WF9855 for the 50A.

I was told, if the dealer certifies you have a bad converter, AS will work with them to apply their cost of the original converter, toward an upgrade. Key here is, you need to get your dealer talking with AS on this one....lots of hassle. As I said, I replaced mine myself without too much trouble. My friend worked with his AS dealer and was charged only for the new Progressive Dynamics converter; around $300 total...(however, the Converter can be purchased from several suppliers for less then $200, if you want to do it yourself. My Boondocker 4 stage converter was $160, I believe.)

[WhereStream]

Finally got a chance to put the new Interstate batteries back in the box.

Showing a little under 14 volts (per my voltmeter).

I'll plug in the Airstream and turn on the "Use" switch and see what volts are in action later today.

In the meantime, what is good to use on the battery-cable connections to protect them? Auto-parts stores sell little packs of pinkish goop to spread on the connections. Not sure what that stuff is.

Will regular bearing grease do the job?

[Mattirs]

What has worked for me is the red spray and the felt rings you can buy in the battery area. Bulbs & Batteries has it for about $6. Remember you only need one set of the felt rings. I can send you my spare set. Lol

[UncleBad]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

In the meantime, what is good to use on the battery-cable connections to protect them?

I have a buddy that uses simple Vaseline on the terminals to stop corrosion. Says it works well and is cheap alternative.

I have yet to give it a try but will soon.

[WhereStream]

Vaseline on the terminals ... interesting idea, cheap, and I wouldn't have to run to Dave's Auto Parts ...

Battery update: Plugged in the Airstream, pushed "Use" on the battery relay button ... got 14 volts on the batteries (maybe a little more, 14.2 or so).

That looks good.

Still want to hook up the battery tender ... as soon as I can find where I put it!

[rmkrum]

Just remember when using any product on battery terminals: clean the contacting surfaces thoroughly. Put them together DRY and properly torqued. THEN put the anti-corrosion treatment on the terminals and wire ends. Cover the metal parts completely with your treatment of choice. Small acid brush or spray to get into all the gaps....

Vaseline, grease, or the red spray (contains wax and solvent that evaporates) will seal out the minor acid leaks that cause corrosion. The felt battery washers also seem to help.

It’s also a good idea to use Marine-grade shrink tuning with the glue inside to seal the terminal lugs to the wire. Use closed-end tinned lugs as well. I don’t think Airstream does this on their battery cables, and that’s why I’m getting green (copper sulphate, etc.) corrosion fuzz on my cable ends. It’s on my list to correct this.