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Old 08-03-2010, 12:47 PM   #1
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Batteries Dead after 3 weeks. Why?

Okay it could have been me....I can't promise I didn't put my switch on store. But....is there anything that runs on the battery even if the switch is on store? I'm thinking of the carbon monoxide detector for instance?

It's irritating when the batteries go so dead that I can't charge it by plugging in the trailer. Now I have to get the charger out and connect up the batteries to get enough of a charge to allow the master switch to work. Maybe I need new batteries -- how do I tell?

What I'm wondering if I really need another switch on the batteries themselves to completely isolate them when I "store" the unit at home.

If two batteries are good and fully charged when parked in warm weather, how long should those batteries still have enough power to at least run the use/store switch?
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:15 PM   #2
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There are parasitic draws even if the RV is placed into store mode. LP detector and radio come to mind as two culprits.
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:42 PM   #3
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"Parked in warm weather" in Texas? August 1st saw 102F in Austin - if the batteries were anywhere near sunshine heating the self-discharge rate of the battery might've reached 2% state-of-charge (SOC) per day.

The only way to give unattended batteries the best chance is removal to a cool place - or a temperature compensated solar battery maintainer...
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:52 PM   #4
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Are these new batteries? If not, how old are they, please?
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:08 PM   #5
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Definitely Used

No the batteries are not new. Probably 3 1/2 years old. How long do you push your battery usage?
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie View Post
There are parasitic draws even if the RV is placed into store mode. LP detector and radio come to mind as two culprits.
Not being sure exactly how the store mode switch was set up -and noting a spark when connecting batteries even in store mode, indicating current flow, I replaced the battery clamps on my storage batteries with the typ that have a quick disconnect knob. Loosening the knob on each batter, ensures that the batteries are truly off line, takes only a few seconds to do.

This way, since my batteries are AGM and are supposed to have minimal self-discharge, if we will be using the trailer again within a month or two I just leave them in the trailer.

Otherwise, I bring them home so I can freshen their charge now and then

Works well for me so far, and the quick disconnect type clamps were only about $5 each at Harbor Freight.

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Old 08-03-2010, 03:14 PM   #7
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The best way to eliminate your batteries going dead from parasitic loads is to install a battery isolation switch (or manually disconnect the battery cables). There are several devices described on this site. We use a Perko switch that allows you to use Battery A, Battery B, Both or Off. No problems, after we installed this switch. Price was about $30-35, as I recall.

Link to previous post on this subject: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f335...ght-63577.html
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:16 PM   #8
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Lots of things draw some current if you did not use the disconnect.

To name a few;

Frig 12VDC control board
water pump if pressure goes down
hot water heater control board
electric steps control board
carbon monoxide detector
Converter
Inverter
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:17 PM   #9
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Batteries discharge just sitting, especially in weather and on concrete.
Batteries discharge when you have items that have a memory, radio, dash clock, alarm, in my dodge there is also a power hungry gremlin that I starve by lifting the kill battery blade switch.
Battery manufacturers give specifics on their batteries for self discharge but as Aage asked how old being that the amount of charge in the batteries is dependent on it's age.
This post reminded me that I needed to change to the other battery that I have on charger right now, I checked hydrometer and it showed fair, added water and charger as adding water usually lowers battery voltage. Also put on a battery minder to bring them back to the good region with periodic surges it gives, it will break up the surface oxidation.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:48 PM   #10
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A battery in good condition will hold a charge for months. I had a similar problem with my 2009 27 FB. I tried to trace out the drain and think it was the gas detector among possible other things. Now I just disconnect the negative terminal at the battery and no longer have a problem. Disconnecting the negative terminal greatly reduces the chance of a short with your tools.
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:46 PM   #11
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Battery minder with a low trickle charge keeps them maintained. Hook up umbilical day before you're ready to travel to cool fridge and bring'em up to full charge. No problems...
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:20 PM   #12
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Also, propane detector and subwoofer drain battery.

Do they have enough water in them? Have you checked the cells with a tester?

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Old 08-05-2010, 08:10 PM   #13
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Why dont you just take out the batteries and go get them load tested, then you will know their condition.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Batteries discharge just sitting, especially...on concrete....
This one got fixed a few years back...

Storing Batteries
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