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TankerIP · 08-03-2010, 11:47 AM

Okay it could have been me....I can't promise I didn't put my switch on store. But....is there anything that runs on the battery even if the switch is on store? I'm thinking of the carbon monoxide detector for instance?

It's irritating when the batteries go so dead that I can't charge it by plugging in the trailer. Now I have to get the charger out and connect up the batteries to get enough of a charge to allow the master switch to work. Maybe I need new batteries -- how do I tell?

What I'm wondering if I really need another switch on the batteries themselves to completely isolate them when I "store" the unit at home.

If two batteries are good and fully charged when parked in warm weather, how long should those batteries still have enough power to at least run the use/store switch?

Silvertwinkie · 08-03-2010, 12:15 PM

There are parasitic draws even if the RV is placed into store mode. LP detector and radio come to mind as two culprits.

Wabbiteer · 08-03-2010, 12:42 PM

"Parked in warm weather" in Texas? August 1st saw 102F in Austin - if the batteries were anywhere near sunshine heating the self-discharge rate of the battery might've reached 2% state-of-charge (SOC) per day.

The only way to give unattended batteries the best chance is removal to a cool place - or a temperature compensated solar battery maintainer...

Aage · 08-03-2010, 12:52 PM

Are these new batteries? If not, how old are they, please?

TankerIP · 08-03-2010, 02:08 PM

No the batteries are not new. Probably 3 1/2 years old. How long do you push your battery usage?

Wingeezer · 08-03-2010, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie

There are parasitic draws even if the RV is placed into store mode. LP detector and radio come to mind as two culprits.

Not being sure exactly how the store mode switch was set up -and noting a spark when connecting batteries even in store mode, indicating current flow, I replaced the battery clamps on my storage batteries with the typ that have a quick disconnect knob. Loosening the knob on each batter, ensures that the batteries are truly off line, takes only a few seconds to do.

This way, since my batteries are AGM and are supposed to have minimal self-discharge, if we will be using the trailer again within a month or two I just leave them in the trailer.

Otherwise, I bring them home so I can freshen their charge now and then

Works well for me so far, and the quick disconnect type clamps were only about $5 each at Harbor Freight.

Brian

Phoenix · 08-03-2010, 02:14 PM

The best way to eliminate your batteries going dead from parasitic loads is to install a battery isolation switch (or manually disconnect the battery cables). There are several devices described on this site. We use a Perko switch that allows you to use Battery A, Battery B, Both or Off. No problems, after we installed this switch. Price was about $30-35, as I recall.

Link to previous post on this subject: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f335...ght-63577.html

garry · 08-03-2010, 02:16 PM

Lots of things draw some current if you did not use the disconnect.

To name a few;

Frig 12VDC control board
water pump if pressure goes down
hot water heater control board
electric steps control board
carbon monoxide detector
Converter
Inverter

DaveFL · 08-03-2010, 02:17 PM

Batteries discharge just sitting, especially in weather and on concrete.
Batteries discharge when you have items that have a memory, radio, dash clock, alarm, in my dodge there is also a power hungry gremlin that I starve by lifting the kill battery blade switch.
Battery manufacturers give specifics on their batteries for self discharge but as Aage asked how old being that the amount of charge in the batteries is dependent on it's age.
This post reminded me that I needed to change to the other battery that I have on charger right now, I checked hydrometer and it showed fair, added water and charger as adding water usually lowers battery voltage. Also put on a battery minder to bring them back to the good region with periodic surges it gives, it will break up the surface oxidation.

hhendrix · 08-03-2010, 02:48 PM

A battery in good condition will hold a charge for months. I had a similar problem with my 2009 27 FB. I tried to trace out the drain and think it was the gas detector among possible other things. Now I just disconnect the negative terminal at the battery and no longer have a problem. Disconnecting the negative terminal greatly reduces the chance of a short with your tools.

mojo · 08-03-2010, 05:46 PM

Battery minder with a low trickle charge keeps them maintained. Hook up umbilical day before you're ready to travel to cool fridge and bring'em up to full charge. No problems...

Gene · 08-03-2010, 06:20 PM

Also, propane detector and subwoofer drain battery.

Do they have enough water in them? Have you checked the cells with a tester?

Gene

r carl · 08-05-2010, 07:10 PM

Why dont you just take out the batteries and go get them load tested, then you will know their condition.

HiHoAgRV · 08-05-2010, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveFL

Batteries discharge just sitting, especially...on concrete....

This one got fixed a few years back...

Storing Batteries

hhendrix · 08-11-2010, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Also, propane detector and subwoofer drain battery.

Do they have enough water in them? Have you checked the cells with a tester?

Gene

Yes they do. I just went thru my panel and discovered that even if you pull all the fuses and turn the switch to the store mode, the LP detector is always on. It draws 70 mA and I'm trying to figure out how long it would take to draw down both batteries, but I'm guessing 3 weeks could be enough.

HiHoAgRV · 08-11-2010, 06:26 PM

Without getting into the shades of gray...

70mA = .07 Amps X 24 Hours a day = 1.68 Amp Hours (per day)

1.68 AH/day X 21 days = 35 AH.

A typical group 24 battery is good for 85 AH so thats a good portion of your draw but I suspect the batteries are starting to self drain and it time for a replacement...

Are the batteries 'bulged'?

2dabeach · 08-11-2010, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TankerIP

Okay it could have been me....I can't promise I didn't put my switch on store. But....is there anything that runs on the battery even if the switch is on store? I'm thinking of the carbon monoxide detector for instance?

It's irritating when the batteries go so dead that I can't charge it by plugging in the trailer. Now I have to get the charger out and connect up the batteries to get enough of a charge to allow the master switch to work. Maybe I need new batteries -- how do I tell?

What I'm wondering if I really need another switch on the batteries themselves to completely isolate them when I "store" the unit at home.

If two batteries are good and fully charged when parked in warm weather, how long should those batteries still have enough power to at least run the use/store switch?

TankerIP.....I had the same problem with my 2007 Safari. I installed a switch in the 12v line that supplies the propane detector and I shut it off when the trailer is not in use. I have not had a problem with batteries discharging while the trailer is in storage since I installed the switch.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 08-11-2010, 10:34 PM

Hi, at about 3 1/2 to 4 years old my original batteries went bad. I figured that is normal life for them. I always switch mine to store mode and charge them once a month. Mine are nowhere near dead when I do the monthly charge on them and I do it randomly, not on an exacting schedule.

hhendrix · 08-12-2010, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Without getting into the shades of gray...

70mA = .07 Amps X 24 Hours a day = 1.68 Amp Hours (per day)

1.68 AH/day X 21 days = 35 AH.

A typical group 24 battery is good for 85 AH so thats a good portion of your draw but I suspect the batteries are starting to self drain and it time for a replacement...

Are the batteries 'bulged'?

Sorry, I wasn't very clear. When my batteries drained, it was in the store mode and something else (maybe the subwoofer) in addition to the LP detector may have been draining the batteries. The LP detector is not run thru the fuse box so there is no way to turn it off, even in the "store mode." AS won't sell a wiring diagram, so I can't figure out what else is draining the batteries, which are only about a year old. If I disconnect the negative terminal at the battery, the will hold their charge for a long time. I've tried using an amp meter (I have a very good one that can measure micro amps) but unable to get any reading at all for current draw. If the LP detector is always connected and not run thru the fuse panel, what else is?

hhendrix · 08-12-2010, 11:11 AM

BTW, when I pulled all the fuses I tested each fuse terminal for voltage. Strangely one was showing 12 volts on the fused side of the terminal. The subwoofer is on that circuit, so I suspect a capacitor was holding a charge. It eventually drained off to zero.