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Old 05-17-2016, 08:18 PM   #29
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From my 2014 FC owners manual:

Battery Disconnect Switch

The disconnect switch is used to separate the batteries from the 12-volt distribution panel and converter charging system.

When the switch is turned to USE (on) and the trailer is plugged into a 110-volt shoreline, the 12-volt distribution panel will receive power from the converter and the batteries will be charged through the converter charging system.

When the switch is turned to STORE (off) and the trailer is plugged into a 110-volt shoreline, the 12- volt distribution panel will still receive power from the converter, but the batteries are disconnected from the system. The batteries will not be drained with the switch in the store position. The converter will not charge the batteries with the switch in this position.

The charge in the 12-volt batteries is replenished, when towing, from the tow vehicle alternator through the 7-way cord. This charge will flow to the batteries regardless of the battery disconnect switch position. Likewise, if on or off, the solar panel is still charging the batteries.
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:31 PM   #30
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Well I mean hey - I'm not the OP but I have rather enjoyed "all the comments"

Total nerd I guess that enjoys relative tangents.

Often when something comes up somewhat tangentially relevant it may get attention....arguably this is good
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:43 AM   #31
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We've only had our 2016 FC Twin for three months and had a big learning curve -- we never had an RV before, so this post, and all its comments, was most appreciated as we never paid attention to the STORE/USE panel (I remember it being mentioned at the walk-through, but its importance was not nearly stressed enough, based on what I'm reading here). Interestingly, this topic had first caught my eye a few days earlier when the exact same topic was addressed in the Airstream Life magazine that we just started receiving (which I love, by the way, reading cover to cover - even the ads).


Anyway, we immediately went out to check our battery since we have been keeping our "Marilyn" plugged into shore power continuously since we got it. About 2/3 of the cells were slightly low in water (only a smidge) and we refilled them. We also immediately put the setting on "STORE".

So I am curious why someone else's AS went dry after only two weeks?
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Old 05-20-2016, 09:48 AM   #32
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I swapped out the OEM converter for the Progressive Dynamics PD-4655. I think that's one of the more popular converters recommended here. IOTA is another quality brand.

I'm pretty sure the inverter has a direct connection to the battery, those are some pretty thick cables. If you don't disconnect the battery cables when you are working with the inverter you stand a good chance of blowing a very expensive fuse, about $50 of fuse. [Ask me how I know. ]

If you're going to work on the 12v system, disconnect the battery grounds. It takes only a minute, better safe than sorry.
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Old 05-20-2016, 11:53 AM   #33
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One of the things I remember reading on an old thread, is that if your store switch turned to off only separates the battery from charge, is that the converter output is technically "hotter" since there is no load being placed on it to maintain batteries. Supposedly this hotter power can shorten the life of 12 volt appliance and lights. Has any ever done any voltage checking to see if the voltage is higher to the 12 volt lights or appliances if the disconnect switch is in the off position and if that isolates the battery charging circuit? Somehow I remember some warnings about not plugging the trailer into shore power with the switch turned to the off position.

I know that I used to bring the trailer home for a week or two prior to a trip and I'd leave the trailer plugged in. Since my batteries are stored behind doors on my Classic and are a pain to pull out, I usually only checked the fluid level once a year. After ruining some batteries I refrain from plugging in more that 24 hours when the trailer is home prior to a trip. I've not seen any excessive fluid loss since doing that.

Jack
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:48 PM   #34
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Well - now I'm confused

I can say this

If I am not plugged to shore power at all - and I switch to "store" - all 12v stuff goes off - as such all is off except I think a few items like the propane detector (as I recall reading).

So not sure why that would make converter output "hotter"?
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:50 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by richw46 View Post
I swapped out the OEM converter for the Progressive Dynamics PD-4655. I think that's one of the more popular converters recommended here. IOTA is another quality brand.

I'm pretty sure the inverter has a direct connection to the battery, those are some pretty thick cables. If you don't disconnect the battery cables when you are working with the inverter you stand a good chance of blowing a very expensive fuse, about $50 of fuse. [Ask me how I know. ]

If you're going to work on the 12v system, disconnect the battery grounds. It takes only a minute, better safe than sorry.

Welcome rich - I feel your struggle - 2.5 years in for me as a total newb - good luck. Folks on here will help a great deal!
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:29 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by PharmGeek View Post
Welcome rich - I feel your struggle - 2.5 years in for me as a total newb - good luck. Folks on here will help a great deal!
The people I bought my AS from had plugged in a vacuum cleaner to the inverter. She said she thought she had burned up the inverter because the vacuum ran for only a few seconds.

When I got it home I took it out of the AS, opened it up and found 2 blown 35 amp fuses. I couldn't find 35 (I have now) so I put in a couple of 30 amp. When I was installing it back in the AS I touched the uncovered ground (not the 12v ground wire) to the 12v hot. The spark was less than if I had walked across the carpet and touched an iron railing, it was just the tiniest of sparks. Nevertheless, the in-line fuse was blown. I searched long and hard but finally found one for $30 plus shipping.

I honestly can't remember if the switch was in Store or not, but anytime I work on anything other than the lights, I take the ground wire off the battery.

Since then, extra extra caution when doing anything electrical. Yes, I've received a lot of help here, it's a truly marvelous forum.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:22 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek View Post
Well - now I'm confused

I can say this

If I am not plugged to shore power at all - and I switch to "store" - all 12v stuff goes off - as such all is off except I think a few items like the propane detector (as I recall reading).

So not sure why that would make converter output "hotter"?
I've been here since the forum started and there have been a lot of posts relative to this topic. This might have been a trait of the older converters that may be not the level of sophistication of more modern converters. Obviously the output of the converter has to be able to handle the max load of the 12 volt appliances and the charge levels required by battery(ies). Whether the converter has the ability to step the voltage up and down is beyond my knowledge. Again it is possible, especially on the older trailers that the units were designed to output power at a fixed level which may have led to a warning to not use the unit without the batteries attached.

Jack
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Old 05-20-2016, 07:18 PM   #38
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My trailer seems to work like Pharmgeeks. When my switch is in the store position nothing works inside the trailer except the propane detector. An interesting observation is that if I plug into shore power the use/store switch turns itself on and glows red. It worked this way both before I reached the converter/charger and after. So I got that going for me.

Mike
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Old 05-20-2016, 07:23 PM   #39
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This is a bit strange (but I have a simple mind) Why would both batteries go dry during a 10 day trip when always on shore power? We have not dry camped yet.

Bad converter/charger?
Wondering if you have had any feedback from your dealer or service center, on whether your charger/converter was bad, or any other cause for the dry batteries?

Thanks,

Peter
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Old 05-20-2016, 07:38 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera View Post
I've been here since the forum started and there have been a lot of posts relative to this topic. This might have been a trait of the older converters that may be not the level of sophistication of more modern converters. Obviously the output of the converter has to be able to handle the max load of the 12 volt appliances and the charge levels required by battery(ies). Whether the converter has the ability to step the voltage up and down is beyond my knowledge. Again it is possible, especially on the older trailers that the units were designed to output power at a fixed level which may have led to a warning to not use the unit without the batteries attached.



Jack

Jack,

The old style ferro-resonant type converters like the Univolt and Triad-Utrad did have a significantly higher DC output than today's modern switch mode converters. This absolutely required a battery to be connected to the converter's output to act as a DC voltage filter do that you wouldn't blow out all of your DC loads that operated well below 14 VDC.

The newer converters (even the OEM Parallax battery burner) can be used with no battery in the DC circuit, as the output voltage is rarely above 14.2 VDC (and in the case of the Parallax, a continual 13.6 VDC) and all of the recipients of that DC voltage are completely tolerant of that voltage level.


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Old 05-20-2016, 08:07 PM   #41
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Thanks Lew. I had a feeling that it was a matter of the older converters that had the battery connection requirement.

Jack
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:38 PM   #42
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Ok - that clarifies thanks lew!

Ditch the stock parallax! Ugh!
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