Batteries

[69amd46]

Just purchased a 2006 Airstream classic with two solar panels and in need of two batteries. Can anyone suggest the type of batteries we should buy.
Why Can't we use a standard RV battery?

[DaveP]

Depends on what type of camping you will be doing. Lots of dry camping (no electrical hook ups), get AGM or lithium batteries which are more expensive. If you are going to go mostly to full-hookup camps, get regular flooded batteries. Lots of information on this site for both strategies.

[AtomicNo13]

Yes a simple deep cycle battery can and will work.
The solar junkies will tell you to get a very expensive lithium battery. Just because you have solar panels does not mean you have to go crazy... Those everstart $100 deep cycles from Walmart Mart can faithfully serve you for a half decade or longer. Before my full blown solar self suffiency, I had 2 of those things work well for 9 abusive years. Can't say that about some of the crazy batteries out there now!
Let the haters flame.....

[uncle_bob]

Hi

How you use the batteries and what you expect out of them matters a lot. Lightly used with very low expectations (and some luck), just about any battery will last a long time. Heavily used with high expectations (and maybe not much luck), you might get a few months out of the same batteries.

How do you plan to use your trailer? How lucky do you feel?

Bob

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by 69amd46

Just purchased a 2006 Airstream classic with two solar panels and in need of two batteries. Can anyone suggest the type of batteries we should buy.
Why Can't we use a standard RV battery?

Who said you couldn't use a "standard" RV battery? Not sure what is mean't by standard but you should use a deep cycle. RV and Marine are the same except marketing as long as they are deep cycle. I would stay away from hybrids or starting batteries since they will not last nearly as long if you cycle/discharge them. Then it comes to whether you want flooded lead acid, AGM, or lithium.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Another question to the OP - why are the existing batteries dead? Are they the original stock batteries? ( = they just wore out). Have they been replaced and then neglected?

Why ask?

Well, if they died because something else in the system it broken, it *might* be a good idea to fix that before you simply destroy a brand new set of batteries ......

Bob

[PKI]

A) replace with what is currently installed.
B) replace with Group 24 or 27 deep cycle wet cells
C) replace with 6 volt golf cart batteries
- takes a bit of wiring change
- takes a taller battery box

Now, since you don't know much about batteries - A) may be best.
The option B) is possibly the least expensive and worth considering.

If someone suggests Lithium - run away. When you know what they are talking about it's time to consider. We'll all use something like that in another five years, but not yet.

The 6 volt option C) may be your best option if an upgrade becomes required.

Why are batteries dead or wounded?

Wet cells and AGM can only be discharged to 50% capacity. If allowed to discharge below 12.2 volts (a temperature dependent value) their life (number of recharge cycles before they fail) will be degraded/reduced.

The Lithium and various similar technology can be charged faster and discharged lower with out significant damage but cost goes up quickly.

Parasitic loads come from the LPG monitors and other electronics. They are not turned off when the store/use switch is turned to the store position. Those loads can drive the charge level below 12.2 volts when the coach is stored with no charge capability. If the batteries are left connected to shore power when stored, the older converters can damage the cells with overcharge voltage.

Solar installations vary considerably with respect to the performance of the components, so you may choose to investigate the compatibility of each if you plan any changes.

Key to battery management is an accurate battery monitor, an efficient converter, an effective solar control and a disconnect switch to isolate parasitic loads during storage.

Now, the above is from a very limited understanding, but it gives you a starting point. Research the solar, battery, and converter threads to grow your knowledge. There are some very helpful experts who post and provide help. The blue search box at above right will get you the threads.

Good Luck with the research. Pat

[uncle_bob]

Hi

The idea that somehow 6V batteries are a wonderful thing to "upgrade" with pops up from time to time. Until there's some feed back from the OP, it's a bit early to start down the whole upgrade road..... ( = it *would* be nice to hear from the OP ...)

Bob

[TOPORANGER]

Help
I have been full timing in my 91 25foot Excella for 22 months now I have a good handle on how I use the rig
It’s mainly boondocking with occasional full hookups
I go out of my way to use as little 12v power as I can don’t watch TV and no unnecessary use of lights and use the water pump as little as possible

What I have
2 Interstate group 24 batteries mounted in two battery boxes that extend into the interior of trailer they will be 3 years old in a week or so
Parallax 7455 converter
An old Honda EX 650 generator ($100 yard sale find)
No Solar but I am ready to start building a system now

My current batteries don’t hold a charge well They will be discharged to 12v or under if I use the water pump to fill the toilet more than once at night
I’m limping along with the batteries while I research and learn I want to start with the foundation of the system before doing any panels but having a portable panel of a min of 100w is high on list
I like the Bogart Engineering battery monitor
Lithium batts are probably not in the equation at this time due to cost

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by TOPORANGER

Help
I have been full timing in my 91 25foot Excella for 22 months now I have a good handle on how I use the rig
It’s mainly boondocking with occasional full hookups
I go out of my way to use as little 12v power as I can don’t watch TV and no unnecessary use of lights and use the water pump as little as possible

What I have
2 Interstate group 24 batteries mounted in two battery boxes that extend into the interior of trailer they will be 3 years old in a week or so
Parallax 7455 converter
An old Honda EX 650 generator ($100 yard sale find)
No Solar but I am ready to start building a system now

My current batteries don’t hold a charge well They will be discharged to 12v or under if I use the water pump to fill the toilet more than once at night
I’m limping along with the batteries while I research and learn I want to start with the foundation of the system before doing any panels but having a portable panel of a min of 100w is high on list
I like the Bogart Engineering battery monitor
Lithium batts are probably not in the equation at this time due to cost

Couple of considerations; your Parallax 7455 is obsolete; single stage converters are a big cause of battery failing due to over-charging. The new multistage converters (4-stage) have better charging/maintenance capabilities. Several posts on the Forum on this.
Batteries- having gone thru the posts and having 4 AS's now, 2 brand new which had the "new Interestate's" go bad within a couple months of taking ownership, I am a believer in getting a better battery. The 6V Golf Cart line as discussed in several Forum articles, seems to be the best bang for the buck. AGM's are more money, and not sure worth the extra $$ but they are maintenance free...the wet cells require you to monitor and fill perhaps 1-2 times a year. Not a big deal to me. Also, install a mechanical kill switch on them so you can totally disconnect from any draw while storing your rig, if needed. The main thing I learned is the batteries and converter are your life blood....get it right.
As for solar, I have used the GoPower 80W portable folding solar panel now for 3 AS's, and I have had good luck. But, a backup generator is very handy! I have a 2000W Champion I take when in MT in the summer, and I also have a Champion 3400W Dual Fuel (I use propane) which runs my AC, for trips when I anticipate needing my AC and will be boondocking....
Good luck!

[Ray Eklund]

Keep the lower priced wet cell batteries. When they go bad, replace them. You can buy more new batteries over time than one pair of underused AGM's.

AGM batteries at a dealer are difficult to find. Mostly Marine applications and even Interstate Battery does not keep them on the shelf. (I know. Nearly impossible.)

If you plan to keep the trailer for twenty years... go for it. Lithium and light up your Solar Panel numbers on the roof.

The Sophisticated Lithium and Solar users are experts. We amateurs have to get by with what we understand. It works for me and so far have lived to make this post without anything other than what Costco batteries and a $115 Solar Panel keep us hanging onto some civility and comfort.

I still use my tongue to test 9 volt batteries. Why use a volt meter? You cannot do that with Lithium... batteries.

Consider this... if Lithium Batteries and Solar Panels were STANDARD on all Airstreams.... it would save us all a lot of time an effort. The reason they don't... may have something to the cost and Airstream knows what is best... for some of us.

[TOPORANGER]

Going with 6v wet cell golf cart batteries will most likely mean putting them in the trailer tongue box due to the height versus the existing battery boxes and the tongue box would have to be modified for height
That’s just a little bigger project very doable

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by 69amd46

. . .
Why Can't we use a standard RV battery?

You can.

Unless you have specialized needs, and the knowledge to know the differences in all the batteries, you are better off starting with standard 12-volt replacement batteries, while you learn the ropes IMO.

Welcome to the forum, and good luck!

Peter

[rmkrum]

Just an FYI, our golf cart batteries are on the tongue. Son replaced a standard battery box with a longer and taller molded plastic one that easily accommodates two GC-2 batteries lengthwise in the box. I'm mounting a battery cut-off switch on the front of the AS in an easily reached location under a lockable anti-tamper cover.

Cables and other wiring mated up easily with the original wiring. I did have to drill a couple 1/2" drainage holes in the box and fasten it in place with 1/4-20 stainless steel hardware instead of the crappy self-drilling screws it was originally put in with.

The drainage holes became an obvious issue when I had to flush and neutralize the spilled acid in the box when my one-stage charger boiled out a lot of acid. The gallon of water and baking soda I dumped in there foamed up nicely, then drained out super slowly. Not nice, but at least the spill was neutralized thoroughly.

I buy the flooded batteries from Sam's Club or Costco (have membership in both) which makes them easily available on the road if something takes one out. Someday when I retire and get rich (Ha!) I'll consider going to lithium packs...

[TOPORANGER]

Okay then
Just placed order with Randy at bestconverter for
Boondocker 1260c and the Bogart Engineering’s battery monitor kit

[marter]

Originally Posted by TOPORANGER

Going with 6v wet cell golf cart batteries will most likely mean putting them in the trailer tongue box due to the height versus the existing battery boxes and the tongue box would have to be modified for height
That’s just a little bigger project very doable

It's really quite easy to increase the height of the battery box, and cost effective vs replacing my 12v Interstates. See my posts in this thread. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...es-185216.html

Happy trails,
Mike

[NevadaGeo]

Here's some quick lessons I've learned.
1. Batteries aren't fully charged when you get them out of the store. I've found that out the hard way several times. Plug a new battery in, you think you've got enough charge for the night, in the morning stone dead and its, dead.
2. Battery lead science: Car batteries have thin lead plates, lots of them for lots of instant cranking power. That soft lead "recrystallizes" or something when you kill them dead to no voltage. They never come back to hardly any stamina power.
The heavy duty batteries have thicker but less plates, are a little better at reviving after you killed them.
Marine batteries have the thickest lead plates, take being killed dead to no voltage better than the other kinds but I don't think they like it either.
I'm beginning to believe it's easier to have one battery plugged into the trailer at a time because it's difficult to have two batteries of the same power, not fighting each other.

[DKB_SATX]

Interstate Group24 deep-cycles at Costco were $72 last week. Well under 1/2 the price of comparable AGMs that would fit in your battery boxes. I decided I'd stick with flooded batteries for another cycle.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by DKB_SATX

Interstate Group24 deep-cycles at Costco were $72 last week. Well under 1/2 the price of comparable AGMs that would fit in your battery boxes. I decided I'd stick with flooded batteries for another cycle.

Hi

Check your battery box and see if group 27's will fit in place of the group 24's. Sometimes they do and sometimes they don't. Oddly enough, when battery sales go on, the 27's generally go on sale at the same time as the 24's. The 27's have more capacity. Occasionally they aren't priced much (or any) higher than the 24's.

Bob

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Check your battery box and see if group 27's will fit in place of the group 24's. Sometimes they do and sometimes they don't. Oddly enough, when battery sales go on, the 27's generally go on sale at the same time as the 24's. The 27's have more capacity. Occasionally they aren't priced much (or any) higher than the 24's.

Bob

I'm pretty sure Group27s will fit in *MY* battery box if I remove the plastic tray at the bottom that's tailored for Group24s. I was answering TOPORANGER who has a '91 Excella with those small through-the-skin battery boxes, though I didn't quote him so in the context of the whole thread that's not clear.