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Jabreyd13 · 07-13-2009, 01:30 AM

OK, here's the situation.

All the lights in my rear bathroom quit working. I worked on that problem for 2 days. Part of the process of solving the problem was to refill my battery, as I've been hooked up generator power for 5 days. Solved the bathroom light problem and thought I was all good. Then 20 minutes later, all the lights in my galley won't work, nor any of the overheads, except the one in the bathroom, it works fine.

My control board says the battery is bad, although all cells have water. I have a gut feeling it's not a wiring issue, as I found no wiring problems in the bathroom. Also, the test lights on my control system in the cabinet are reading differently at different times.

Can a bad univolt cause no lights to work in various parts of the trailer?

Can it also cause batteries to fail very very quickly?

What do you guys think the problem is here?

I work in the oilfield and cannot take it in for a week and a half or so, as I am currently out on a rig, but when I do get done with the job, I have already purchased a new Inteli-Power 9245C to put in, and I plan on a new fuse panel as well, once I know what kind of fuse panel to purchase.

In the meantime, I need lights and don't know what to do.

SteveH · 07-13-2009, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Can a bad univolt cause no lights to work in various parts of the trailer?

If the univolt was bad, and the batteries were bad, you would have no lights anywhere in the trailer. The fact that you have some lights working, tells me it is most likely a fuse, or a problem on the 12volt distribution board (fuse board).

richinny · 07-13-2009, 06:45 AM

when the umbilical is hooked to the truck, do you have lights? (just don't leave it connected long because you'll kill the truck battery)

Jabreyd13 · 07-13-2009, 10:26 AM

Nothing changes when hooked up to my truck, it is the same as just being plugged in the the generator. What about the fuses between the batteries and the univolt?

ticki2 · 07-13-2009, 10:37 AM

If the fuse between the univolt and battery were no good you would not have any 12v even in the bath. Check the fuse panel itself and see if you are getting power accross the fuse . Sometimes the fuse holders become loose or corroded. Also check for bad ground at the light fixtures , and/or bad univolt ground.

richinny · 07-13-2009, 10:46 AM

jab, i have been reading your posts elsewhere. you've got a few things going on.

first) have the battery charged and tested at a auto parts store or service shop. you need to start and make sure the battery is ok.

second) if even with the umbilical providing power, you have the same problems, you need to verify you're actually getting power from the cord to the trailer.

third) the battery voltage should match closely, the voltage at the devices used.

fourth) you may have a bad ground somewhere.

start at the battery and check the readings until they are different. part of your lighting issues might be a bad ground, bad switch, bad connection or a short.

richinny · 07-13-2009, 11:08 AM

please save me from reading all your posts again. does the univolt hum? they are known for their noticeable hum when you're trying to sleep. do you know what a GFCI circuit breaker is? you may need to check to see if the univolt is tripping that while on the generator.

Jabreyd13 · 07-13-2009, 02:29 PM

Thanks Richinny for your help. Yes, my univolt does hum, not loudly at all though, and yes I do know what a Ground Fault Breaker is. No, mine is not tripping or acting up at all. All of my AC power stuff is good. My 12V system is the only problem. Part of the problem, I think is the PO or the PO of the PO did some creative in line glass fuse holders in the 12V fuse panel that are related to the 5 circuits that involve the interior 12V system. I am thinking that these may be an issue, although they test out at 12V each. However, I've been reading that a fluke meter can lie about the voltage because it doesn't actually load the circuit when you test, and that when an actual load is put on the system that's when the issue can happen. Not sure of the validity of this argument, as I am not an experience electrician.

I guess I am going to see if my negative lead 50 amp fuses between my battery and the univolt are ok and go from there.

I need to know a model number for a new fuse panel so I can get rid of this outdated glass fuse system.

richinny · 07-13-2009, 03:45 PM

do a google search for "airforums.com univolt fuse panel"

you should find a few examples of what folks have used. are you no longer showing 9v in the trailer?

Jabreyd13 · 07-13-2009, 03:49 PM

no, now it is between 6 and 7.

richinny · 07-13-2009, 04:04 PM

ok, it looks like the battery is draining and not being charged. check those univolt fuses. i would guess that the lights that are working are getting dimmer.

ticki2 · 07-13-2009, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jabreyd13

OK, here's the situation.

All the lights in my rear bathroom quit working. I worked on that problem for 2 days. Part of the process of solving the problem was to refill my battery, as I've been hooked up generator power for 5 days. Solved the bathroom light problem and thought I was all good. Then 20 minutes later, all the lights in my galley won't work, nor any of the overheads, except the one in the bathroom, it works fine.
.

What else did you do to fix the bath lights?

Jabreyd13 · 07-13-2009, 05:16 PM

Not sure really. I took apart connections, cleaned them with contact cleaner, and put them back together, then tested the circuits one at a time and had 12Volts all the sudden. Then 20 minutes later my galley stopped working.

Lumatic · 07-13-2009, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jabreyd13

Not sure really. I took apart connections, cleaned them with contact cleaner, and put them back together, then tested the circuits one at a time and had 12Volts all the sudden. Then 20 minutes later my galley stopped working.

12v can do some wacky stuff when the system is not working right. I suspect the battery. Have you tried individually testing the battery cells and doing a load test on the battery? Reverse polarity on shore power can also cause strangeness.

Aage · 07-13-2009, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jabreyd13

I have already purchased a new Inteli-Power 9245C to put in, and I plan on a new fuse panel as well, once I know what kind of fuse panel to purchase.

This one looks nice (Out-of-doors Mart) 12-position one.

Although this one looks very much the same and yet it's a better price, 9-position.

Either of those vendors have good reputations, by the way

If you've just ordered the new Intellipower, you probably noticed that Bestconverter (another good vendor) has a selection, too, in the same price range.

I think even the 9 position would be plenty, can't recall how many you need though, but for what, $4 more you can get a 12 position, which might come in handy later...

Anyways, all three I've linked to here look like they come from the same (or very similar) supplier.

Keep digging, dude! You'll strike oil yet, you'll see.

Lumatic · 07-13-2009, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jabreyd13

I have already purchased a new Inteli-Power 9245C to put in, and I plan on a new fuse panel as well, once I know what kind of fuse panel to purchase

You can use the Univolt fuse panel if you wish. This will also keep your ammeter on your control panel working. The 9245 can be mounted piggyback on the Univolt chassis saving space. I have photos under my thread "Unintellipower"

Also, just because a Univolt does not hum does not mean it is not working (although most do). New Univolts did not hum, or at least to the degree old ones do. The reason they hum is the windings need to be repotted.

SteveH · 07-13-2009, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jabreyd13

Not sure really. I took apart connections, cleaned them with contact cleaner, and put them back together, then tested the circuits one at a time and had 12Volts all the sudden. Then 20 minutes later my galley stopped working.

I had very simular problems with the 12volt system in my '75 23' Safari.

Like I advised in my first post in this thread, check the fuse panel board near the univolt. My problem was a main connector on the board (1/4" bolt feed thru) that connected the main battery supply from the univolt and the battery to the distribution (fuse) side of the board.

After I found it, I tightened the bolt, and to my knowledge, it's still working today (sold the trailer last year).

richinny · 07-13-2009, 05:44 PM

the fact that you had 12v at some point should mean that you have no "open" circuits. the stuff about a "no load" voltage is true. the hum is a good sign. my hunch at this point is a bad connection somewhere between the fuses and the converter. don't forget to check the grounds at the fuse panel.

ticki2 · 07-13-2009, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jabreyd13

Not sure really. I took apart connections, cleaned them with contact cleaner, and put them back together, then tested the circuits one at a time and had 12Volts all the sudden. Then 20 minutes later my galley stopped working.

This is a process of elimination , you need to start somewhere.
IMHO
1 diconnect batteries and just use the univolt.
2 check the batteries while disconnected and see if they have 12v
3 check the fuses and fuse holders at the fuse panel
4 check and clean connections at other lights and fans
5 let us know the results , we're all sort of shooting in the dark here , no pun intended.

If one or more of the cells in the batteries are shorted out it will rain havack with everything

Aage · 07-13-2009, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lumatic

You can use the Univolt fuse panel if you wish. This will also keep your ammeter on your control panel working.

His installation has a separate fuse panel, which isnot part of the Univolt. Plus, a PO made some "improvements" to it that look IMHO, dangerous.

He needs a new fuse panel.