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Old 07-13-2009, 06:26 PM   #15
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I have already purchased a new Inteli-Power 9245C to put in, and I plan on a new fuse panel as well, once I know what kind of fuse panel to purchase.
This one looks nice (Out-of-doors Mart) 12-position one.

Although this one looks very much the same and yet it's a better price, 9-position.

Either of those vendors have good reputations, by the way

If you've just ordered the new Intellipower, you probably noticed that Bestconverter (another good vendor) has a selection, too, in the same price range.

I think even the 9 position would be plenty, can't recall how many you need though, but for what, $4 more you can get a 12 position, which might come in handy later...

Anyways, all three I've linked to here look like they come from the same (or very similar) supplier.

Keep digging, dude! You'll strike oil yet, you'll see.
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Old 07-13-2009, 06:33 PM   #16
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I have already purchased a new Inteli-Power 9245C to put in, and I plan on a new fuse panel as well, once I know what kind of fuse panel to purchase
You can use the Univolt fuse panel if you wish. This will also keep your ammeter on your control panel working. The 9245 can be mounted piggyback on the Univolt chassis saving space. I have photos under my thread "Unintellipower"

Also, just because a Univolt does not hum does not mean it is not working (although most do). New Univolts did not hum, or at least to the degree old ones do. The reason they hum is the windings need to be repotted.
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Old 07-13-2009, 06:34 PM   #17
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Not sure really. I took apart connections, cleaned them with contact cleaner, and put them back together, then tested the circuits one at a time and had 12Volts all the sudden. Then 20 minutes later my galley stopped working.
I had very simular problems with the 12volt system in my '75 23' Safari.

Like I advised in my first post in this thread, check the fuse panel board near the univolt. My problem was a main connector on the board (1/4" bolt feed thru) that connected the main battery supply from the univolt and the battery to the distribution (fuse) side of the board.

After I found it, I tightened the bolt, and to my knowledge, it's still working today (sold the trailer last year).
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Old 07-13-2009, 06:44 PM   #18
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the fact that you had 12v at some point should mean that you have no "open" circuits. the stuff about a "no load" voltage is true. the hum is a good sign. my hunch at this point is a bad connection somewhere between the fuses and the converter. don't forget to check the grounds at the fuse panel.
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Old 07-13-2009, 07:55 PM   #19
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Not sure really. I took apart connections, cleaned them with contact cleaner, and put them back together, then tested the circuits one at a time and had 12Volts all the sudden. Then 20 minutes later my galley stopped working.
This is a process of elimination , you need to start somewhere.
IMHO
1 diconnect batteries and just use the univolt.
2 check the batteries while disconnected and see if they have 12v
3 check the fuses and fuse holders at the fuse panel
4 check and clean connections at other lights and fans
5 let us know the results , we're all sort of shooting in the dark here , no pun intended.

If one or more of the cells in the batteries are shorted out it will rain havack with everything
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Old 07-13-2009, 11:06 PM   #20
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You can use the Univolt fuse panel if you wish. This will also keep your ammeter on your control panel working.
His installation has a separate fuse panel, which isnot part of the Univolt. Plus, a PO made some "improvements" to it that look IMHO, dangerous.

He needs a new fuse panel.
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Old 07-13-2009, 11:33 PM   #21
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Dangerous, I agree, and bottom line, it doesn't work. Bad connections, all sorts of issues, I suppose.

Per the above recommendation, I have completely taken the batteries out of the equation. No batteries currently hooked up, only running of generator power. Tested both batteries, while disco'd, 8.6 on one, 10.7 on another. Going to leave them unhooked for now, and see if I can make it until I get done with this job to install my intellipower and new fuse box.

Will update with pics and info on how it goes, soon.

I want to sincerely thank everyone for their input and help on this and thru email, it's been great. Darkness isn't so scarey with others around.
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:19 AM   #22
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just use the computer screen for light!

read this post about grounding the univolt. i don't know if it pertains to your problems.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/show...97&postcount=7

with the batteries out, the lights that were working should still work off the univolt if it's putting out power. if you charge the batteries, they should give you light for a while. if you get no light from just the batteries (no generator) you have a wiring problem.

as ticki pointed out, there is a process to rule things out. you just have to follow the electrons!
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